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440 not getting fuel. Fuel pump test (vid)

Started by LI_DSM, November 02, 2011, 04:33:38 PM

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LI_DSM

I'm trying to get my car started. Originally the firing order was not correct so I pulled all the plugs and found when cylinder 1 was at the top of the compression stroke and set the timing up from that. I got it to fire but only when adding fuel directly into the carb. It doesn't seem to be getting fuel though on its own. I pulled the lines from the mechanical pump and ran them both directly to a bottle of gas just to make sure it was pulling and pushing. As you can see in the vid when you start the car it just looks like it 'pushes air and created the bubbles. I pulled the line out that goes to the carb to show that it is not shooting fuel out as it should. Am i doing something in correctly or is my pump bad?




Here is a vid of it starting right up once fuel is in the carb (don't mind the person filming)



Thanks for any help.


Chryco Psycho

so you are drawing fuel with the second line into the container ?
the fuel pump is bad if so .
If you are drawing fuel from the tank then you could have a suction problem , the pick up or line could have an pin hole allow the pump to draw air instaed of fuel

Paul G

I'd say your not getting fuel. Do you have the fuel lines connected correctly at the inlet and outlet of the fuel pump? Any blockage in the fuel lines going back to the tank, can you blow air back in to the tank? Is there enough fuel in the tank? Don't laugh, that has kept more engines from starting than you would believe. Is there another fuel filter by the tank that could be plugged? A second in line filter (plugged up on me) back by the tank has screwed me on occasion.

You may want to try filling the carbs float bowl through the vent. The carb will then have enough fuel to keep the motor running long enough for the fuel pump to draw fuel from the tank.
1972 Charger Topper Special, 360ci, 46RH OD trans, 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.91 gear, 14.93@92 mph.
1973 Charger Rallye, 4 speed, muscle rat. Whatever engine right now?

Mopars Unlimited of Arizona

http://www.moparsaz.com/#

LI_DSM

I ran the inlet line directly from the pump to the container of gas. I also ran the outlet hose from the pump directly to the container to see if one side pulled and the other pushed. Both hoses are brand new and are both coming right off the pump.

Paul G

Keep in mind the pump wont move much fuel while just cranking the engine. Like Chryco says, probably a bad pump. What leads you to diagnosing the fuel pump? Was the car running prior to this?
1972 Charger Topper Special, 360ci, 46RH OD trans, 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.91 gear, 14.93@92 mph.
1973 Charger Rallye, 4 speed, muscle rat. Whatever engine right now?

Mopars Unlimited of Arizona

http://www.moparsaz.com/#

FLG

John,

Ive got a new mechanical pump sitting here i can give you, also found the flanges for the headman headers i sold you awhile back if you need em. Ill shoot you a ring later today.

:2thumbs:

LI_DSM

Quote from: Paul G on November 02, 2011, 09:25:46 PM
Keep in mind the pump wont move much fuel while just cranking the engine. Like Chryco says, probably a bad pump. What leads you to diagnosing the fuel pump? Was the car running prior to this?

The carb wasn't getting gas to it. So I just went down the list ruling out possibilities. The car was started maybe 3-4 times in the last 5 years. Last summer I started it up and took it up and down the street but for the most part the cars just been sitting. I've never really had an issue with it not getting fuel. This summer I pulled the engine replaced some of the gaskets on it as well as rebuilding the trans. I just put it back together and am trying to get it running now.

Quote from: FLG on November 03, 2011, 04:08:43 AM
John,

Ive got a new mechanical pump sitting here i can give you, also found the flanges for the headman headers i sold you awhile back if you need em. Ill shoot you a ring later today.

:2thumbs:

That would be awesome :2thumbs: I called around to a few local places to see if they had one in stock all of them said they would need to order it in. I'm free all day today if you're not to busy shoot me a text or give me a call. Thanks!

Back N Black

Check the fuel pump push rod before installing a new pump. it should measure 3.25 inches.

Brads70

Quote from: Back N Black on November 03, 2011, 06:28:02 AM
Check the fuel pump push rod before installing a new pump. it should measure 3.25 inches.

That was my thoughts too...

resq302

Quote from: Back N Black on November 03, 2011, 06:28:02 AM
Check the fuel pump push rod before installing a new pump. it should measure 3.25 inches.

just curious but are the fuel pump push rods the same for all engines?  Im thinking of ordering a spare for our small block engine in our chally.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

maxwellwedge

No rod used on the small blocks....pump arm goes dirctly to the eccentric on the camshaft.  :2thumbs:

LI_DSM

Why would the motor have run in the past if the pushrod is wrong? It was actually driven alot until the trans started slipping.

Back N Black

Sorry, i should have explained better, the fuel pump push rods wear down to a point where the vehicle won't start. i was left stranded with the same problem

FLG

If I can find my spare fp pushrod ill bring that as well  :2thumbs:

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: LI_DSM on November 03, 2011, 10:43:01 AM
Why would the motor have run in the past if the pushrod is wrong? It was actually driven alot until the trans started slipping.

See here....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,82726.0.html
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

damn, just checked on rockauto.com the push rod for the fuel pump for an Airtex brand is $33 plus shipping.  Dan, how much was it when you got them?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

FLG

Brian,

For your big block you can get one from mancini or 440source for around 10-15$


As for your small block....the pump rides the ecentric of the cam, no pushrod needed.

resq302

Was on line checking out summit and found some that have a brass tip.  What is the advantages of a brass tip vs. the regular hardened carbon steel?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: resq302 on November 04, 2011, 04:45:21 PM
Was on line checking out summit and found some that have a brass tip.  What is the advantages of a brass tip vs. the regular hardened carbon steel?

Brass tips are for roller cams....Dan got his & my replacements from Mancini Racing
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on November 04, 2011, 05:08:26 PM
Quote from: resq302 on November 04, 2011, 04:45:21 PM
Was on line checking out summit and found some that have a brass tip.  What is the advantages of a brass tip vs. the regular hardened carbon steel?

Brass tips are for roller cams....Dan got his & my replacements from Mancini Racing

Ah ha!  I knew there had to be a reason between the two.  Thanks Chris.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto