My '68 Charger Upgrade Thread: Eddy Heads & Plug/HP Manifold Clearance Pics!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Jet Hot also did right by me about 8 years ago when I had mine done as well....just over the 3 year free recoat warranty by about 2-3 months....they gave me the full recoat for free anyway

[bill440rt]

Well, it's been a while since I updated this thread. So here goes...

I got the heads back from my machinist, all checked out. No milling or other machine work was necessary. He came by & measured the piston/deck height, & figured the Fel-Pro 1009 gasket will work well with the final compression ratio dialing in about 10:1. Perfect.

Heads & intake are also now painted turquoise for "camouflage."   

And... the Master Power brake kit came today!! 
Looks like nice stuff. I got the basic manual kit, with plain, non-slotted/drilled rotors. It came with the GM-style brass prop valve, so it looks like I'll be getting lines made up again for the fronts. I think Fine Lines may already produce them, I will be checking with them tomorrow. The brakes come as completely assembled units, ready to bolt-in as an assembly. I will probably paint them as well anyway, so they stay looking nice down the road.

I already started removing the old front drum assemblies.
I'll try to take & upload some pics tomorrow of the progress.

So... I'm getting ready to bolt the heads on.
I have a question for those mechanically inclined:
The heads are attached with studs/nuts. Some of the studs backed out when removing the old heads, so I am reinstalling the studs. Do I need to use any RTV or sealer on the studs, or just thread lube/antisieze?? 
The FelPro gaskets said to put some RTV if the studs are adjacent or go into a water jacket, I'm just not sure.
(Please excuse my mechanical ignorance, this is my first head swap!) 

Thanks all!

[b5blue]

Hot Diggity Bill....no pics?  The head bolt/stud's don't penetrate the water jacket, but don't take that as your answer! Did you coat the heads with any special primer for aluminum? I use to use zinc phosphate on alloy/aluminum parts, (marine use mostly) kinda greenish stuff, seemed to really hold up well in the engine bay. Also will you need to use exhaust manifold gaskets due to the aluminum-iron mating surface? 

[tan top]

 ......      

[bill440rt]

Also will you need to use exhaust manifold gaskets due to the aluminum-iron mating surface? 

Another great question!
So... does anyone know if I need to run gaskets with the HP manifolds with the aluminum Eddy heads?? 


I just used Duplicolor engine primer in a rattle can before painting, B5. That's always worked for me. 

[FrnkNsteen]

Also will you need to use exhaust manifold gaskets due to the aluminum-iron mating surface? 

Another great question!
So... does anyone know if I need to run gaskets with the HP manifolds with the aluminum Eddy heads?? 


I just used Duplicolor engine primer in a rattle can before painting, B5. That's always worked for me. 

I would say you would need to put gaskets between the HP manifolds and the aluminum heads. Seems that B5 felt that way too in his reply right before your question. I would think the aluminum would react with the iron manifolds if you don't use a gasket.

Question for you Bill...... I have manual drums in my '69 SE as well. Where did you get your manual disk kit from, and what did it run you for the whole setup?? I'm thinking I want to switch to disks up front, but want to stay with the manual brakes and not mess with adding a booster.

[bill440rt]

I would say you would need to put gaskets between the HP manifolds and the aluminum heads. Seems that B5 felt that way too in his reply right before your question. I would think the aluminum would react with the iron manifolds if you don't use a gasket.

Question for you Bill...... I have manual drums in my '69 SE as well. Where did you get your manual disk kit from, and what did it run you for the whole setup?? I'm thinking I want to switch to disks up front, but want to stay with the manual brakes and not mess with adding a booster.

I looked up an old thread where Ron (firefighter aka Super Genius) suggested to use just a thin bead of Permatex copper RTV sealant. So... I bought a tube. 
The manifold mating surface is Jet Hot coated as well, so there would be no metal-to-metal contact anyway. I'll use a little sealer just as a precaution.

I got the kit directly from Master Power. It was about $795, and they gave me free shipping. Not bad, I suppose. I dealt with Fred.

Talked to Fine Lines today as well, seems I might not have to use that GM valve after all. They suggested by simply adding in the correct disc brake prop valve & swapping out the main front/rear line, it would be fine. They carry the valves as well. I think I'd rather go this route, at least it will all be correct brake system parts.

Still...gotta...take...photos! 

[b5blue]

 "Super Genius"...you made me chuckle with that one Bill!  Ron is "The Man" and were lucky to have him! I really wasn't "implying" anything about the gaskets and you caught the "dissimilar metals" aspect as I was wondering about. Not just the differential in expansion but corrosion also, on boats that remain in salt water (Especially around other boats hooked to shore power or not properly wired/grounded.) I saw dramatic examples of the corrosive effect that have stuck that point in my head.
Bill your a very thorough builder an I hope to learn from/with you about the aspects of both your mods. For my disk conversion I bought the old school Mopar proportion valve, a rather large brass one I don't even think the make anymore, again avoiding aluminum on my brake system like the newer more compact ones. (Being on the coast of FL. salt is everywhere.) The Disk-O-Tech write up has a section on proportioning valves that lead me to think just adding one would let me retain my original plumbing and adjust it. Like you I'm done with boosters so I'm trying to locate the so far elusive early 70's manual disk brake master cylinder and may change the rear wheel cylinders size to optimize "peddle feel".
Just how the angled plugs on the aluminum heads with H.P. exhaust manifolds work out for clearance for you is the other aspect as it would be great to have more options than just the new aluminum "replacement" 452 Mopar heads.   

[bill440rt]

"Super Genius"...you made me chuckle with that one Bill!  Ron is "The Man" and were lucky to have him! I really wasn't "implying" anything about the gaskets and you caught the "dissimilar metals" aspect as I was wondering about. Not just the differential in expansion but corrosion also, on boats that remain in salt water (Especially around other boats hooked to shore power or not properly wired/grounded.) I saw dramatic examples of the corrosive effect that have stuck that point in my head.
Bill your a very thorough builder an I hope to learn from/with you about the aspects of both your mods. For my disk conversion I bought the old school Mopar proportion valve, a rather large brass one I don't even think the make anymore, again avoiding aluminum on my brake system like the newer more compact ones. (Being on the coast of FL. salt is everywhere.) The Disk-O-Tech write up has a section on proportioning valves that lead me to think just adding one would let me retain my original plumbing and adjust it. Like you I'm done with boosters so I'm trying to locate the so far elusive early 70's manual disk brake master cylinder and may change the rear wheel cylinders size to optimize "peddle feel".
Just how the angled plugs on the aluminum heads with H.P. exhaust manifolds work out for clearance for you is the other aspect as it would be great to have more options than just the new aluminum "replacement" 452 Mopar heads.   

Thanks! All I can say is that I try to research almost everything before turning a wrench. I just don't like to do things twice!! 
From what I've read, the "452" MP heads are basically Eddy heads with straight plugs. The angled plug Eddy heads will work, but is tight around a few plugs so you have to watch out for heat. Firefighter (once again!!) has a little 90-degree heat shield/boot that goes over your spark plug boot. I'll probably invest in a set when putting this back together. It should do the trick.

OK... photos!
Here are the newly coated manifolds back from Jet Hot.
Heads are also painted.

[bill440rt]

Drum brakes are off. I removed them as an assembly.
The Master Power brakes come pre-assembled, so it makes for an easy re-installation.
I'm also swapping out the aftermarket-style sway bar end links. I got a set of the repro correct-looking ones to go back on.

[bill440rt]

M/C & steering box are out.
I cleaned up the block, it's ready for the new heads & intake.

I still gotta get a new valley pan & some other gaskets, so that may be on hold for a while. I can concentrate on getting the disc brakes installed in the meantime.

[b5blue]

  Looking good Bill!

[tan top]

Looking good Bill!

  great stuff     keep the pictures coming 

[BigBlockSam]

 

[firefighter3931]

Looking good Bill !     Those ex manifolds look awesome ! 

Here's a pic of the 90* heat shield designed to fit with the Firecore "factory fit" 8mm wireset. 



