My '68 Charger Upgrade Thread: Eddy Heads & Plug/HP Manifold Clearance Pics!

[bill440rt]

Thought I'd create a thread here with some projects for my '68 I've had planned for over the winter. Thought I'd get started with them early.
I have 4 projects planned:

1) Edelbrock head swap: I scored a set of Eddy Performer heads brand-new in the box on eGouge from a fairly local seller. He was selling off some stuff from former cancelled projects, so I ended up getting a great deal on them. The cast iron heads on there now are modified a bit, but they are still not the best for my combo.

2) Intake: Swapping an Eddy Performer intake to a CH4B. Got a GREAT deal on one, practically right under my nose.      The CH4B is currently getting bead blasted.  

3) Steering box: Swapping the worn original and the pitman arm for a new Stage 2 unit from Steer-n-Gear.

4) Disc brake conversion: Upgrading from the original manual heavy-duty drums to manual discs from Master Power.

So, I've got the top end of the engine just about all apart. I'll be pulling the heads soon. Exhaust manifolds will be sent out to Jet Hot to get redone, they were ceramic coated about 10 years ago and there are a few questionable spots on them now.
I'll be updating this thread from time to time with progress pics.

[tan top]

  good stuff !!  

   keep the pictures coming !!     ...........

[Bob T]

Thats enough to keep you busy  over the winter.
I'll be keeping an eye out for some tips on your progress  .
Have you already got the Master Power discs? Complete? How much if I could ask?

Cheers Bob

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Bill, keeping the heads aluminum or gonna "hide-em" with paint?

[Brass]

Very cool.  It looks like there were manifolds on the car.  Are you keeping them or will you be putting headers on?

[BananaDan]

Are you going to replace the white zip tie on your heater hoses, or is that OE?    I'm kind of shocked to see that there.  Are you sure that car is a Bill440RT joint?

[bill440rt]

Thats enough to keep you busy  over the winter.
I'll be keeping an eye out for some tips on your progress  .
Have you already got the Master Power discs? Complete? How much if I could ask?

Cheers Bob

Hoping to order the brakes soon, Bob. Yes, they come complete with M/C, prop valve, etc. If memory serves correctly, I think they are in the $725 ballpark range.

Bill, keeping the heads aluminum or gonna "hide-em" with paint?

Top half of the engine will be resprayed turquoise, I want to keep it camoflouged to at least keep a stock appearance. Wrinkle unsilenced air cleaner will also be going back on. 

Very cool.  It looks like there were manifolds on the car.  Are you keeping them or will you be putting headers on?

Keeping the manifolds. I want to keep it "stock" appearing like it was before. Manifolds are just being sent out to Jet Hot to get recoated.

Are you going to replace the white zip tie on your heater hoses, or is that OE?    I'm kind of shocked to see that there.  Are you sure that car is a Bill440RT joint?

Dan, the zip tie is a vintage, date coded piece. Very rare. I scoured the swaps for years trying to find the correct type with the correct color & markings. I bought the very last tub of 1000 just to make sure I would have enough for any future concours resto projects. 
(Actually, it's just there temporarily to hold the engine wiring harness out of the way.) 

[b5blue]

Let us know what/how the convert to manual goes, I did my drums to manual and other than the peddle sitting higher I like it much better. I'll be swapping to 11 3/4 rotor disks next year. What are you running for rockers/valve train on that engine, adjustable? Also I thought Eddy heads had angled plugs requiring headers?   

[bill440rt]

Let us know what/how the convert to manual goes, I did my drums to manual and other than the peddle sitting higher I like it much better. I'll be swapping to 11 3/4 rotor disks next year. What are you running for rockers/valve train on that engine, adjustable? Also I thought Eddy heads had angled plugs requiring headers?   

Hey, b5!
The manual brake pedal does sit higher vs power. So I'm already used to it in this car. The cam is the ol' MP 484/284, so I really don't think it will produce enough vacuum for power brakes.

Rockers will remain the same: tried & true stock stamped steel. The valvetrain probably has less than 4000 miles on it, they're in great shape. It's a mild street engine, so the benefit from adjustable or rollers would be minimal, IMHO.

I spoke to firefighter (Ron) here at length about the heads/manifolds, & he assured me in our conversations that the stock manifolds will work with the Eddy heads.
I certainly hope so now. Anyone have any different info? 

