Hedmann Elite Headers: Collector size make a difference?

[Surf Charger]

I have a 383 w/ 4-barral & mild cam. Looks like both of these headers will do fine. Just not sure whether to go with 3" collector on the Elites, or a 2 1/2" collector on the standards. I'd prefer to go with the Elites, but want to make sure I don't have too big of a collector (if it even matters).

Hedmann Elites (Part# 78038)
-3" collector
-1 3/4" tube diameter

vs.

Hedmann Standard (Part# 78076)
-2 1/2" collector
-1 3/4" tube diameter

[tufamc]

Beware..... Headman Elite's  FIT LIKE $HIT, never again.... from now on TTI's, total, I would have less money/time invested in my exhaust, if I had just got tti's, save your self the headache....

oh, they also capture the starter, mini starter required, also need to lift the driver side engine 2" every time you change a gasket, and just to even get the dam things in.....spark plugs ain't too bad to replace, and no burned plug wires, and i have the cheap Accels....

[tufamc]

oh ya, second photo, look at the front of the flange.....found out the hard way, that Headman did NOT do a complete weld on the flange to tube weld...see the black exhaust....grrrrrrrrrrr

[Surf Charger]

Ok so I guess I need to re-evaluate the Header market! I've had a lot of people tell me good things...but pictures are worth a thousand words. That is too bad.

thanks for the input! I really appreciate it.

OK ...suggestions on any other headers that are somewhat affordable?

[Musicman]

How the F*** did you 

Nevermind... I'm not even going to ask 

[Back N Black]

I know TTI is expensive, but TTI.

[Ghoste]

And collector size and tube size both make a big difference regardless of which brand you choose,

[Surf Charger]

And collector size and tube size both make a big difference regardless of which brand you choose,

Any tips on this regarding tube and collector size? I have a 383 w/ mild cam and 4-barral carb. Will a 3" collector w/ 1 3/4 tube diameter suffice?

also looking for cheapest place to buy TTI headers?

[HPP]

Dougs is another decent option. Price is only marginally better than TTI, but with headers, you really get what you pay for.

[elacruze]

Dougs is another decent option. Price is only marginally better than TTI, but with headers, you really get what you pay for.

Ain't that the truth.

IIRC my Hooker Super Comps 2" were something like $350 in 1980-2. That was about as much as you could spend then, unless you bought hand-built customs. I still have the same set on the car, and although they make contact in a half-dozen places, I didn't have to bash clearance anywhere and it's possible to use them with a stock starter (tho you need a mini-starter to change it without loosening the headers)

If I ever changed them, I would not consider anything except TTI. A hundred or two is a small price to pay for the fit and quality-ask yourself next time you're greasy, sweaty, with blood blisters and scratched paint from fighting with a cheap set how much you'd pay to have it go smoothly.

On top of that, TTI has matching exhaust. Mating my TTI tailpipes to my Hooker headers was an expensive hidden cost-I'd have come out the same or better if I'd just replaced the Hookers with TTI anyway.

[Budnicks]

TTI's #383178 or #383134 for sure are great fits 1-7/8" & 1-3/4" tubes respectively, for any B-Body or Chrysler/Mopar there are also Schumacher Creative Services has some Tri-Ys that are really good also, Mopar specific specialists, in engine swaps & header options for around the same type of pricing $691-$800... neither is very cheap, both have good fit, no captured starter or heat sink problems...

[Surf Charger]

TTI's #383178 or #383134 for sure are great fits 1-7/8" & 1-3/4" tubes respectively, for any B-Body or Chrysler/Mopar there are also Schumacher Creative Services has some Tri-Ys that are really good also, Mopar specific specialists, in engine swaps & header options for around the same type of pricing $691-$800... neither is very cheap, both have good fit, no captured starter or heat sink problems...

Wow....I like those Schumacher headers. How come I do not see anyone on the forum with those? They look great. Like the tri-Y...seems to save a lot of space.

Anyone here have those? Opinions?

[Chryco Psycho]

the tri Y fit ok but do not flow much better than the iron manifolds , I know they will cost you power over a "good " header
Add me to the list Dougs or TTI only , long run it will save you money on burn wires & frustration

[BSB67]

TTI's #383178 or #383134 for sure are great fits 1-7/8" & 1-3/4" tubes respectively, for any B-Body or Chrysler/Mopar there are also Schumacher Creative Services has some Tri-Ys that are really good also, Mopar specific specialists, in engine swaps & header options for around the same type of pricing $691-$800... neither is very cheap, both have good fit, no captured starter or heat sink problems...

Wow....I like those Schumacher headers. How come I do not see anyone on the forum with those? They look great. Like the tri-Y...seems to save a lot of space.

Anyone here have those? Opinions?

I would seriously consider these for your application.  There are guys running in the 10s with these headers.  Probably not the best in a 10 sec car application, but way more than adequate for your application, IMO.

[Budnicks]

TTI's #383178 or #383134 for sure are great fits 1-7/8" & 1-3/4" tubes respectively, for any B-Body or Chrysler/Mopar there are also Schumacher Creative Services has some Tri-Ys that are really good also, Mopar specific specialists, in engine swaps & header options for around the same type of pricing $691-$800... neither is very cheap, both have good fit, no captured starter or heat sink problems...

Wow....I like those Schumacher headers. How come I do not see anyone on the forum with those? They look great. Like the tri-Y...seems to save a lot of space.

Anyone here have those? Opinions?

