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orange peel

Started by Brightyellow69rtse, August 25, 2011, 08:50:24 PM

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Brightyellow69rtse

i figured id spray my front valance before i try the engine bay. it came out real glossy and theres no runs but its kinda orange peely. any reccomendations?

DC_1

Base /clear or single stage? Metalic or solid colour?

Wet sand and polish, you'll be fine unless metalic.

69*F5*SE


Cooter

Yep, even the best painters cannot get by the "Orange peel" texture of the paint when sprayed. Time to cut and buff. Now you will see why paint jobs cost so much for that slick as glass look.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Brightyellow69rtse

single stage. i sprayed half of the valance with 2009 camaro yellow and the other half 2005 mitsubishi lancer lightning yellow. i tried the lancer paint before and it appeared to change tone after a few days. so i shot it with both colors and after a few days ill compare it to the car then pick the color thats the closest to the color of the car.

what grit paper should i use and what do you reccomend for polishing? thanks guys  :2thumbs:

Canadian1968

Well your lucky , you get to try this with Yellow for your first time. The lighter the colour the more you can get away with !!

But I would start with 1000 - 1200 Grit WET - sandpaper. Make sure it is wetsand paper, as regular paper will only last a few seonds.  Use this grit to remove the orange peel , constantly wipe the area dry to see your progress.  You want to get a consistant flat, dull surface with no shiny spots.  Important, you do not need to put much pressure when wetsanding , the paper will stick to the surface with the water , you will feel it cutting ( also be able to notice when your paper is worn and not cutting any more) . More pressure will create excessive deep scraches.  Let the paper do the work !!

Once you have this, I would move down to 1500 or 2000 grit. You do not need to spend very long wiht this step, as you are simply trying to remove the 1000-1200 scratches.

Finally I would finish with 2500 or lower. 3M makes a product called Trizac which is a green faced foam pad rated for 3000 grit that works very well.

After this you are onto buffing. If you are planning on doing more wetsanding it the future , invest in a decent electric or air polisher with correct buffing pads.

Choose a good quality cutting compound. I would ask at your local paint store for what they suggest as this will be dependant on your location. Popular brands here are 3M and Farecla . Begin buffing the surface, start slow untill you get used to it,  to fast can cause you to burn the paint ( by fast I mean 3500RPM). Bring the area up to a nice solid gloss, remember alway keep the buffer moving.

Once you are happy, use a polishing compound to get rid of any swirl marks left by cutting compound.  You will need a different pad for this as well.  Finally you can use a hand polish or wax to finish the job.  Have fun and take your time !!

Patronus

Trizac=3000g=$140 a box!! My supplier says guys come in looking for single pads...
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Canadian1968

I never said it was cheap lol !!! But it is a product that works very well!!

DC_1

Quote from: Canadian1968 on August 27, 2011, 08:51:14 AM
I never said it was cheap lol !!! But it is a product that works very well!!


Yep, 3M Trizact pads and Perfect-It Componds are great. That's all I use now. Farecla was what I use to use but I like the 3M system and find it makes things nice and flat as well as the blue glaze takes out all the swirl marks.

This video might help you.

http://youtu.be/v5QieABhjl4

Brightyellow69rtse

thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it! im just doing the front valance and engine bay. im not going for a show winning job here even if i didnt wetsand anything it would be 100times better than it was. the paint on the car is pretty good but the engine bay was pretty bad. im definatly gonna wetsand it though do its atleast decent.

dodgechar

    Looks like  Canadian 1968 covererd it well.   When you do go to your engine comp. be sure that greese is all gone,  dry, clean, or orange peel wil be the last problem. I  used to use dupont  3812 enamel reducer to clean it worked well.  I'M  sure  there's  better stuff now.  orange peel comes for lots reasons ,but you stand to  close & pour to slow you know. keep it movin. Also  if the rest of paint on the cars ok.  You may get  someting in the way of deoxidation.  Used TR-3 resein glaze.    Shinney is good.

Brightyellow69rtse

its all sealed now and all the paint stuck well. so loks like i did get all the grease off. i used dupont nason etch primer then i used some 2k grey high build primer. hopefully next weekend i can get to shooting the color if the weather is good.