409053 - original owner daytona

[held1823]

more pieces in hand.

wallet meltdown - complete.

[panhead]

Looking good  . I'm happy for yeah brother!!!
You've came along way in a years time.

Curt

[held1823]

Looking good  . I'm happy for yeah brother!!!
You've came along way in a years time.

Curt

i'm definitely a lot poorer in a year's time, my friend.  i think it's a good investment in the end, though.

hopefully the crazy weather has missed you guys.

just noticed this is my 2,000th post.  i should use it to ask if anyone has a sketch handy of where to cut for the fender scoops. we need to get that done, as well as make the cut at the bottom for the valance. i thought i had saved photos that mike g posted, marking out exactly where to do both, but can't find them

[held1823]

while on the scoop discussion, i may or may not have a concern with mine. i doubt it amounts to anything, but i need to get them up against the fenders to tell.

they are a mirror image of each other in every aspect, save for one being about 1/8" inch taller than the other. there is perhaps a very slight difference in the bevel along the edge of them. i doubt either  would never be noticeable.

my only concern is should this 1/8" be somewhere along the bottom edge, that it keeps the scoop from fitting flush. i'm not about to start filing material off of one, until the experts weigh in, so i guess i need to get photos on them sitting on the fenders

[held1823]

ted's craftsmanship is every bit as nice as it ever was. the scoops are works of art, as are his valance and buckets.

[held1823]

i had discussed with mike about making a metal valance, and will likely still do so later on when he isn't swamped.

using ted's glass piece will do for now, and allow me to toss a few dollars somewhere else at the project

[held1823]

headlight doors look great.

any diagrams and/or recommendations on where to make the required cuts?

since it's a real daytona, ted also recommended i have him remove the molded in stops, so i will need to fabricate the correct metal ones.

any ideas on the best method?

[DAY CLONA]

headlight doors look great.

any diagrams and/or recommendations on where to make the required cuts?

since it's a real daytona, ted also recommended i have him remove the molded in stops, so i will need to fabricate the correct metal ones.

any ideas on the best method?

Here's how I usually do a preliminary trim out on customers headlite doors...

[DAY CLONA]

while on the scoop discussion, i may or may not have a concern with mine. i doubt it amounts to anything, but i need to get them up against the fenders to tell.

they are a mirror image of each other in every aspect, save for one being about 1/8" inch taller than the other. there is perhaps a very slight difference in the bevel along the edge of them. i doubt either  would never be noticeable.

my only concern is should this 1/8" be somewhere along the bottom edge, that it keeps the scoop from fitting flush. i'm not about to start filing material off of one, until the experts weigh in

I'll agree Ted's Daytona fender scoops are perhaps the best out there, Ted usually tweaks the original parts before molding off them...which is OK, but regardless of scoops being original/NOS or repro, they will all have gaps if left as trimmed, there is a drivers side and a passenger side, you'll see that as you sit each one on a fender...

to get a nice fit on the fender, don't waste your time grinding here and there constantly fitting it, more grinding/sanding only to end up with a drastically smaller scoop height, or junk... instead locate where the scoop needs to be, then use some 80 grit sandpaper either in large roll form, or 2 to 3 sheets of 8"X11" paper if you can't find a roll, and use some DA/tack spray glue to glue the sheet(s) to the top of the fenders were the scoops are located, then just run the scoop back and forth approx 2-3" front to rear maintaining a nice parallel stroke with the scoop to the fender, takes awhile, but produces a totally gap less fit around the perimeter of the scoop base to the fender, basically your using the fender to block sand the scoop to shape...FYI the rear lower edge of the scoop opening is located approx 16 inches +/- 1/4" from the rear edge of the hood/or where the cowl area butts up to the inner section of the fender, either rear point location is the same for measurement, and the scoops are centered on the fenders side to side wise

Mike

P.S. I'll see if I can dig out the hole location measurement for you

[held1823]

thanks, mike. that bucket photo is exactly what i needed.

good info on the scoops. the contours on these are perfect mirror images of one another, so i don't expect to need much fine tuning to get them flush.

if i hadn't set them side by side, the ever so slight height difference would never have been noticed at all. i imagine originals were all over the place

is it best to just tap into the stud holes themselves, or would you push in a threaded metal sleeve?

thanks again for your fantastic looking parts and all of the advice.

