Strengthen the bottom end!

[Hudson Hornet !]

On a b series engine, 431 to be exact. What is the best way to beef up the bottom end?  I currently have arp studs, but what about a girdle system or 4 bolt aftermarket caps?  I would like something that would give me piece of mind when running the engine hard.  Also, 440 source advertises main caps that are inexpensive-does this equate to junk? I do not mind spending some money on this and I understand that machine work is involved and I am ok with that. I just need a direction to go in and I think this is the right place to answer. Thanks!

[Chryco Psycho]

Stud girdle will help , you can replace the main caps with billet & or 4 bolt but there is a fair amount of work to instal them , align hone the block & machine for the cross bolts , yo u would have top make a lot of power to hurt a block with a girdle in place

[Challenger340]

On a b series engine, 431 to be exact. What is the best way to beef up the bottom end?  I currently have arp studs, but what about a girdle system or 4 bolt aftermarket caps?  I would like something that would give me piece of mind when running the engine hard.  Also, 440 source advertises main caps that are inexpensive-does this equate to junk? I do not mind spending some money on this and I understand that machine work is involved and I am ok with that. I just need a direction to go in and I think this is the right place to answer. Thanks!

IMO,
NOT trying to talk you out of anything....but.....
I kinda think, "piece of mind", is directly proportional to how much ACTUAL power the bottom end is seeing, under what conditions ?

Personally,
I would not worry at all about a 383 at 550-575-600hp using ARP Studs on the Mains, PROVIDED, it is TUNED Correctly, and Shifted WITHIN it's Power Range ?
THAT,
is accomplished on an Engine Dyno, a FAR BETTER INVESTMENT than sweating "abusing" the Engine by NOT knowing ?

The morale of my story is this.....
you can BREAK the BEST PARTS, with a Crappy Tune, and running the Engine where it does NOT make Power, and can NOT "Pull against a Load".
and conversely,
I have seen 383's live just fine, Dyno'd at 550hp, FOREVER, with NO Main Studs, just stock BOLTS, and running at an RPM where they CAN PULL AGAINST A LOAD.
Sorry for Shouting ! LOL !
But my point is this....
I DYNO Engines pretty much weekly, or Bi-weekly for sure, and you would be amazed at what I see for "tune-ups", and "Shift Points" for Street Engines reccomended by so-called "experts" with A Timing Light, a Screwdriver, an Ear, and using the "seats of their pants" ?
Pretty sad stuff ?
Sometimes, it amounts pretty much to just "abusing" the Engine, far beyond what ANY amount of good parts can provide insurance against ?

IMO,
DYNO'ing should be considered as part of the "strengthening" process, to prevent abusive internal stress to any parts.
Ban the HillBillys !

[Hudson Hornet !]

Thank you guys for the intelligent answers. i would expect my shift point to be around 6500, and right now I have been talking about solid cams( Thanks Challenger 340) !  I also currently have edelbrock heads, and may switch to something more potent in the future. How do standard port victors sound? 

[Challenger340]

Thank you guys for the intelligent answers. i would expect my shift point to be around 6500, and right now I have been talking about solid cams( Thanks Challenger 340) !  I also currently have edelbrock heads, and may switch to something more potent in the future. How do standard port victors sound? 

IMO,
Flow isn't everything, but merely a component relative to a parts combination, conduscive to a targeted power level.

How are you arriving at the 6500rpm shift point ?
What Camshaft & Heads/Intake/Carb for the 6500rpm ?

forgive me here.....but.....
this may be exactly why I was promoting an Engine Dyno as part/Parcel of a good setup for reliability on a given Engine Combo....

let me explain...
I Dyno Weekly/Bi-Weekly for sure, my own Engines, and sometimes others Engines with their Builders present in attendance.....and you would be amazed at what "myths" I see get exploded regarding rpm and Shift Points, Tune-ups as for best Power ?
Kind of embarrassing at times.....
to see Guys with 40 years experience Tuning with Timing Lights/Ear, a Screwdriver, and "Seat of their pants" as some kind of Fact ?
come in....run their stuff....
and see just how "hillbilly" out to Lunch they are ?
Guys that have been running and shifting their Engines for 2 years at 6800 rpm with some "Black Magic", "007, "Top Secret", Earborn HillBilly Tune-up, come in, expecting to WOW us,
only to see...
that their Engines are ALL DONE at 5900rpm, level to 6200rpm, and are TANKING 100hp by where thery are shifting !
and, after,...err.....we make some "suggestions"....
Make 35 hp MORE, albeit still all in by 6000rpm now,
And later,
when they go to the Track using that TUNE, and the shift point SUGGESTIONS, shave 3 tenths off their ET's !

Long story short, the BIGGEST Mistake anyone can make when selecting an RPM Shift Point, is to assume because they have a Cam thats say "3500-7000", and an Intake stating "3000-7500", and Heads with 300plus cfm, that their Engine SHOULD want somewheres in the 65-6800rpm range ? Not so !
DYNO it and find out !
Just because some HillBilly says so...dont make it so....

Pm me,
If you have a parts break down, I can probably find you a Dyno Sheet on that Combo, Head and Cam, especially if it's a BB Mopar. I'll FAX it to you to SEE for yourself.

I got no reason to lie to you...
and,
YOU got NOTHING to lose...

[Hudson Hornet !]

Challenger 340, pm is on the way!