440/6 timing

[boss429kiwi]

Hi

I am about to do some basic tuning checks on my Superbird. It runs well, but is hard to start hot or cold and runs on when turned off (dieseling)
What should the timing be?

440 6 pack, 4 speed
Engine rebuilt 2002.
The only relavant specs I have is 11.6 compression, cam 490 lift, built by Ray Barton.

I will also get the 6 pack carb tuned, once I find a reliable knowledgable person (everyones an expert  )

Thanks
Gary

[b5blue]

Go to "Moparts" under "six pack idle question" (It will come up if you "Google it".) 2/3 of the way down is what I consider a fairly through explanation, You can't miss it as it's huge. Copy it, learn it, use it as a starting point. 

[Budnicks]

I would call Ray Barton if he built the engine or refer to the cam card...  Also you could start out around 12*-15* BTDC @ between 850-1000rpm depending on what the camshaft profile is (maybe even as high as 17*-20* BTDC) & 34*-38* BTDC total @ 2500-3000rpm or were ever your mechanical advance is all the way in, with vacuum advance hose disconnected & plugged, after locking down distributor, reattach the vacuum advance hose & test drive, adjust accordingly if it pings maybe back off a degree at a time until it's gone, or possibly if you have an Mopar Performance CEI Ignition with adjustable vacuum advance turn it in to lessen the advance or out to make it have more "I believe it is, if I remember correctly" if not it's vissa verssa...  You may have to play with springs & weights on the mechanical advance to get it perfect...  Good luck, Happy Moparing

[Budnicks]

I was thinking about this last night...  Is your fuel level in the carb's (especially the center) dropping/draining while it sits ? & making you have to crank it a bunch, just to get the fuel level in the bowls high enough to get an ample shot from the accelerator pump...  Is your float level set correctly ?  Is you fuel pump in good condition, able to supply ample fuel when cranking? (especially if it's a mechanical pump) those issues can also make it had to start when cold or hot... just spitballing...

[boss429kiwi]

Hi

Thanks for the advise.

I briefly played around with it last night. My setup looks very original.
I first raised the float level on the center carb so it was slightly above half way up the sight window. This only needed a half a turn.
I didn't touch the front or rear carbs as the float levels looked fine.
I then checked the mixture on the center carb by ear. Both sides were out 1.5 turns and only turned in 1/4 of a turn, as this sounded like the best position.

The above changes were to my limit and didn't go any further. I will check the timing over the weekend.

I started it a few times last night, while hot and it seemed to start a lot faster then usual. Maybe raising the float level did help?

Cheers
Gary

[Chryco Psycho]

it should just dribble out of the sight hole , if at all
but maybe it is a bit lean , there are mixture screws in the end carbs in the base plate under the bowl , often they are still sealed with a steel cap , adjusting those mixture screws will usually help .
What intake gasket do you have , it help to use the 1215 Felpro gasket & block the heat cross over but you have to basically disconnect the choke to make this work

[boss429kiwi]

it should just dribble out of the sight hole , if at all
but maybe it is a bit lean , there are mixture screws in the end carbs in the base plate under the bowl , often they are still sealed with a steel cap , adjusting those mixture screws will usually help .
What intake gasket do you have , it help to use the 1215 Felpro gasket & block the heat cross over but you have to basically disconnect the choke to make this work

Hi

Mine has the sight windows install, so I was able to raise the float high half way up the window as recommended with ease.
The engine was full built by Ray Barton and I don't have a full breakdown regarding gaskets etc.