wishing quick answers about how to assembly my 451

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok, lets go...

-Crower 282HDP camshaft. Summit 3 key crank sproket. I don't have degree wheel and don't tell me to get one. Do I install dot to dot at 0 degrees key on Crank sproket ? I do understand the Camshaft duration and lift therms, but certainly I don't get completelly the centerline value ( and for several reasons I don't have the mind to understand it now, lot of problems around to solve is getting me lot distracted without concentration )

-MP Dist setup... how much initial timming and how much max advance. If you can tell me in fact which spring and wich adjuster to use ( if you know the MP curve timming kit ), BETTER. as I'm telling you, my head is not right now to think about it, just assembly and start up. Build this engine has got me LOT of problems, fighting against EVERYTHING you can think on on a build, so I don't want to think on why this or that, not at this moment at least.

Heads have been ported and 2.14/1.81 valves mounted but the A$$H0L3$ at machine shop didn't made the 30º cut on head at chamber side, they made 0º DEGREEES!!! now the chamber need to be edges softened on that area. Working on that with a friend who is checking chamber and runners volume, adjusting as needed. So, still Chamber volume unkown. They are 452 NOS heads so you can figure out the volume to 88-90 cc maybe ? Combustion chamber has been polished so won some volume I think.

By piston manufacturer specs ( KB215 ), and just giving an idea, using metallic headgasket I should be getting around 10.3 CR. I hope I little bit less to run safe on 95 octane gas pump

rest of specs
TC is MP 175K ( so around 2500 stall as catalog specs ? )
3:55 SG rear
255/60-15 wheels
2186 Eddy intake with TQ carb
HP exhaust with 2.5" pipes, Flowmonsters SS mufflers ( Kinda a copy of magnaflows I think )
A/C car with brakes booster and street car.

any advice on my engine assembly to the first start up ( what I HOPE will be on first days next week ) will be great

[b5blue]

  Nacho I can feel your stress in this post!  I would recommend the degree wheel highly but you said not to so I'm not saying it, only saying do not rush anything now. I'm certain Ron will chime in soon to help you brother!  (All the mistakes on my build came from not checking others work or bad new parts, it drove me nuts till I dug in and found the issues one by one.)

[Chryco Psycho]

yes without a degree wheel install the cam dot to dot , with the Zero slot on the crank gear
the timing should be set in the 14-16* range at idle with a 20* curve & 36 * total timing
assembly tips .... I should probably write a book !! , I check everything , ring gaps before installing on piston & make sure gaps are far apart on the piston before inserting them , use rubber sleeves over the bolts to prevent damaging the crank while installing the pistons , check brg clearances , assemble it with a good brg lube , make sure all the rod & main caps are installed the correct way brg notches on the same side  , they can easily be reversed but will not center correctly , degree the cam LOL or not ,torque everything , use locktite on cam bolts , take your time .

[Nacho-RT74]

  Nacho I can feel your stress in this post! 

YES I AM!!! this project has been a total headache to make locally... AND EXPENSIVE WITHOUT REASON. I don't want to tell you how much charged me for rebalance the crank... BUT THE SAME THAN I PAID FOR THE CRANK ITSELF!!!

( caps are not for you, just screaming out loud )

lot of time consuming because the machine shop irresponsability, so taking everything from shop to shop... 4 MONTHS just to get the parts done.

Thanks for the suggestions looking forward for more from more ppl if needed. I can learn more about the centerline mean, but not at this moment

[frederick]

Just print this and stick it on some cardboard.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/DegreeWheel.jpg

Centerline is where maximum lift occurs.

[Nacho-RT74]

Thanks.

[FLG]

Nacho,

Not sure if it would help you, but if you want to cover shipping i could send you my degreeing kit....in no rush to get it back, could have it for a few months if you wanted. Though with the cost of shipping to and from, not sure if it would be wise. But throwing it out there.

[Nacho-RT74]

Thanks Frank, no time for that, I want and for several reeasons i won't post here, NEED to assembly ASAP, plus Fedex or DHL or whatever will charge an eye for that. Don't worry and thanks.

[71bee]

Boy, your making me nervous Nacho! 

I just barely started my 452 stroker project. all I have so far is a machined block (.40 over) & a good forged crank (also machined to the blocks specs). I have a good set of Eddy Performer heads & a set of ProComp roller lifters. i'm trying to decide on the pistons/rods/roller cam i wanna snag, & a full roller kit.

I like what your doing so far with the build. sorry about the complications. 

[Nacho-RT74]

You know, even I'm decided to try the 282HDP camp, I have been really tempted to use the MP 280/474 I originally got. What made me buy the Crower cam is the rust my MP cam got because the box got wet by several weeks ( humidity at the wall where the shelf is ), and got the front trace deeply rusted.

Went to machine shop to polish and remove any sharp edge what could damage the bearing. They assured me it can be still used, and holes would just storage oil inside

[Nacho-RT74]

The crankshaft, already balanced.

some of the original holes the 440 crank had were refilled ( dunno what was used for that but I can see welding there )

If you ask me, not a clean job like you usually have in USA, but I hope will work and SAFE.

I'm using an used stock damper to late forged cranks that I got on ebay ( simetrical pulley holes ), what must be of course neutral, and the new remanufactured mounted on a car previously by last owner but suposelly never ran ( won on ebay too in $75 maybe 2 or 3 years ago ), 175K MP TC, without counterweights, sent by teh seller with the original box from Chrysler with the REMANUFACTURED word on Mopar decal

I didn't take them to the balancer shop, being neutral

[Nacho-RT74]

how it was after the counterweights and mains cut ( just right before the balancing job )

You can see which holes were filled, the big ones on the front counterweight. I guess he didn't want to redrill the big front big counterweight at the filled area and thats why he drilled the second one

[Nacho-RT74]

Do I have to worry if I get 10.4:10 CR on this setup ?

already measured the deck clearence... its 0.017-0.018 ( 0.018 feeler fits tight! )

still needs to know the chamber volume, will call tomorrow to my buddy to know how is that. Last time I CC'd a 452 got 92 CCs, so playing with 90 on calculators just in case, but I'm sure polishing won some volume there.

I'm a little bit worried about the rod oil clearence. It looks have lot of play there. I don't have plastigage to check it and is nearly imposible to find it locally, but several old school ppl ( ppl who uses to be on 1/4 mile races )  have given me a trick to check if I'm fine, using newspaper between bearings and rod and cap. If drags with that, I will be fine.

[justcruisin]

Dude - if you are assembling your own motor a bit of basic measuring gear is a good idea. Grab a second hand mic and bore gauge and spend some time practicing with them on a known quantity or at least use some plastigage. You have invested some good gold allready it would be a shame to have a cock up that could have been avoided, it will also give you some piece of mind. Just my opinion.

The compression seems high for a iron head pump gas combo but no experience myself with your set up.

[Nacho-RT74]

thanks.

anyway, I'm testing with what I have in hands at this moment and results were:

The 7/8 rods journal passed the newspaper test... not the 1/2 though, I didn't took care of make the newspaper test on the middle ones being with the bad result on the 1/2 journals, I'll have to get the crank to the machine shop AGAIN to be rechecked ( diff machine shop of course ).

the problem on this now is, more than the machine shop work itself, won't be easy try to find 0.020 bearings locally. Already made some calls, and nobody seems to have them in stock

now, cutting from 0.010, to 0.020, will I need to rebalance the crank ? specially if will cut more meat on rear rod journals than in front ?

Block deck... didn't pass the proove either. Removed the rope seal because I had some big diff on deck clearence on rear ( I didn't torqued main caps initially, I was making just rough measurement about ). Simply put the crank on block bearings, without the caps. Got around 0.017-0.018 deck clearence at the 1 and 2 pistons deck as I told, but rears ( 7 and 8 ) are around 0.025, soooo, unless I can get something else wrong around the block, SIMPLY BLOCK DECK IS NOT FLAT. I don't think putting and torquing the caps will make diff to save the 0.007-0.008 diff height on deck clearence. This is not fault of the last machine shop, simply something went wrong 10 years ago, when I rebuilt the engine sleeving the block, where with stock pistons so deep down the hole is/was something not to worry a lot. Maybe in fact is a diff since engine was born at assembly plant.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm thinking... maybe rod journals are offset?