Front Brake Rubber Hose Removeal and Reinstall Questions

[ChargersETC..ETC..]

I'm replaceing the front wheel cylinders  on my 1969 charger. The rubber brake hose and fittings looks like it's going to be tough to get apart since it been on there so long everything looks pretty rusty. Whats the best way to remove and reinstall the hose?

Do you unbolt the wheel cylinder from car let it hang supported only by hose then pull the metal spacer by the steel brake feeder hose on car frame and take a wrench to unscrew the 2 fittings? At first I thought the rubber hose had a fitting to make it easy to remove but now it looks like you can only unbolt it at top or bottom and theres a spacer clip at one end of my new hose where I thought you could seperate 2 threaded metal fittings I tried that with a rusty old hose and a vice nothing happened other then stripping it so a wrench couldn't be used anymore.Is it best to just cut the old rubber hose off so I don't risk damageing the metal feeder line that is mounted on the car frame cause a new rubber hose is about $ 10 and easy to replace but the steel feeder hose would be a lot worse to replace more expensive and labor intensive to replace.Do I need a special new round washer so the brake fluid doesn't leak from the wheel cylinder or can I reuse the old washers without expecting brake fluid to leak out later. I haven't replaced these parts before so I'm just trying to get advice or find old posts so I do it right .Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

if the hose is that old I assume you are replacing it , just cut the hose use a propane torch & heat the fitting at the steel line & gently undo it

[ChargersETC..ETC..]

Thanks I might try the tip to heat the fittings. I'm still working on getting the wheel cylinder bolts to turn there on tight and there seems to be no clearance for breaker bar and socket only wrench.

[68 RT]

Spray with lots of wd-40 etc. Use line whrench. If you use heat remember brake fluid is very flamable, so do what chryco said cut the brake hose, then make sure all fluid is drained out. 

[tan top]

Thanks I might try the tip to heat the fittings. I'm still working on getting the wheel cylinder bolts to turn there on tight and there seems to be no clearance for breaker bar and socket only wrench.

what a bout   take the whole back plate off  , better access  &   mount in a vice 

[ChargersETC..ETC..]

So far I have been able to loosen the 3 front wheel cylinder bolts using a long 1/2 box end wrench with the thinest casting I had.I can not get a socket to fit due to clearance issues so I don't think thats even possiable.To get the 3 wheel cylinder bolts loose I had to scrape out every bit of dirt,dust and rust to get the wrench to fit but so far I can Not get a wrench to fit the wheel cylinder bolt nearest the drivers seat.I tried turning the steering wheel that may be the key but so far it didn't allow enough clearance to fit the wrench on the whl cyl bolt.
I think the steering should be left staight and wheel cyl should be removed that way no need to turn steering wheel but am not sure. There is not much clearance between the front whl cyl bolts and whatever it's called  :scratchchin:front suspension heavy metal frame piece.
I don't know how to take the brake backing plate off ?I would guess you remove the aprox 4 heavy duty nuts with cotter pins then if all the brake hardwares removed maybee it can be pryed off but removeing the brake backing plate seems like it would be a lot more work since I haven't removed the backing plate before. If I can't get the last wheel cyl bolt loose I might just take a electic grinder and grind it off or even cut the wheel cyl off the car because a new wheel cylinder should go on easy .

[tan top]

yes four bolts with cotter/split pins  ,  thats the way i would be doing it by now

[ChargersETC..ETC..]

Thanks
I'll get it pulled apart one way or the other whichevers easier

[ChargersETC..ETC..]

Well I finally got the wheel cylinders removed! I had to put a long piece of pipe over the end of a long 1/2 inch wrench if i rember correctly in order to get enough leverage. I don't recomend useing the long pipe since it could have rounded off the bolt head but I did it as a last resort and it worked.I was going to try and remove the backing plates but mine hasn't been removed for so long the threads of the bolts are rusted bad and it looked like I would end up haveing to replace all those bolts and the special gasket if I tore that apart.
That was a good tip about removeing the brake backing plate so I might order some of the correct grade bolts and new spindle gasket so if take it apart again I'll be covered.
Finally I broke  the drivers side steel brake line to wheel cylinder so if anyone can recomend a vender I would appreciate it. As for the other brake line I just cut the hose and left it hang
the hoses were junk in my opinion and the brake fluid had turned into what looked like crusty gritty axle greese in other words they were plugged up solid maybee if they were soaked in chemical the crud would have washed out eventually but new hoses seemed best.
At least I learened how to get the front wheel cylinders off .I started with bolt at front of car then moved on to remove the back bolt last since it was hardest to remove but I did loosen both bolts first before removeing one side or the other .It did help a little to turn the steering wheel to gain access to the wheel cylinder bolts and then straighten the steering again.When I reinstalled the wheel cylinder bolts I put lots of never sieze on the bolt threads.