LCA bushing shell removal tool

[dlo3575]

Here is a picture of the tool(s) I bought to remove the pivot shaft and bushing/shell.  The pivot shaft came out oK, after I figured out how to use the tool (i was pulling it out the front and not thru the back as i first thought).  Now the rubber bushing came out super easy.  However, the shell is still in the LCA.  It is deep in there flat up against the back (bottom).  If it were just off the bottom, i could use the split ends and put them in there and use their lip with the tapered allen head and they would grab the shell perfectly, however, there is ZERO room for that. Thus I am at a loss.  I cannot figure out how to use this tool to remove the shell.  I dont want to mess up my LCA by using a chisel, especially after spending $$$ for this stupid tool.  I could use some advice on how to use this tool to remove the shell.  Am I missing something??  Pictures would be handy....

[greasyspider]

Weld a washer from an old shock ( or something similar) inside the sleeve and then just press the sleeve out.  Easy peasy! 

[dlo3575]

I have seen links to the "weld a washer" solution.  I thought if I spent the $$ on the specialty MOPAR LCA bushing removal tool, that it would actually work.  I migh have to drap the LCA's to the machine shop and have them pop them out, since it will save me a bunch of time.  I would still like to hear from some one who has used this tool and can demonstrate how it works.......

[hemi71x]

You probably by now have figured out a way to get the "bushing shell" out of the LCA.
But let me see if i can explain how that tool works.
I'm not the greatest typer, explainer, teacher, in print format, but if you were in front of me in my garage, it would be easy for me to show someone in person.
But we don't have that luxury here.
Anyway, You put those two split "bushing removers" down into the shell that's still in the LCA.
From the other side of the LCA install the flat head Allen bolt.
Screw the "coupler" onto the threads of the Allen bolt.
Screw the 6 inch threaded rod onto the other end of the coupler.
Install the "pipe" portion of the tool over the threaded rod until it seats at the bottom of the LCA
Put the washer, and nut onto the threads, of the threaded rod, and then just keep tightning down on the nut, as it's now pulling the shell out of the LCA.

I bought that tool when they first invented it, when they first put it up for sale. Lot's of years ago. But don't remember if they ever gave me a picture diagram on how they wanted it to be used.
But back then i was a full time wrenching professional mechanic, working for the man, so i was allready experienced in rebuilding Mopar front suspensions since the early 1980's.
Wasn't hard for me to figure it out, after being around other types of "pulling" tools for decades.
Good luck.
That tool does work sweet, once you get the hang of it, but there still are other ways of getting out the bushing shell.
Welding in the washer trick, screwing in a 1 3/8 inch tap, if your experienced in using a air chisel, a couple of ways.
Whatever works for the mechanic doing the job. Whatever method he's comfortable in getting the job done, i guess.

[dlo3575]

I appreciate your instructions.  They made sense to me.  Being a MOPAR newbie, I have never struggled so much with a bushing before in my life!

However, I followed your steps one by one.  I took some pics.  I did notice that my threaded rod is NOT long enough to remove the bushing shell.  it was fine for the bushing, but not the shell.  Do you agree or did I do something wrong?

[hemi71x]

I see where your problem is.
Looks like the flat head Allen bolt that they supply with the tool is way to short.
You need to have a much longer flat head Allen bolt to get the tool to work properly.
My tool isn't here at home with me, to give you a measurement.
Look at my picture to figure out, or give you an idea how long the bolt is.
A long flat head Allen bolt, isn't a common thing to find at a Lowes or Home Depot, or Ace Hardware store, but McMaster Carr has everything in the world.
Your getting close.
Just need a longer flat head Allen bolt.
Jim V.

[dlo3575]

I was wondering if i had a longer threaded rod, then it would pop thru the pipe and i could get a nut on it to crank away.  Is that what you are thinking too?  Or I could ditch the pip and use a large box end of a 2" wrench and a large washer and use the existing threaded rod, either way it ought to work?

I have the tapered allen bolt tighten well unto the hex adapter.  I have it really tight.  i figured that tension is what is going to cause the little wings on the splits to grab the bushing shell as I pull it out with the threaded rod/nut combo.....correct.  I know this is hard to put into words, but I think I have it.  correct me if I am wrong...

[hemi71x]

Longer threaded rod will work too.
Probably lots easier to come by, than a longer flat head Allen bolt.

[bull]

I'm confused. You started the same thread on Spet. 22 and two of us suggested you use a 1 3/8 inch tap. Run it in, flip the LCA over and press or knock it out, done in less than 10 minutes. What made you decide to complicate things?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,84816.0.html

[dlo3575]

It was a matter of principal.  i already paid $$ for the specialty tool.  The add to it that I could not figure out how to use it!!  Now I see that it was not me, but the threaded rod was not long enough.  Now that I know what was worng, it should be a peice of cake. 

I do appreciate all the ideas on how to get it out. 

Now here is a question for all you fine MOPAR folks:  The pivot pin: does it have a shell on it too?  I saw a tech article where it said it too had a shell on it, but I don't think mine does.  Is that correct for Chargers (B-bodies)? 

