1999 Chrysler Cirrus

[Bobs69]

Just changed the fuel pump.  Was pretty pleased with myself.  then it wouldn't start.  No fuel coming to the rail.  I unplugged the quick connect under the hood had the wife turn the key and nothing.  Switched some of the relays around.  Nothing.  Any ideas.

Pretty damned sure I plugged everything back in.

[A383Wing]

why did you change the pump?

[bull]

why did you change the pump?

Prolly cause he figured it was bad.

[adauto]

Airtex??? POS!!!

[Bobs69]

YES AIRTEX!  From Autozone.

[Todd Wilson]

why did you change the pump?

Prolly cause he figured it was bad.

[adauto]

Personally I'd take a used OEM over AIRTEX. See what the dealer wants for a new one if it's not outrageous.  (providing that is the problem) 

[A383Wing]

which is why I asked the question in the first place...why was pump changed?

if ya got no pressure at rails now, and you didn't before either, what made you suspect the pump?

was voltage checked at pump connector? Was fuse & relay checked? Was ASD relay checked? Any codes? Can communication be established at ALDL connector with scanner?

[Bobs69]

which is why I asked the question in the first place...why was pump changed?

if ya got no pressure at rails now, and you didn't before either, what made you suspect the pump?

was voltage checked at pump connector? Was fuse & relay checked? Was ASD relay checked? Any codes? Can communication be established at ALDL connector with scanner?

Rather then "google" ASD relay and ALDL to B.S. may way thru I'll just admit lack of knowledge and patience to really research it.  There was no gas coming to the rail or to the line on the other side of the one way valve.  No engine light so my OBDII reader could not read it.  I couldn't hear the pump running either.  I did switch the relays around.  I read on the NET that it could be the Crankshaft positioning sensor.  If it doesn't work, then no fuel will be pushed.

So rather then go with my gut I took some advice from a mechanic friend and changed the pump.  When that didn't work he came down to look.  He lives 45min away.  He had one of those super dupper snap-on readers and it showed that the crank sensor wasn't working.  It would sometimes.

And to add insulet to injury he tested the old pump and it worked.   hahah lovely.  Only think I can say is I learned a couple of things.   So I will get a sensor, FROM THE WRECKERS!  The only reason I put any effort into making this thing run is the wife put new tires on it before she bought her nissan and it's been sitting since.

[A383Wing]

Which is why I asked those questions...rarely do Chrysler pumps fail....I had a feeling that was not the problem...and my first thing I would have checked was the crank sensor...those fail as often as the dual ballast resistors in the early electronic ignition cars...

I would stay away from wrecking yard sensors...new ones are not expensive...plus you have to adjust it correctly..new sensors come with adjusting felt on the bottom of them

Bryan

[Bobs69]

Which is why I asked those questions...rarely do Chrysler pumps fail....I had a feeling that was not the problem...and my first thing I would have checked was the crank sensor...those fail as often as the dual ballast resistors in the early electronic ignition cars...

I would stay away from wrecking yard sensors...new ones are not expensive...plus you have to adjust it correctly..new sensors come with adjusting felt on the bottom of them

Bryan

oh my god.  Adjusting? So the felt is like a spacer or something?  And it's really necessary?  What happens without it?   Just won't run?

[Bobs69]

Wish I could have talked to you first A383Wing.   I should have followed my own gut. Probably would have learned more? I was fealing pretty bad about not reasearching it more.

[Cooter]

This is why I don't have my own "At home" Dentistry right now....

[A383Wing]

yes..the felt is a spacer on the new ones...if sensor is not adjusted correctly, it will not start

adjusted too close, it will hit the flywheel teeth and chew it up...if too far away, it will either run like crap or not start at all

I have in the past had to install the OE sensor back in without the felt on it...what I have done is put sensor all the way in and pull it back out a bit....it's kind of a "feel" thing ya have to get used to doing.

The felt on the new ones is the adjuster..put sensor in until it stops against felt against ring gear...tighten bolt....then when engine turns over, the ring gear will wipe the felt off and it should be adjusted properly..the felt falls into the bellhousing where it stays with no harm done

[gtx6970]

Have you ck'd voltages at the pump ?
Turn the ignition switch to run, the pump should run and prime the system for about 5 seconds. if it does not, ck voltages at the pump connector

[A383Wing]

sounds good in theory, nut the pump connector is on top of the tank....which is back in....

unplug the crank sensor and then see if you have fuel pressure at the rail when you turn key on

[gtx6970]

sounds good in theory, nut the pump connector is on top of the tank....which is back in....

unplug the crank sensor and then see if you have fuel pressure at the rail when you turn key on

is this one of the cars you can gain access to the fuel pump by lifting the rear seat bottom ?

[A383Wing]

You would have to ask Bob...but I don't think so....as long as I have been doing this job...I don't know of any American cars that have access panel for fuel pump...Chev trucks & Suburbans need it the most....I bet I change out at least 3 a month here at work on those trucks....GM cannot make a good fuel pump

[gtx6970]

Chrysler LH cars have an round metal access panel in the trunk floor to R+R the fuel pump.

And some years JA cars you remove the rear seat bottom to remove the fuel pump that way ( been a while so I don't remember all the details.)

[Bobs69]

My mechanic friend scanned it with a snap-on scanner.  It said the sensor is bad.  That should be pretty cut & dry shouldn't it?  Seriously I don't know.  I can only trust the equipment.

Anyhow, I'm not in a great need to have this car running, although I would like it to.  I really appreciate the interest you guys are showing in helping me,  but I won't actually do anything to it this weekend for sure, I'm working.

I may ebay a new one or see what I can get accross the border in the States.  They are well over a hundred bucks here.  I was told to use a piece of 1/8 door seal trim or something like that if I was to use a junkyard sensor, I went to the dealer ship and got the felt one just in case. 

The pump is not accessible thru the trunk or the back seat.  It has a spin top cap that retains the pump and it's on an angled section on the tank.

[A383Wing]

Chrysler LH cars have an round metal access panel in the trunk floor to R+R the fuel pump.

And some years JA cars you remove the rear seat bottom to remove the fuel pump that way ( been a while so I don't remember all the details.)

uh...no they don't....

and yea, the door seal trim trick will work....looking forward to your progress.

I didn't know you were up North...I could check with my parts house here for a price on a new one if ya want....would need info about car...send PM if ya want

Bryan

[Bobs69]

I changed the crankshaft postioning sensor.  Now it runs real rough.  Check engine light came on.  P1391.  Intermitant ckp or cmp.  boy oh boy.

[Cooter]

I hope it ain't one of those PIECE OF SH*T 2.7 V6's With that code...

[A383Wing]

well, crap..did you get it adjusted correctly?

could be a bad sensor out of the box....

[Bobs69]

It had the felt paper on it so I can only assume I adjusted it properly.  I have another felt gasket so maybe I'll take it out and look at it (for all the good that will do) and try putting it back just to see if I didn't adjust it right.

It's a 2.5 v6.  Any difference?

2.7 were notorious for oil return problems or something to that effect right?