[1970Moparmann]

Don't be dogging Ron - he's the man

Just kidding. 

Keep the pictures coming as your moving along.

[bill440rt]

Don't be dogging Ron - he's the man

Just kidding. 

Keep the pictures coming as your moving along.

I owe Ron a kidney some day from all the advice he's given me!
I'll be the first to admit, I'm primarily a paint & body guy & have somewhat limited mechanical skills. Sure, basics I can do. I've done intakes, carbs, exhaust, suspension rebuilds, brakes, etc, but this is my first head swap in my home garage. So, anytime I hear conflicting info I'm open to ALL comments. Especially if it's something conflicting from Ron's advice. He's never let me down in the past. 

[Charger-Bodie]

Don't be dogging Ron - he's the man

Just kidding. 

Keep the pictures coming as your moving along.

I owe Ron a kidney some day from all the advice he's given me!
I'll be the first to admit, I'm primarily a paint & body guy & have somewhat limited mechanical skills. Sure, basics I can do. I've done intakes, carbs, exhaust, suspension rebuilds, brakes, etc, but this is my first head swap in my home garage. So, anytime I hear conflicting info I'm open to ALL comments. Especially if it's something conflicting from Ron's advice. He's never let me down in the past. 

From what I understand the cam selection is key for running manifolds.

[b5blue]

  Hey Bill! If Ron said they will work....I'm wrong!  I'll be really interested how it all works out as I'm using HP exhaust manifolds and was thinking of using the Mopar/Eddy 452 "replacement" aluminum heads as they don't have the angled plug feature. (As I thought I had to with manifolds instead of headers.)
  I've got to admit I don't have ANY hands on experience ANY aluminum heads....yet. 

[BananaDan]

All done!      

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Sweet!!

[69 OUR/TEA]

Hey Bill,just pull the motor out so you can do it easier on a stand,and while its out,since its out,sand down the eng bay,car,etc,paint black,add some hubcaps and whitewalls,MMMMMMM Bullit car !!!!!!   Just had to say it,I know you would'nt do that !

[bill440rt]

Sweet!!

My thoughts exactly!     Thanks, Dan! 

Hey Bill,just pull the motor out so you can do it easier on a stand,and while its out,since its out,sand down the eng bay,car,etc,paint black,add some hubcaps and whitewalls,MMMMMMM Bullit car !!!!!!   Just had to say it,I know you would'nt do that !

Paul, that's the problem. I KNOW if I pull the motor, it's be another never-ending project. I'd LOVE to have a Bullitt Charger, actually. The thought has crossed my mind before, but it's been red for so long I can't imagine repainting it any other color.

[bill440rt]

So, I got the heads off the other night. Part of the problem before was pinging. I changed carbs/rejetted it, swapped distributors, played with ignition/timing curves, disconnected/reconnected vac advance, etc etc. I never got it to fully go away unless I ran race gas or octane boosters. The timing was so low before it was tough to start & very de-tuned.

This is what I found upon removing the heads. The valves are a very light tan color, and underneath. There is some pretty thick carbon build-up on the pistons as well. I can scrape it off with my fingernail & it wipes with a rag, so cleaning it off shouldn't be a problem. Spark plug color was also a normal tan, a few had very light fuel deposits on them (a little wet) so the plug reading seems normal to me.

Do the valves/pistons look normal to you? Or did I have a pre-existing shi**ty condition going on? 
Obviously the pinging was a problem, but I just want to know if they "look" normal. The pistons are not marred or pitted from the pinging, they are good. Just carbon deposits.

Thanks!!

[bill440rt]

Pics of the pistons.

[Chryco Psycho]

It looks normal to me , it doesn't take very long for carbon to build up on the pistons .
the one cylinder the valves are wet on I assume is from AF as you pulled the head up .
I fit is oil oil burns easier then gas & will cause detonation , but I have seen engine using open chamber heads detonate with as low as 8:1 compression , you need a closed chamber to kill it & combined with quench you can run over 10 :1 on pump gas 

[bill440rt]

It looks normal to me , it doesn't take very long for carbon to build up on the pistons .
the one cylinder the valves are wet on I assume is from AF as you pulled the head up .
I fit is oil oil burns easier then gas & will cause detonation , but I have seen engine using open chamber heads detonate with as low as 8:1 compression , you need a closed chamber to kill it & combined with quench you can run over 10 :1 on pump gas 

Thanks, good to know.
Yep, antifreeze. Made a frikkin' mess.
The Eddy heads going on are the Performer 60929's, they are a closed chamber head. Compression before was about 10.25:1, I'd like to keep that or go up to 10.5:1 if I can with the Eddy heads.