[b5blue]

  I would go to a specialty supplier and get grade 8 hardware, another coupling nut and and a bolt long enough to make up the difference plus 2 inches. That way you can put a wrench on the nut at the end of the tube and use an air impact wrench to get the whole thing started moving. I'd have to check my FSM but cutting a bushing sleeve off a pivot with a grinder wouldn't be very hard to do.
  I was going to buy that tool along with the other suspension tools but my buddy's shop removed and pressed in a pair of new bushings for 40.00. 
  It may be you just press or drive the sleeve out not pull it at this point. 

[bull]

It was a matter of principal.  i already paid $$ for the specialty tool.  The add to it that I could not figure out how to use it!!  Now I see that it was not me, but the threaded rod was not long enough.  Now that I know what was worng, it should be a peice of cake. 
 

I know what you mean. We had the heater in our hot tub go out a few years ago and called up a repairman to fix it. He got it working and charged us $180+ for the job but it only lasted about three days. So at that point there was no turning back because we were already on the hook. It took him six months and about a dozen trips to our house fooling around with it before I ended up fixing it myself by accident. Did I get my $180 out of him? No. In retrospect I should have just got my money back after it failed the first time and told him to beat it but how could I have known the hassle it was going to be? It didn't matter much anyway because it only worked for about six more months before the jets quit. Got rid of it after that.

[b5blue]

We want pics of this impending victory! 

[dlo3575]

Update:  I got the longer threaded rod from lowes.  Everything set up as it should.  However, after turning the wrench a few times I realized the two split bushing clams (with small gripping lip) just scrapped the inside of the shell, scroring it really good, but no grip.  So I released the tool and inspected the progress.  NO PROGRESS.  This tool is a POS. I am done for the night.  i will try tomorrow, then if that dont work then I am dropping them off at the machine shop!

[hemi71x]

To the inexperienced person trying to rebuild Mopar lower control arms, for the first time,it can be a pain in the butt to get them done.
But everyone has to start out doing them sometime, and somewhere.
Sorry to read about your difficulties in using that "special tool" that is marketed in getting LCA's done.
As i stated in an earlier posting, i have used that tool for ages, and have worn out, stripped, more of those threaded rods, and nuts, removing the shafts, and bushing shells, from those LCA's throughout the years.
I think your problem really lies with the fact that you don't have a 5 inch flat head Allen bolt, to use with that tool.
In your picture it looks like you have a washer, and then the threaded coupler right onto the bushing removers in the LCA.
I will bet that if you had the 5" Allen flat head bolt, it will allow the little lip of the remover's to get into the bottom area of the bushing that's in the LCA.
As a matter of fact i was over my storage locker early this morning, finishing up the rebuilding of another one of my LCA's that i will be putting up for sale on eBay.
I have good success using that tool when i use it away from the garage when i'm rebuilding LCA's for customers of mine.
But i do prefer to use a 1 3/8 inch tap to screw into the bushing shell to remove it that way. I don't own a welder, or have access to one, to weld a washer onto the shell, so i don't use that method.
I have Mopar maintenance, service manuals, that go back to the late 1950's, and the Mopar engineers invented the 1 3/8 inch tap method to remove the bushing shells.
In a 1962 maintenance servive manual is when i saw that method first used.
As you can see i do lots of LCA's, in my side line, little business, in rebuilding front susprnsion, and brake parts.
Must have literally done upwards of 100 pairs of these LCA's throughout the decades.
Anyway, good luck with your LCA's.
Jim V.

[dlo3575]

I did have the allen head tapered threaded rod.  The picture shoows it full threaded into the split bushing sleeves, then a washer on top and the threaded coupler.  It gripped the sides of the bushing shell, but not enough.  it just scrapped all the way out.  It is a worthless POS

So save your cash and use the methods others have suggested.  I think the large tap woould work nicely, especially if you dont have a welder. 

Me personally, I am a busy businessman.  I have little time.  So I gave up and took my LCA's to the machine shop today.  I can get them wednesday.  For me, that is the quickest, easiest way.  i asked for the bushing shells back.  I intend to put them in a jug of Thermite and take it to the range for shooting practice!!! Ahh sweet revenge!

So my fellow MOPARS, I surrendered.......Sorry.......

[dlo3575]

Well i got my LCA's and the one stubborn a-arm back from the machine shop.  For $10.00 I got the bushings removed and the stubborn upper ball joint removed.Now i have a few comments:

1.  The LCA split bushing removal tool is a POS!

2.  The machine shop had a cool idea when removing a stubborn upper ball joint:  heat up the ball joint with a torch (tried that) then spray penetrating oil on ball joint area and let cool.  The put ball joint removal tool on impact wrench and do it to it! I used my personal godzilla heavy truch impact wrench and got nowhere.  he used the above technique and presto!

3.  The machine shop had a said something odd  he thought the a-arms I had still might need the bushing shells removed and tolld me to look at the new bushing and see if it does or not.  I THOUGHT the a-arms are naked (see today's picture). Aren't these ready for blasting, powder coat and new bushings or am I newbie MOPAR wrong?

4.  Finally, one of the LCA's was chewed up a bit withthe air chisle, is it really a big deal or nothing at all once the new bushings are pressed back in?