Ron

[bill440rt]

Thanks, Ron!  

Yep, those are the shields. Nice & small. I'll def be in touch with you on those!  

I got the brakes bolted up last night. Master Power couldn't make it any easier, they come pre-assembled. The calipers also come pre-painted. I painted the hub area on the rotors with some hi-temp DupliColor caliper paint. I then masked off the rotor and the caliper & cleared the rest with a hi-temp clear from Eastwood that's designed to go over bare metal. That will at least make sure they stay looking nice & not turn into a rusty mess a month down the road.

I have to paint the M/C & install that next. I'll install the brake hoses sometime tonite, & then start bolting on the heads.

[RIDELIKEHELL]

Looking good Bill

[Rolling_Thunder]

looks good brother

[FrnkNsteen]

Ok, I've got a quick, probably stupid, question. In your pics where the discs have been bolted in (which look greast by the way!! I need to do that!!), There's a section of the wheel well (behind the rotor) that's not undercoated and still red....... why?? I'm sure there's a reason. Is that the way they came from the factory? Did they only put undercoat around the outer areas where the tires would fling crap?

Not trying to hijeck your thread..... just curious.

Thanks!

[Ryan]

Ok, I've got a quick, probably stupid, question. In your pics where the discs have been bolted in (which look greast by the way!! I need to do that!!), There's a section of the wheel well (behind the rotor) that's not undercoated and still red....... why?? I'm sure there's a reason. Is that the way they came from the factory? Did they only put undercoat around the outer areas where the tires would fling crap?

Not trying to hijeck your thread..... just curious.

Thanks!

Thats how they were unless the dealer applied more undercoating.

[FrnkNsteen]

Makes sense. Mine originally being a Minnesota car must have had more added at the dealer because they WHOLE wheel well area is heavily undercoated.

Thanks guys!

On with the show!!   

[bill440rt]

Ok, I've got a quick, probably stupid, question. In your pics where the discs have been bolted in (which look greast by the way!! I need to do that!!), There's a section of the wheel well (behind the rotor) that's not undercoated and still red....... why?? I'm sure there's a reason. Is that the way they came from the factory? Did they only put undercoat around the outer areas where the tires would fling crap?

Not trying to hijeck your thread..... just curious.

Thanks!

No such thing as a stupid question! 
I tried doing an online search for a picture of an original car with factory applied undercoating to the front inner fender, couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. Maybe another member on here has a photo on file they can post.
Basically the undercoating went forward, over, & behind the shock tower, leaving that area painted/uncovered of undercoating. My car is also optioned for full factory undercoating, so the whole bottom is covered. If you have heavy undercoating there, my guess is that the dealer or someone else down the road applied it. Or, the guy on the assembly line was feeling generous that day.

On with the show!!   

No leaps & bounds to report. I installed the P/S box from Steer-n-Gear. It's a Stage 2 unit. It had a THIN coat of cast gray on it, even started getting flash surface rust just sitting in the box. I cleaned it up, & painted it semi-gloss black which it should be. I figured it was close to the exhaust manifold, so I used Krylon Hi-Heat BBQ black grille paint. Perfect semi-gloss black sheen, & should hold up well to the heat.
I also got the P/S head on. Hoping to get the exhaust manifold & other head on in the next day or two.

[b5blue]

 

[bakerhillpins]

Looks wonderful!    Great work. 

That red really changes color with lighting. What color? Assuming it's a 68 with the blue block.

[bill440rt]

Looks wonderful!    Great work. 

That red really changes color with lighting. What color? Assuming it's a 68 with the blue block.

Yeah, the color is PP Scorch Red. Depending on the light, sometimes it's either bright red or deep, dark bloody red. Engine is turquoise. (BTW, the car used to be triple green with a red 318!  )

Made a little more progress over the last week. Got both heads on, and the D/S exhaust manifold. Have to trim a little excess copper sealant that oozed out, 5 min with a razor blade should do the trick.

Steering box is also in & column, just have to finish bolting up the column under the dash.