[BigBlockSam]

 

[tan top]

all looks good in there      ,

believe it or not have seen cases of detonation  where  if you look at the piston there are tiny dents in the top like someone has been jabbing a 1/4" wide flat bladed screw driver on them , no joke !  

good pictures !!  

[bill440rt]

all looks good in there      ,

believe it or not have seen cases of detonation  where  if you look at the piston there are tiny dents in the top like someone has been jabbing a 1/4" wide flat bladed screw driver on them , no joke !  

good pictures !!  

Luckily no dents or marks, TT!     All is good, just carbon.

Soo... I dropped off the old & new heads at my machinist. He's going to CC & go thru them. He's also going to come over & check the deck on the block. He'll take measurements, mill the heads as necessary to get the proper compression ratio & make sure the CC's are correct. He said all looked very well at my old heads, good burn & everything appeared normal.

I also heard from Jet Hot this afternoon. My manifolds are ready for shipment back to me, & they did the sleeve nuts as well. Even after 10+ years, they covered them 50% under warranty! Their warranty is usually 3 years, then 50% after that. Great service!

I'll post some more pics later, I should have the steering box out tonite.

[b5blue]

  Good to hear things are shaping up nice Bill. I'm surprised no one commented on your heads using studs instead of bolts, nice touch.     What does Hot Jet cost nowadays?   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Jet Hot also did right by me about 8 years ago when I had mine done as well....just over the 3 year free recoat warranty by about 2-3 months....they gave me the full recoat for free anyway

[bill440rt]

Well, it's been a while since I updated this thread. So here goes...

I got the heads back from my machinist, all checked out. No milling or other machine work was necessary. He came by & measured the piston/deck height, & figured the Fel-Pro 1009 gasket will work well with the final compression ratio dialing in about 10:1. Perfect.

Heads & intake are also now painted turquoise for "camouflage."   

And... the Master Power brake kit came today!! 
Looks like nice stuff. I got the basic manual kit, with plain, non-slotted/drilled rotors. It came with the GM-style brass prop valve, so it looks like I'll be getting lines made up again for the fronts. I think Fine Lines may already produce them, I will be checking with them tomorrow. The brakes come as completely assembled units, ready to bolt-in as an assembly. I will probably paint them as well anyway, so they stay looking nice down the road.

I already started removing the old front drum assemblies.
I'll try to take & upload some pics tomorrow of the progress.

So... I'm getting ready to bolt the heads on.
I have a question for those mechanically inclined:
The heads are attached with studs/nuts. Some of the studs backed out when removing the old heads, so I am reinstalling the studs. Do I need to use any RTV or sealer on the studs, or just thread lube/antisieze?? 
The FelPro gaskets said to put some RTV if the studs are adjacent or go into a water jacket, I'm just not sure.
(Please excuse my mechanical ignorance, this is my first head swap!) 

Thanks all!

[b5blue]

Hot Diggity Bill....no pics?  The head bolt/stud's don't penetrate the water jacket, but don't take that as your answer! Did you coat the heads with any special primer for aluminum? I use to use zinc phosphate on alloy/aluminum parts, (marine use mostly) kinda greenish stuff, seemed to really hold up well in the engine bay. Also will you need to use exhaust manifold gaskets due to the aluminum-iron mating surface? 

[tan top]

 ......      

[bill440rt]

Also will you need to use exhaust manifold gaskets due to the aluminum-iron mating surface? 

Another great question!
So... does anyone know if I need to run gaskets with the HP manifolds with the aluminum Eddy heads?? 


I just used Duplicolor engine primer in a rattle can before painting, B5. That's always worked for me. 

[FrnkNsteen]

Also will you need to use exhaust manifold gaskets due to the aluminum-iron mating surface? 

Another great question!
So... does anyone know if I need to run gaskets with the HP manifolds with the aluminum Eddy heads?? 


I just used Duplicolor engine primer in a rattle can before painting, B5. That's always worked for me. 

