Will a four core aluminum radiator work in my Superbird?

[HPP]

Read more closely, please. I did notate puller in that statement.

So help me with this, what is a 223 or a 224 fan? I'm not much of a mopar numbers type guys, so I don't know what those are. Also, you say you have an aftermarket radiator, what type or kind?

[62 Max]

Read more closely, please. I did notate puller in that statement.

So help me with this, what is a 223 or a 224 fan? I'm not much of a mopar numbers type guys, so I don't know what those are. Also, you say you have an aftermarket radiator, what type or kind?

The 223 fan is a fixed seven blade fan,it differs from the standard seven blade as the blades are sandwiched between the two piece center section,the standard seven blade is riveted to just one side.

[HPP]

Thanks.  So a fixed pitch 7 blade fan should move mucho amounts of air unless the pitch on the blades is somewhat flat. This isn't one of those factory style flex fans with the large but weak/thin blades is it?

So hotrod, what is your engine build like? Also, your radiator, you mention itis aftermarket. Is it just a stock replacment type from an aftermarket manufacturer?

[62 Max]

The fan is not flex,here is the 223 on another motor.

[hotrod98]

Just realized something. I have the 224 style fan and need to find a 223 style fan. I never did locate one back when I was first putting this car together. The 223 fan is the heavy duty with the blades sandwiched and riveted between the two plates. That would help but I still plan to buy an aluminum radiator.

[swissmopar]

Some pics of my installation:
- 4 row Champion aluminum radiator

[HPP]

That 223 should move some air, assuming it has not been flattened out over the years.

Okay, I'll have to assume you have all the basics covered such as state of tune of the engine-it isn't running too lean or timing is too advanced, that it isn't built to be a 700 horsepower monster, and that you have the 224 fan sitting half way into a shroud that covers all the radiator and that the hoses aren't collapsing. If any of these are factors, changes to the cooling system may not help as much as you'd like.

So, some facts about cooling- copper/brass radiators actually disappate heat faster and more efficiantly than aluminum. However, the dissimilar metals require soldering together and these metals combined with hard water can create electrolysis that will corrode the joints and create solder blooms that can plug tubes. Aluminum, however, is stronger and allows more efficient construction even though the material is less efficient. Most aluminum radiators are made from 1" to 1.5" tubes instead of the .5" tubes of a brass radiator. This allows them to have greater surface area over the span of the radiator which will dissapate more heat. Similarly, these bigger tubes hold more coolant than a comparable brass radiator, so if your car is marginally cooled now, going to more capacity with greater area will cool better. In light of this, replacing your thin, four core brass radiator with an exact duplicate, thin 4 core aluminum radiator will not yield any increase in cooling capacity and in fact may make it worse.

Radiator considertions-tube count, exposed tube area, fin contact, fin angle, fin count, and coolant capacity all are factors in how much heat can be radiated from the radiator. This is why cheaper isnt always better and more reputable manufacturers have made these considerations and have built their units to provide these benefits.

Other considerations-paint inhibits heat transfer. Heavily painted radiators, or engine blocks for that matter, reduce efficiency of thermal transfer. Airflow through the radiator is paramount. Any holes in the radiator suppoprt allow air to flow elsewhere. A shroud not sealed to the radiator allows air flow to escape. The fan should be half way in to the shroud with no more than 1" of clearence to the shroud to maximize pulling effect. Air also has to be able to escape the engine bay once it is pulled in. Adding large tube headers takes up a lot of real estate the reduces airflow out of the engine bay. Removing the rear upper control arm adjusting plates may help air flow some. In extreme cases, small 12v puller fans can be mounted in these areas to aid flow. Capacity aids cooling. Larger radiators, larger hoses, larger pump housings all aid in capacity. Cross flow radiators tend to have more capacity than down flow radiators. Through not original to some cars, overflow bottles are a great way to keep maximum capacity up without worrying about it everytime you start the car. If you don't have one, they are worth adding.

Pulley ratios were optimized from the factory for the specific application and the advertised horsepower levels available on the cars. Change the power level of the engine, add accessories, or change the pullies and you've changed the ratio and coolant may be passing too slow or too fast through the system. Either way may not allow the correct amount of heat transfer. To work around pulley ratios, alterations to coolant flow can be experimented with to better dial in what you need. Different thermostats have different flow capabilities. Water pumps with more blades or curved blades move more water. Riveting a plate to the back of the impeller moves more water. Try this, remove the thermostat, drive the car as you normally would and see if overheating gets better or worse. If it get better, you need more coolant flow. If it gets worse, you need less flow. To restrict flow you can try a thermostat with a smaller opening or replace it with a restrictor plate to slow the flow. Another trick in this area to the use of multipass radiators. If your coolant is moving too fast, you can get radiators that have baffels built in to them to direct the flow across the core 2 or 3 times to aid in heat disappation. This slows down the flow and gives the heated coolant more time in the radiator to disapate heat.

So there are a few considerations to play with over the weekend and to aid in your research.

[ACUDANUT]

 How much are these Champion Radiators ??

[swissmopar]

How much are these Champion Radiators ??

http://www.championradiators.com/page/424795590

Champion All Aluminum Radiator
4-Row Core
Polished Tanks
Cools 800hp
CORE:17 ½" Tall x 26" Wide
TOTAL: 22 1/4" (23 1/4" Incl Cap) x 29" Incl Brackets
Inlet 1.5" pass side/ outlet 1.75" driver side
Tanks 3.2" Thick
Almost 3" thick core
Bracket mount System
When using electric fans:
Two 12" Electric fans recommended for this core size
Fan shipping is FREE when purchased with a radiator

Aluminum Shroud is also Available
SKU:   MC375
Price:   $279.98