Why won't this car Fire??

[sixpack_sid]

I'm trying to get my 68 Charger running. I am getting nothing when I turn the key, not even a crank from the starter. I got the NSS harness hooked up and she still won't fire. I started checking the fuse box with a light tester. With the key on there is NO juice to the inst. panel, backup light, AC/heater, rear ac. I have juice to the Dome light, c/ltr, tail/stop lights. Moving to the eng. compartment, with the key still on I have NO juice to: coil, ballast resistor, alt reg IGN & FLD, starter relay-brown/yellow & yellow wires. There is juice to the wire on the starter relay that goes to the battery. There is also juice at the pos. cable on Alt.
Am I missing a ground somewhere? I DO NOT have the headlight harness hooked up yet. Would that cause it not to start? Is that harness part of the circuit loop? I'm racking my brain trying to figure this out!      Anyone have any ideas??

[sixpack_sid]

I just came back in from the garage. I pulled the plug off the ign. switch and it seems I am only getting juice to one of the prongs on it. I'm assuming that the switch is working when I turn on the key because it is a brand new ign. switch. Then I pulled the plug off the dimmer switch to see if it had juice. I'm getting juice going into the dimmer switch, but not the feed that comes off of the inst. panel at the fuse box. So I put a jumper wire in the plug on the dimmer switch that had juice that led to the fuse panel. Then I had juice at the fuse box, but the inst. panel lights still didn't come on. Is the dimmer switch bad? Is there a way to test the dimmer switch?

[Back N Black]

Install a jumper wire from the blk/yellow wire to the tan wire and the dash should light up, by passing the dimmer part. 

[Chryco Psycho]

the blue wire at the ballast & voltage reg should have power with the key on , the coil should have 8 v not 12 , no power at th ecoil could be a bad ballast , but you should still have power @ the voltage regulator with the key on so that would be a no spark problem .
the cranking problem is the yellow wire at the relay should have power in the start position so have somoen chack for power in the crank position , if there is power there try shorting the other terminal with the brown wire to ground & see if it wil crank , if not the relay is probably bad , try shorting the two larger terminals on the relay if the starter cranks over the relay has to be bad

[sixpack_sid]

Thank you for all the replies, but I think John Kunkel nailed it on my other post "nss switch"!  Who would have thought a brand new ign switch & lock cylinder would be the culprit. That's where I'm at for now I'm sure there's more problems like the dash lights. They still don't work. But thats another day. Time for some football! 

[sixpack_sid]

The ignition switch was bad! Brand new too! Go figure! I have spark now, she'll crank but won't turn over!

[nascarxx29]

Got power on both sides of the ballast.Distributor in at right time firing order right rotor facing No1 18436572.Spray small shot carb cleaner starting fluid down carb throat and see if it catches

[sixpack_sid]

I figured out that it's the fuel pump. Now I have to wait for the auto parts store to get one for me. I have yet ANOTHER problem! The fuel guage is not working. Is there a way to test the sending unit to make sure that works? I bought the sending unit from the same place I bought the ignition switch that was bad, so I'm not having much faith in the company.
Thanks for the help!

[nascarxx29]

The gauge has a dark blue feed wire going to tank sender .Remove it from sender and ground it .Gauge should rise up and peg with key on .And fall back with key off.It could be your tank isnt well grounded or bad gauge or IVR instrument voltage regulator .Do your other gauges work the water temp

[sixpack_sid]

The gauge has a dark blue feed wire going to tank sender .Remove it from sender and ground it .Gauge should rise up and peg with key on .And fall back with key off.It could be your tank isnt well grounded or bad gauge or IVR instrument voltage regulator .Do your other gauges work the water temp

I disconnected the blue wire from the sending unit. I put my light tester probe in that end and grounded it. The light tester was blinking and the fuel guage needle went to 1/4 tank, which is about how much is in the tank. If the sending unit was bypassed, shouldn't the fuel guage go to full? Also the ground strap seems a little loose, but again-it is brand new, just like the rest of the fuel system. So after seeing the light blinking, when I crawled out from under the car I heard I tapping noise coming from the coil. The key was still on. When I put the light tester on the neg terminal on the battery and the ground on the coil the tapping got very faint. What's going on??