Removing a Stubborn Drum

[moparfreak]

So, my rear drum brakes are locked up. I have plans to replace all the hardware, shoes, drums, etc. The RR still has some free play in it, but the LR is completely locked up, drum rusted in place.

I tried to get in there and adjust the star wheel to disengage the shoes, but no luck at all. To my dismay, I also noticed that the leaf spring shackle makes it difficult to make adjustments and get a screwdriver in straight.

Anyways, what would be the best way for me to remove the drum? I'm willing to cut/break whatever I need to, as I'll be replacing everything, although I'd probably like to keep the backing plate. Could I somehow break the center anchor pin from the back? Or maybe the brake shoe support nails? I'm just not sure how to get this thing off...

Thanks,
Adam

[bull]

I would try vibration first to shock it loose. An air hammer with a blunt bit aimed at the flat portion around the hub should do the trick (try not to hit a stud). If that doesn't work you might try some heat. Use a heat gun or propane torch to heat the drum (without melting any plastic or rubber parts) which will cause the metal to expand. Also, if the rear end is up off the ground and you happen to have a Sure Grip you can try breaking it loose by turning the opposite wheel back and forth.

[Chatt69chgr]

I tried everything to get a rear drum off once----nothing worked.  Finally, took a angle grinder with cutting wheel on it and cut across the outer brake shoe surface on outside of drum.  Have to be careful to not cut the backing plate.  As soon as it did that, the rusted drum let go and came right off.  I had intended to replace the drums anyway so was not concerned about ruining the drum.

[70 Charger RT]

Sludgehammer.  It worked for mine.  Care not to miss.

[moparfreak]

I tried everything to get a rear drum off once----nothing worked.  Finally, took a angle grinder with cutting wheel on it and cut across the outer brake shoe surface on outside of drum.  Have to be careful to not cut the backing plate.  As soon as it did that, the rusted drum let go and came right off.  I had intended to replace the drums anyway so was not concerned about ruining the drum.

I was going to try that next, break out the die grinder and try splitting the drum. I plan on replacing all the hardware, except for the backing plate, since I'm not sure where I can buy that.

Did you cut around the perimeter of the drum, or straight across through it?

Thanks,
Adam

[GPULLER]

Could try heading the face of the drum, might have rusted to the axle flange.  It has worked for me.

[elacruze]

if it's really that bad, use a sledge. Knock out the wheel studs first, then hit the crap out of the axle flange-that should make it jump out from under the drum. Heat as much as you can too, MAP gas torch or Oxy/Acy. If the shoes are rusted like the park brake was set, you may end up unbolting the backing plate too.

[tan top]

Sludgehammer.  It worked for mine.  Care not to miss.

yep give it a hiding !!   alternate sides   in these locations !! (( not tap tap tap , but one big bash  then one other side , alternating  a few times , !! then try pulling  !!  ((( becarefull  don't hit the body work !!  seen a guy do that who i worked with years ago )))
if it still don't come off  ,  grind the head of the retaining pins off on the back !! with a carbide bit on a die grinder or dremel !!  where goggles !!  , (( unbolt the wheel cylinder & brake pipe / optional  )) !! then pull !!
will prolly/might  wreck the wheel cylinder or at least the rubbers ! but guessing it needs replacing anyway

[moparfreak]

Do you have a picture of the retaining pins? Are those the two brass looking things on back, both sides? Those serve as pivot points for the shoes, so they should collapse in once the pins are loose, right? I will definitely try the heat/sledge ideas, but I'm not expecting any success there.

Is it easy to install the new pins into the backing plate?

Anywhere I can just buy a new backing plate?

Thanks,
Adam

[tan top]

you won't  need to replace the back plates !!  the way i suggested   ,   pins can easily be bought  , they are some times called  nails !! cause thats what they look like sort of  
i'll post some pictures later tonight !!  to your questions  


*********************EDIT ********************

don't have to  grind the  head off completely  and & damage the back plate ,  just grind on the head on the pin , to make it thinner & then tap it through with a punch

[JeffYoung]

Slide hammer works better than a sledge and does far less damage.

[moparfreak]

Those are great pictures, thanks! When I started looking at this, I was shocked at how difficult it actually is to get in to the star wheel adjustment, since the leaf spring U-bolt is in the way, I can't reach anything but my stubby screwdriver in there. I'm wondering if it's possible that I just aren't getting the leverage I need into the back adjustment hole to release the detent that keeps the start wheel locked.

Any tips on getting that detent lever pushed while being able to get the star wheel de-adjusted?

I am going to keep trying on the star wheel, and then will go to the pins and see about grinding & pounding those out. I assume once those are pushed out, the brake shoes should be pulled inward, right?

Thanks,
Adam

[miller time]

soak it in pb blaster, hit it with a torch, use a crow bar, and if that doesnt work, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!! slegde or mini sledge, make sure you get it to come off straight and even or youll never get it off, if you have to beat it on and off untill it comes straight, and put your crow bar between the studs and turn the rotor untill its some what free 
and make sure your parking brakes off

[tan top]

Those are great pictures, thanks! When I started looking at this, I was shocked at how difficult it actually is to get in to the star wheel adjustment, since the leaf spring U-bolt is in the way, I can't reach anything but my stubby screwdriver in there. I'm wondering if it's possible that I just aren't getting the leverage I need into the back adjustment hole to release the detent that keeps the start wheel locked.

Any tips on getting that detent lever pushed while being able to get the star wheel de-adjusted?

I am going to keep trying on the star wheel, and then will go to the pins and see about grinding & pounding those out. I assume once those are pushed out, the brake shoes should be pulled inward, right?

Thanks,
Adam

its a pain   to even do manual adjusting drums , as your leavering  the spring a little to make the adjusting wheel turn easier !! never tried the self adjusting ones !! like in the photo i posted !!  looking like your going to have to push the locking leaver away from the adjustting wheel , then with a  suitable screwdriver ( thats if there is room in there )) , turn it , but don't look much to lever !! then prolly going to damage the adjusting wheel , as it was never desgined for that !  

[b5blue]

Do you have the correct adjuster tool? It's kinda "Z" shaped and works well back there.
  What happens is the shoe catches on drum from a thin lip where the drum was not worn down. A kinda bump on the very inmost lip of the drum, get me? Well when this edge catches the shoe the shoe angles inside there slightly gripping even tighter, the harder you force the more it grabs!
  If the adjusters are old, rusted, seized or caked with crap they may not want to retract very easily so soak them by spraying PB Blaster through the adjuster holes to clean and lube. If you can't get them to retract you may need to score the drum deeply with a grinder and crack them up with a hammer.
  I've had luck in the past by putting some wooden wedges between the backing plate and drum, not really much just enough pressure so the drum wants to move outward, then wacking the crap out of it in an outward direction, forcing the shoe to jump the lip. Then even if its still tight, rotating the drum to get it to work past the shoe and off.
  This is all assuming the drum is not stuck to the axle hub from rust.