I would say you would need to put gaskets between the HP manifolds and the aluminum heads. Seems that B5 felt that way too in his reply right before your question. I would think the aluminum would react with the iron manifolds if you don't use a gasket.

Question for you Bill...... I have manual drums in my '69 SE as well. Where did you get your manual disk kit from, and what did it run you for the whole setup?? I'm thinking I want to switch to disks up front, but want to stay with the manual brakes and not mess with adding a booster.

[bill440rt]

I would say you would need to put gaskets between the HP manifolds and the aluminum heads. Seems that B5 felt that way too in his reply right before your question. I would think the aluminum would react with the iron manifolds if you don't use a gasket.

Question for you Bill...... I have manual drums in my '69 SE as well. Where did you get your manual disk kit from, and what did it run you for the whole setup?? I'm thinking I want to switch to disks up front, but want to stay with the manual brakes and not mess with adding a booster.

I looked up an old thread where Ron (firefighter aka Super Genius) suggested to use just a thin bead of Permatex copper RTV sealant. So... I bought a tube. 
The manifold mating surface is Jet Hot coated as well, so there would be no metal-to-metal contact anyway. I'll use a little sealer just as a precaution.

I got the kit directly from Master Power. It was about $795, and they gave me free shipping. Not bad, I suppose. I dealt with Fred.

Talked to Fine Lines today as well, seems I might not have to use that GM valve after all. They suggested by simply adding in the correct disc brake prop valve & swapping out the main front/rear line, it would be fine. They carry the valves as well. I think I'd rather go this route, at least it will all be correct brake system parts.

Still...gotta...take...photos! 

[b5blue]

 "Super Genius"...you made me chuckle with that one Bill!  Ron is "The Man" and were lucky to have him! I really wasn't "implying" anything about the gaskets and you caught the "dissimilar metals" aspect as I was wondering about. Not just the differential in expansion but corrosion also, on boats that remain in salt water (Especially around other boats hooked to shore power or not properly wired/grounded.) I saw dramatic examples of the corrosive effect that have stuck that point in my head.
Bill your a very thorough builder an I hope to learn from/with you about the aspects of both your mods. For my disk conversion I bought the old school Mopar proportion valve, a rather large brass one I don't even think the make anymore, again avoiding aluminum on my brake system like the newer more compact ones. (Being on the coast of FL. salt is everywhere.) The Disk-O-Tech write up has a section on proportioning valves that lead me to think just adding one would let me retain my original plumbing and adjust it. Like you I'm done with boosters so I'm trying to locate the so far elusive early 70's manual disk brake master cylinder and may change the rear wheel cylinders size to optimize "peddle feel".
Just how the angled plugs on the aluminum heads with H.P. exhaust manifolds work out for clearance for you is the other aspect as it would be great to have more options than just the new aluminum "replacement" 452 Mopar heads.   

[bill440rt]

"Super Genius"...you made me chuckle with that one Bill!  Ron is "The Man" and were lucky to have him! I really wasn't "implying" anything about the gaskets and you caught the "dissimilar metals" aspect as I was wondering about. Not just the differential in expansion but corrosion also, on boats that remain in salt water (Especially around other boats hooked to shore power or not properly wired/grounded.) I saw dramatic examples of the corrosive effect that have stuck that point in my head.
Bill your a very thorough builder an I hope to learn from/with you about the aspects of both your mods. For my disk conversion I bought the old school Mopar proportion valve, a rather large brass one I don't even think the make anymore, again avoiding aluminum on my brake system like the newer more compact ones. (Being on the coast of FL. salt is everywhere.) The Disk-O-Tech write up has a section on proportioning valves that lead me to think just adding one would let me retain my original plumbing and adjust it. Like you I'm done with boosters so I'm trying to locate the so far elusive early 70's manual disk brake master cylinder and may change the rear wheel cylinders size to optimize "peddle feel".
Just how the angled plugs on the aluminum heads with H.P. exhaust manifolds work out for clearance for you is the other aspect as it would be great to have more options than just the new aluminum "replacement" 452 Mopar heads.   

Thanks! All I can say is that I try to research almost everything before turning a wrench. I just don't like to do things twice!! 
From what I've read, the "452" MP heads are basically Eddy heads with straight plugs. The angled plug Eddy heads will work, but is tight around a few plugs so you have to watch out for heat. Firefighter (once again!!) has a little 90-degree heat shield/boot that goes over your spark plug boot. I'll probably invest in a set when putting this back together. It should do the trick.

