73 wire identification

[levix]

So I've bit off more than I can chew and could really use some help with my 73 rewire. I ordered some harness from year one and have them mostly hooked up...I'm running an MSD, AC, and a radiator fan, but right now I'd just like the car to start.

[levix]

More pics

[levix]

So the behavior I'm seeing right now is nothing seems to have power in the key 'on' position. Battery read 12.6V and so does the constant hot on starter terminal / starter motor. I do NOT have the headlight harness hooked up, with the exception of the red / fusible link wire going to the +battery. Engine block and battery both have good grounds.

A) Maybe goes to (C)?
B) No idea.
C) Maybe goes to (A)?
D) No idea.
E) Field?
F) Field?
G) -- Perhaps this is wrong?
H) Temperature of some kind?
I) No idea.
J / K) Jumper together as I want trigger on start AND run.
L) Assuming I need a new ground here.
M) The wire seemed to go here, but not sure.
N) Does this go to the - coil, or since I'm using the MSD I don't need to hook it up?
O) Does this go to the + coil, or since I'm using the MSD I don't need to hook it up?

Apologies for all the pictures, and thanks in advance for the help. If anyone is in the Orlando, FL area I'd be willing to Like I said I'm very much a newbie, and this is turning out to be more difficult than I anticipated.

[Nacho-RT74]

no probs on the pics and in fact they are great, just better if you resize them a little bit smaller.

A-windshield washer

B-Brake fluid dist block switch to light up the dash brake light in case of brake pressure fail

C-A/C Blower--- need an extra harness for that, what usually uses empty cavities left by the rest of wires on bulkhead. Normally the blower on NSS harness, and Compressor on Engine harness

D-Brakes dist block testing circuit plug ( will light up the brakes indicator on dash when grounding this plug )

E-Yes, regulated negative field

F-Yes, constant full ( switched ) positive field

G-its correct, its the alt output.

H-yes

I-Oil sender

J/K- MSD Modules can keep the Ballast and use the + lead of coil ( brown eyelet wire labeled O ) since on these is just a trigger and no need for full 12 volts. Ready Tu run dist needs the full power as you wired in both positions but not MSD modules. OR ALSO an idea posted on O

L-Yes

M-Yes

N-You are correct

O-You are correct. HOWEVER This is the wire you could also use to full power the MSD ( as stated on J/K )  with the jumper you made without need to splice the power to  from the jumper you made. In other words you could just jumper brown and blue traced wires as you did on balllast plugs, and then use this brown wire to trigger the MSD. Of course would need to cut the terminal to splice into the MSD wire.

OR you can modify the ballast if you still wants to get full 12 volts from it, removing the resistor from back and inserting a jumper wire inside the ceramic stuff, mount the ceramic on to the firewall as factory did and still use the brown wire labeled O. This will make a cleaner installation on engine bay without wires or jumpers hanging around.


NOTES.

IS WRONG TO HOOK UP THE STARTER MOTOR INTO RELAY STUD WITH THE THICK BATT WIRE, to much unnecesary load going to that point to feed the Starter motor... Thick Batt wire must run directly to starter motor ( this will eliminate the starter motor wire you mounted ), and the RELAY stud gets a splice wire from batt end itself what can be 8 or even 10 gauge. Rest looks nice

[levix]

Thank you so much Nacho . Just a few more questions:

A-Windshield Washer.

1) Do you mean the washer pump?

C-A/C Blower--- need an extra harness for that

That's why those two harnesses have empty spaces in them!

D-Brakes dist block testing circuit plug

2) So this stays disconnected unless I'm testing the circuit?

3) I'm still not understanding how I am suppose to hook up the MSD. Perhaps a picture would help? (Assume I am using a ballast)

IS WRONG TO HOOK UP THE STARTER MOTOR INTO RELAY STUD WITH THE THICK BATT WIRE, to much unnecesary load going to that point to feed the Starter motor... Thick Batt wire must run directly to starter motor ( this will eliminate the starter motor wire you mounted ), and the RELAY stud gets a splice wire from batt end itself what can be 8 or even 10 gauge. Rest looks nice

Is the diagram correct?

[Nacho-RT74]

1- yes

C-they are empty for whatever reason LOL. 7 terminals conectors are not available just 8 or 4 LOL. 74s for example have the A/C harness through firewall with a grommet because 74s engine harness plug got all cavities full for other reasons, extra equipment earliers don't have. At the end everything depends on the extra equipment optiosn of teh car ( you can get a tach for example and one of those cavities are used ). However, YES, normally 72s and 73s get  AC harness splitted between those two conectors

2-yes. just floating around.

3- will work on that. you are making it right to power it however IMHO there are cleaner ways to make it, and no need to cut and splice wires what is what everybody makes. Is just about preferences

last:
yes just right that

[levix]

UPDATE:

I am now running a 4 gauge wire from the Bat (+) to the starter motor, and have removed the large gauge wires on the relay stud. 

I'm not sure what the previous owner did, but I had to run a wire from the alt. output to the relay stud in order to get it to crank. I checked the bulkhead and actually removed the dash cluster only to find that they cut BOTH sides of the ammeter and had made a ton of splices... I'll deal with that later, but right now I'm still struggling to get the MSD hooked up. I ordered a ballast resistor and have decided that will make a cleaner install, however as it stands right now I feel like I should be getting a spark and I'm not.

I have the MSD wired as per the diagram, however:
1) Where should the 'little' red wire go? It's going to the ballast resistor at the moment
2) Is anything else hooked up to the coil besides the two MSD wires?

[Nacho-RT74]

1... check the previous J/K and O answer LOL... thats simply a trigger ON signal to turn on the Module
2... No