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1st Start in over 5 Years! But no brakes or steering.....

Started by moparfreak, August 11, 2011, 09:15:56 PM

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moparfreak

Hey folks, so after a lengthy transmission rebuild, I finally got the '73 SE started, once I poured a bit of fuel into the carb and gave it a capable battery (optima), it fired instantly! I'll consider it a victory.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aA3mprT6J_Y

But, once I got ready to put it in gear to check if I had done the rebuild correctly, I found that:

1) Brake pedal went to the floor: I checked the fluid level and it was a couple inches low, topped it off, pumped the brakes and got good pedal feel. But, then once i started the car up again, the pedal went right back to the floor. I haven't ever noticed any leaks, and the brakes are visibly in good shape. I figure I'll start by bleeding them out and see where that takes me. Any other suggestions?

2) Power steering pump made a LOT of noise when I turned left and right. Checked the fluid level and it was empty (!!). I filled it back up, restarted, and it still made a severe grinding noise. It's probably trashed. I later noticed the pump leaking out the new fluid, so obviously over the years it leaked out w/o me noticing and was bone dry. That's my fault. How is a power steering pump replacement? Easy? Anywhere I should look? I saw on Rockauto it's ~$60 or so, so that's not too bad. Any brands I should look for?

I'm real excited to get this fixed up and on the road. I haven't started it since 2005 and haven't driven it since 2002, so it's been a long time coming!!

Thanks,
Adam

resq302

Changing out a power steering pump is a lot easier than changing out the gear box.  while you are replacing the pump, I would put new rubber lines on it also!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

moparfreak

Alright, took the pump out, that was easy. What's the best way to change out the pulley from the old pump to the new one? Do I need any type of special tools (assuming I'll need some sort of puller).

Thanks,
Adam

resq302

mine had a nut and a key way in it.  I used an impact gun to take it off and held onto the pulley.  After the nut was off, I put some PB blaster on the shaft where the nut was and let it soak, then took a block of wood and a mallet and tapped on the shaft till the pulley loosened up.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto