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window fogging issue

Started by thebeast, March 20, 2012, 10:12:20 AM

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thebeast

Im new to the forum and to forums in general so please be patient with me.

I have a 72 charger.  I am having major trouble seeing whenever it rains due to my windows
fogging up.  They fog instantly and when wiped immediately refog.  My defrost blows but the air
doesnt really change temperature and only has affect on a very small area of the windshield.

My question is, do i have an issue with my windows not being sealed or is that normal in these cars
and i need to get my ac fixed?  I have limited funds right now so i am trying to tackle this problem as
efficiently as possible.

Thanks so much for any help!

Ghoste

One thing to check might be that the hoses running from the heater box to the vent are in good shape and then making sure the selector for the air door is properly adjusted so that max airflow is getting up there on the defrost mode.

ACUDANUT

The easy way would be not to drive a 42 year old classic car in bad weather.  Another option is rain-x.  Inside and out.

thebeast

Thanks Ghoste, i will try and check those things. 

Acudanut, i get what you are saying about not driving it in the rain.  Unfortunately my family is
down two vehicles right now so i need it as a daily driver.  Plus i know when these cars were made
they could handle driving in rain.  So there is a solution out there.  Might be beyond my current
financial ability, but theres a reason for this issue.  I will try rain-x too.  Thanks!

Cooter

"The Beast"....Yes, there WAS a solution and it was when the DEFROST button was pushed the A/C ran like in most newer cars blowing SUPER DRY air up on the glass..Without A/C, your urinating in the wind.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

If you don't have A/C like I don't in my car, you just have to warm up the inside of the car to the point it will keep the glass warm so it won't fog.   Other wise, you will have to do whatever you can to keep the inside temps the same as the outside which would prevent fogging also.  May need to drive with a vent window open to equalize the temps inside the car to the outside temps.  Fog is essentially condensing water to a cooler surface.  Your solution is either to dry (using the a/c) the air, equalizing the temps in the car to what it is outside, or (and this might take a while) getting the temps inside the car higher than what it is outside so anything would condense on the outside of the car and you can use your wipers to clear it away.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

squeakfinder


  Is your heater core even hooked up? Are there heater hose's running from the engine to the firewall?
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

squeakfinder



    The other thing I wonder about is the heater control valve. Or the cable going to it. Being that you mentioned the temperature doesn't change much.

           


      http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10802.0.html
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

thebeast

Wow, awesome info.  I will check all this out later.  Thanks so much.

thebeast

Is the picture below the heater control valve?  And should there be something going into these in the second picture?

doctor4766

That second pic is of the A/C lines into the cabin.
Gotta love a '69

resq302

yup, you got an a/c car with the missing a/c components!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

thebeast

So what are the hoses going  :shruggy: in the first picture?

jar1292

that would be your heater core.
Restoring a charger is like a saying I heard along time ago "I never said it would be easy, I only said it would be worth it".... Jesus I wish I could remember who said that...

A383Wing

maybe heater core has a small leak? Same thing happened to my Dodge Shadow.....turns out the heater core was leaking....now no more fogging windows

Bryan

thebeast

So is the rusty thing in the hose in the first picture the heater control valve? 

Charger RT

Quote from: thebeast on March 20, 2012, 09:32:26 PM
So is the rusty thing in the hose in the first picture the heater control valve? 

yes and it looks like the cable is missing to change the valve position.
Tim

resq302

Well, all that the heater core shut off does is stops the coolant from circulating through the heater core when you have the A/C on.  Kinda defeats the purpose blowing cold air and then having to go through something that is putting off heat inside the car.  If all of the A/C stuff is removed, there is really no need for the shut off and it can be left on all the time which will act like if it was a non A/C car.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

thebeast

Great!  I'm going to try turning the shutoff lever and see if I get hot air.
:2thumbs:

squeakfinder

 

     Yeah. Looks like the cable is broke. You could just bypass that valve with a longer hose if it won't open.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

ACUDANUT

Driving a 42 year old car in wet conditions does nothing but promote and excelate the rust.  You won't have much left of this car in a year or two.  Find a beater and use it. :Twocents:

472 R/T SE

You could always just replace that hose completely.  Auto parts store prolly carries the hose, $5 @ the most.

-heater core leaking.  Antifreeze is passing through the inside of your car via the heater core.  If it's bad it's like a water pump in that it'll start leaking (if you're lucky), something broke with my core but I was a block from the house.  By the time I got home I had 2" of antifreeze on the pass. side.
-wiper base letting water in.  Is the carpet wet?  Something is prolly wet.
-something inside the car is wet

If you want you could install some sort of valve to shut the antifreeze off & on.  Shut the water off completely during the summer months.

We live in the NW so it's something that can't happen.  Like Brian said, open a vent window or crack the door windows.