OK... photos!
Here are the newly coated manifolds back from Jet Hot.
Heads are also painted.

[bill440rt]

Drum brakes are off. I removed them as an assembly.
The Master Power brakes come pre-assembled, so it makes for an easy re-installation.
I'm also swapping out the aftermarket-style sway bar end links. I got a set of the repro correct-looking ones to go back on.

[bill440rt]

M/C & steering box are out.
I cleaned up the block, it's ready for the new heads & intake.

I still gotta get a new valley pan & some other gaskets, so that may be on hold for a while. I can concentrate on getting the disc brakes installed in the meantime.

[b5blue]

  Looking good Bill!

[tan top]

Looking good Bill!

  great stuff     keep the pictures coming 

[BigBlockSam]

 

[firefighter3931]

Looking good Bill !     Those ex manifolds look awesome ! 

Here's a pic of the 90* heat shield designed to fit with the Firecore "factory fit" 8mm wireset. 



Ron

[bill440rt]

Thanks, Ron!  

Yep, those are the shields. Nice & small. I'll def be in touch with you on those!  

I got the brakes bolted up last night. Master Power couldn't make it any easier, they come pre-assembled. The calipers also come pre-painted. I painted the hub area on the rotors with some hi-temp DupliColor caliper paint. I then masked off the rotor and the caliper & cleared the rest with a hi-temp clear from Eastwood that's designed to go over bare metal. That will at least make sure they stay looking nice & not turn into a rusty mess a month down the road.

I have to paint the M/C & install that next. I'll install the brake hoses sometime tonite, & then start bolting on the heads.

[RIDELIKEHELL]

Looking good Bill

[Rolling_Thunder]

looks good brother

[FrnkNsteen]

Ok, I've got a quick, probably stupid, question. In your pics where the discs have been bolted in (which look greast by the way!! I need to do that!!), There's a section of the wheel well (behind the rotor) that's not undercoated and still red....... why?? I'm sure there's a reason. Is that the way they came from the factory? Did they only put undercoat around the outer areas where the tires would fling crap?

Not trying to hijeck your thread..... just curious.

Thanks!

[Ryan]

Ok, I've got a quick, probably stupid, question. In your pics where the discs have been bolted in (which look greast by the way!! I need to do that!!), There's a section of the wheel well (behind the rotor) that's not undercoated and still red....... why?? I'm sure there's a reason. Is that the way they came from the factory? Did they only put undercoat around the outer areas where the tires would fling crap?

Not trying to hijeck your thread..... just curious.

Thanks!

Thats how they were unless the dealer applied more undercoating.

[FrnkNsteen]

Makes sense. Mine originally being a Minnesota car must have had more added at the dealer because they WHOLE wheel well area is heavily undercoated.

Thanks guys!

On with the show!!   

[bill440rt]

Ok, I've got a quick, probably stupid, question. In your pics where the discs have been bolted in (which look greast by the way!! I need to do that!!), There's a section of the wheel well (behind the rotor) that's not undercoated and still red....... why?? I'm sure there's a reason. Is that the way they came from the factory? Did they only put undercoat around the outer areas where the tires would fling crap?

Not trying to hijeck your thread..... just curious.

Thanks!

No such thing as a stupid question! 
I tried doing an online search for a picture of an original car with factory applied undercoating to the front inner fender, couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. Maybe another member on here has a photo on file they can post.
Basically the undercoating went forward, over, & behind the shock tower, leaving that area painted/uncovered of undercoating. My car is also optioned for full factory undercoating, so the whole bottom is covered. If you have heavy undercoating there, my guess is that the dealer or someone else down the road applied it. Or, the guy on the assembly line was feeling generous that day.

On with the show!!   

No leaps & bounds to report. I installed the P/S box from Steer-n-Gear. It's a Stage 2 unit. It had a THIN coat of cast gray on it, even started getting flash surface rust just sitting in the box. I cleaned it up, & painted it semi-gloss black which it should be. I figured it was close to the exhaust manifold, so I used Krylon Hi-Heat BBQ black grille paint. Perfect semi-gloss black sheen, & should hold up well to the heat.
I also got the P/S head on. Hoping to get the exhaust manifold & other head on in the next day or two.