I don't know why... It's just a well kept secret I guess, they also make more than just Tri-Y's for Big Block & Small Block Mopars... LOL.... They will flow much better than any stock manifolds, no reversion like the stock cast iron manifolds, very little, if any back pressure like the stock cast iron manifolds, especially in the lower RPM's, they will work well, mainly on engines that aren't intended on being all out race high RPM engines, maybe, I haven't done a side by side comparison on them !!!  You know, but most people are like sheep, follow the heard, that seem to follow trends maybe "I don't really know why",  they tend to buy what ever makes the most power at the race track "with open headers" on the track/dyno, they read some were, instead of what fits & works well with their specific combo & intended use maybe....  You tell me... Ha Ha Ha...   There's more than 1 way to skin a cat so to speak... The TTI's are great you can't go wrong there, there is other options out there though... "Just my opinion" & you know what they say about that stuff...

[randy73]

Beware..... Headman Elite's  FIT LIKE $HIT, never again.... from now on TTI's, total, I would have less money/time invested in my exhaust, if I had just got tti's, save your self the headache....

oh, they also capture the starter, mini starter required, also need to lift the driver side engine 2" every time you change a gasket, and just to even get the dam things in.....spark plugs ain't too bad to replace, and no burned plug wires, and i have the cheap Accels....

Have Hedman on my 70 383 and they fit perfectly, sure you didn't get a set from another year?

[tufamc]

Beware..... Headman Elite's  FIT LIKE $HIT, never again.... from now on TTI's, total, I would have less money/time invested in my exhaust, if I had just got tti's, save your self the headache....

oh, they also capture the starter, mini starter required, also need to lift the driver side engine 2" every time you change a gasket, and just to even get the dam things in.....spark plugs ain't too bad to replace, and no burned plug wires, and i have the cheap Accels....

Have Hedman on my 70 383 and they fit perfectly, sure you didn't get a set from another year?

Yup, I have the right one's, tho mine are the 78036's, not the 78038', only difference is the 36's are Ceramic coated, the 38's are Thermal coated....you have power steering??....that is what made mine fit like crap, also on the passanger side I had to ding the tube by the transmission pan rail, otherwise it would have hit there too.....

[471_Magnum]

Here's the thing about the fit on Hedmans, and others for that matter.

Some fit. Some don't. They're inconsistently manufactured.

I installed a set of Hedman Elites on a 383 71 Roadrunner. Had to ding them in a few spots, but for the price, I couldn't complain. Plus, they are designed fit 440s, so the height is a little bit off contributing to the fit issues.

I've heard the same issues on Hooker Competition headers. Some have claimed they bolt right up with with no dinging. Others give up on them they fit so bad.

TTi's and Doug's fit consistantly better, although you can find issues with of those as well.

[Surf Charger]

So basically what I'm gathering from the majority out there is the following:

-TTI Headers are the best (mainly for fitting consistency)
-TTI exhaust is great with an x-pipe and pay extra to have them go ahead and use Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers

[elacruze]

The Schumacher headers will probably have better off-peak drivability, at least that's my experience with Tri-Y headers on motorcycles. They will not make as much peak hp. On a mild combination, it's probably not an important loss. However, consider that with TTI the rest of the exhaust is a bolt-on, with Schumacher you'll still have to pay somebody to mate them to the tailpipes.

[firefighter3931]

On a long tube header the collector sizing definately makes a difference. For a mild build a 1 3/4in primary tube & 3in collector is ideal.  

I had a set of the 78038 headers and they fit fine with a 440. These are generic headers designed for both B and RB engines so i can see some potential issues when installing them on a low-deck (B) engine.

A set of headers designed specificly for a 383-400 would be a better choice.  


Ron

[projectanimal]

I JUST went through the same issue.   Bought Hedman Hedders for my 70' with a 440 and power steering.  I ended up "modifying" them exactly like the above pictures and still had issues.   I called Hedman and they made me a new one claiming the wrong one may have been sent?     The second one fit like a glove with room between the steering box and pipes!      I learned that just because the box had the right part number, doesn't mean you have the correct header in the box!  I'll be finishing my exhaust this weekend so I can hopefully fire her up and see what shakes loose.   
I'm not looking for any crazy performance, but the previous owner had thrown some old headers with more dents in it than a golf ball.  so new seemed appropriate to go with the new Exhaust. 

[Budnicks]

I had a set of Hedman cheapo shorty style headers 1-3/4" tubes, 2-1/2" collectors from Summit Racing on a 68 RR, they fit pretty well, part# Hed-78070 painted, not the best for all out performance, but better performance than the Iron HP manifolds, they are above the torsion bar with the collector exits, slighly angled back to the rear, no captured starter or heat sink issues, with 2-1/2" head pipes there is no clearance issues at all even on Edelbrock RPM angle plug BB Wedge heads, I had 3" Flowmaster exhaust so I made custom head pipes with captured nuts to fit, had some minor dings in the 3" head pipe {not the headers} on the passenger side, to clear the stock steering arm, I think it was...

[tufamc]

what can I say, I ordered 78036's, box say's 78036's, header flange is etched with 78036's 

I've had many Headman branded headers over the years, no problems with em'

Will I buy Headman's again?, yup, for my charger, nope.....

[flyinlow]

I was thinking about replacing my Hooker painted Comps with ether the shumacker ceramic tri Y or the Hedman shorty ceramic. Every one I have talked to about the Tri -Y likes them. I guess I will give up a little top end Hp for no rattles ,cooler engine compartment  and the ability to change a starter on the road.