[held1823]

moved the car out to the buddy's shop this afternoon to finally swap out the core support. kind of liking the view in the truck's mirror.

any pro tips on placement of the core support to latch tray bracket? weld points - how many, what pattern, and where? does the bracket simply sit against the lip of the core support, or is there a gap? i assume the side to side measurements depend on where the z-brackets fit, allowing the bolt holes in both the bracket and latch tray to line up and create the "box". i took measurement photos of john's car to double check the height but did not get the side to side ones.  

[Daytona R/T SE]

That's a SuperBird latch tray bracket you have pictured there.

You'll need to get the proper one for a Daytona.  

[held1823]

that bracket was not mine.  i used a stolen photo hoping to better show detail, since it's hard to see in the only photo of mine that i can find right now. i deleted the swiped photo to avoid more confusion, lol

i deleted most of this post altogether after taking another look at the car today. i was way off on my thinking of where the bracket mounts.

[held1823]

this photo of gene's car is the best one i can find to illustrate my question. it looks like the latch tray mounts higher than i first thought.

perhaps this will make more sense to me when we get the core support changed and can actually get the parts up to it, but it's hard to picture that flat bracket not sitting on something to (a) help support it and (b) weld it to.

these are the right, center, and left measurements taken from john's car. i guess i should stop over thinking it and just match mine up to this.

[panhead]

Good morning Ernie

Looks like things are on the move for you. I bet that felt good seeing it in the rear view mirror!!!

One step closer my friend 

Curt

[Mopar John]

Ernie,
Looks GREAT on the move!
MJ

[held1823]

more pieces to the puzzle now in hand.

gaskets came from Detroit Muscle Technologies

fender screens provided by our own Mr. Perkins.

[held1823]

the 22 inch core support is now out of the car.

[held1823]

cleaned off the unholy welds from the core support replacement done back in the early 1980's

right side - hopefully i get these in order.

[held1823]

and the left.

there is some impact damage to smooth out in the area around the battery tray.

if someone has a clear shot or two of how the contour should look here, could you email them my way?

you can see the problem area in the third and also the last three photos here.

[held1823]

first two photos are some of the crap that was removed. all i can figure is dad never looked close at the repair, or the shop made him a crazy low repair offer.

it's also entirely possible he just wanted it back on the road, and didn't care what this area looked like.

you have to remember, this was/is not a collector car.  it was bought brand new, to use and abuse year round as a daily driver.

the last two photos are of the correct support i got from john. time to straighten the left inner apron, then install the support

you can see the beginning of the contoured area that i mentioned needing photos of on the left side of it

once it is in place and the latch tray support welded to it, we will start fitting the nose.

after talladega, we can start the complete disassembly fun. hopefully santa brings me a rotisserie

[taxspeaker]

Ernie I'm right down the road why don't you come down 1 day and take all the pictures and measurements you want-I can put mine on the lift and you can go crazy
Bob

[held1823]

Ernie I'm right down the road why don't you come down 1 day and take all the pictures and measurements you want-I can put mine on the lift and you can go crazy
Bob

thanks for the offer bob, i certainly won't rule it out, even if for nothing more than to just visit and check out the fleet. larry bell's car is sitting just a half mile from my house, and gary (my buddy/body man) has taken several measurements from it already. our only issue with access to it is larry's jet setting ways, lol

this area is tough to view/photograph with the battery and vacuum can in place. i need to comb through a few of the restoration threads here, and might find several views. we spent two hours this evening mulling over whether to repair or just replace the left, and perhaps both, apron(s). i'm about to see what is the best deal i can find on a pair from amd. list price  is 429/pair, i think, and it's carlisle deal time in three weeks.

[Mopar John]

Ernie,
We had to replace a section behind the battery on our Daytona restoration.
Go to my B5 Daytona restoration thread replies # 341 and #342 from March 24th 2010.
There are before and after pictures for you on the battery tray area!
MJ

[70Sbird]

Not sure if this helps or not since it's my Superbird...but it was handy and of the area behind the battery tray/can.
Good luck!
Scott