[b5blue]

 

[bakerhillpins]

Looks wonderful!    Great work. 

That red really changes color with lighting. What color? Assuming it's a 68 with the blue block.

[bill440rt]

Looks wonderful!    Great work. 

That red really changes color with lighting. What color? Assuming it's a 68 with the blue block.

Yeah, the color is PP Scorch Red. Depending on the light, sometimes it's either bright red or deep, dark bloody red. Engine is turquoise. (BTW, the car used to be triple green with a red 318!  )

Made a little more progress over the last week. Got both heads on, and the D/S exhaust manifold. Have to trim a little excess copper sealant that oozed out, 5 min with a razor blade should do the trick.

Steering box is also in & column, just have to finish bolting up the column under the dash.

[bill440rt]

New master cylinder is on from MP brakes. I painted it cast gray, then a coat or two of urethane clear. I figured it would hold up well to brake fluid a little better than just rattle can paint alone. MP states DOT5 synthetic will void any warranties, so I didn't want to take any chances. I used Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/4 fluid in the system. Bench bled it, and installed it.

I didn't have the use their GM supplied prop valve, either. Fine Lines hooked me up with a repro disc brake hold-off valve, and a new SS front/rear line. The original main distribution valve is retained.
If I went with the GM valve, I would have had to replace all the front lines completely. Still have to bleed the system.

Over the next week I'm hoping to get the column back up, P/S manifold on, exhaust connected, and the intake/carb on. Who knows, might be ready to fire soon!  

[66chargerkid]

Looks like you are making some great progress. Keep up the good work

[FrnkNsteen]

Looking good!! I'm jealous.... Still in tear-down mode here!!

[bill440rt]

OK, thought I'd post a few more pics. Progress has been slow, but at least moving along.
The engine is a little more together than in these pics, I still have to take & post some more. Some other parts are also back on, didn't get a chance to photo yet. I'm waiting on valve cover gaskets & a carb spacer/gasket so I can keep going.

A few members contacted me about spark plug clearance with the HP manifolds. Some plugs actually clear better, others are a little tighter. All in all they're really not that bad. I took photos of each plug to show how they clear.

[bill440rt]

Here are pics of the P/S head & manifold showing clearance. The D/S plugs went in a little easier than the P/S, but all in all they were not all that difficult to get to.

[bill440rt]

Here are pictures of the D/S manifold/plug clearance. All in all it's not that bad. I'll plan on getting a few of the little heat shields from Firecore to put on a few of them just to be on the safe side.

[b5blue]

Better than I thought Bill! Can you still get a socket on them? 

[bill440rt]

Better than I thought Bill! Can you still get a socket on them? 

They fit better than I thought as well, Neal! I got a spark plug socket on all but one. The P/S one up front. Had to use a spark plug socket with a box wrench on the end of it. No biggie. I have one of those Snap-On ratchets with the swivel end which helps a bit as well on the others.

I got the brakes bled tonite. Props to the wife for helping me with that, her first brake bleed! 

[tan top]

  .....   good work !! 

[bobs66440]

Great stuff!   

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Looks sweet Bill! 

[NHCharger]

Great thread. I've been thinking about upgrading the brakes in my 68.
Bill, why did you decide on using MP Brakes?

[bill440rt]

Thanks, guys! 
Progress is moving along. I got the valve cover gaskets & carb spacer/gasket from Summit today, so I got those parts on tonite. Really looks like an engine once again! It's reassuring that it's coming back together again.

Great thread. I've been thinking about upgrading the brakes in my 68.
Bill, why did you decide on using MP Brakes?

Hi NH!
I decided on the MP brakes because I wanted a "stock" based and appearing kit, and one that was largely complete. I liked the fact that the MP kit was all-new, stock based components and came with the M/C. Similar kits I've seen on eBay & such were missing items such as the M/C and some hardware (like the prop valve), so I didn't want to have to go hunting down additional parts & wondering if they were compatible. Turns out I had to buy a disc hold off valve anyway, not to use the GM-based one included in their kit.
I ran some of the lower priced kits (such as the ones on eBay) and the MP kit by Rick Ehrenberg to get his thoughts. He's always had some great brake tech articles. He said some of them may look the same but had inferior parts, such as cheap Chinese spindles.
Turns out the MP kits were better quality, and after doing online searches of all of my choices the MP ones seemed to have the best feedback on the forums. I don't have much time to scrounge junkyards, and nearly all of them around here are dried up & late model stuff, anyway. I liked the fact that all parts were new, it was complete, and a warranty to boot. Price, I thought, was reasonable.
I didn't want a "bling" brake system for this car, either. It's a nice street car, and I at least try to maintain a "stock" appearance to the modifications. I have a spare set of 14" Magnums & redlines for it besides the Centerlines in case I want to change it back to a stock look. Looks like I'll be upgrading those to 15"s at some point since the 14"s won't fit anymore. 

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

manifolds came out great Bill.  Possibly a fire up & rd test before the salt on the roads?

[bill440rt]

manifolds came out great Bill.  Possibly a fire up & rd test before the salt on the roads?

I sure hope so! They salted after the snow we had at Halloween, but it seems to have washed away by now.
I'm waiting on new rad/heater hoses from Bill Alphin. 
And, I need to order a set of Firecores and the little heat shields. Gotta beat the snow! 

[69 OUR/TEA]

Looks great Bill !!!! Nice upgrade. Can't beleive you panel-painted the heads though,and did'nt blend it down onto the block,LOL !!!! ............You know I'm just messin with ya !

[bill440rt]

Looks great Bill !!!! Nice upgrade. Can't beleive you panel-painted the heads though,and did'nt blend it down onto the block,LOL !!!! ............You know I'm just messin with ya !

Ha!     Good eye, Paul!
Amazing what 10 years of driving will do to the color. Yeah, I thought about it, but looking from up top you don't see it much.
Maybe I should just pull the whole thing, paint the whole engine again and the car black, & drop it back in??    

[69 OUR/TEA]

Looks great Bill !!!! Nice upgrade. Can't beleive you panel-painted the heads though,and did'nt blend it down onto the block,LOL !!!! ............You know I'm just messin with ya !

Ha!     Good eye, Paul!
Amazing what 10 years of driving will do to the color. Yeah, I thought about it, but looking from up top you don't see it much.
Maybe I should just pull the whole thing, paint the whole engine again and the car black, & drop it back in??    

I got the hubcaps and whitewalls for ya !! 

[skip68]

Nice!   

[472 R/T SE]

Looks great Bill !!!! Nice upgrade. Can't beleive you panel-painted the heads though,and did'nt blend it down onto the block,LOL !!!! ............You know I'm just messin with ya !

You wait.  If I know Bill, & I don't.  It'll eat at him every time he opens the hood next summer, so much so that he stops driving it & repaints everything next Fall.   

[resq302]

Looks great Bill !!!! Nice upgrade. Can't beleive you panel-painted the heads though,and did'nt blend it down onto the block,LOL !!!! ............You know I'm just messin with ya !

You wait.  If I know Bill, & I don't.  It'll eat at him every time he opens the hood next summer, so much so that he stops driving it & repaints everything next Fall.   

     

[bill440rt]

Looks great Bill !!!! Nice upgrade. Can't beleive you panel-painted the heads though,and did'nt blend it down onto the block,LOL !!!! ............You know I'm just messin with ya !

You wait.  If I know Bill, & I don't.  It'll eat at him every time he opens the hood next summer, so much so that he stops driving it & repaints everything next Fall.   

     

No... no... NO... willl NOT... won't... AAAARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!! 

[BrianShaughnessy]

Looks great Bill 

   Sinnamon will end up with leftover stock based power disk / drum setup to replace the power drum/drum.   I do like that stock prop valve deal.  Probably works better than the old 70 something valve I was using for awhile.   


   What brand engine paint do you use?     There's a certain big block 69 camero sitting near Sinnamon that has engine paint adhesion problems.     

[HeavyFuel]

[/quote]

No such thing as a stupid question!  
I tried doing an online search for a picture of an original car with factory applied undercoating to the front inner fender, couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. Maybe another member on here has a photo on file they can post.Basically the undercoating went forward, over, & behind the shock tower, leaving that area painted/uncovered of undercoating. My car is also optioned for full factory undercoating, so the whole bottom is covered. If you have heavy undercoating there, my guess is that the dealer or someone else down the road applied it. Or, the guy on the assembly line was feeling generous that day.
[/quote]

ask...and you shall recieve...