Opinions on PPG OMNI single stage paint?

[b5blue]

   It's still "down the road" for me but I'm thinking of using Omni on the Charger. I'm looking for a decent paint for a daily driver that I can get in a true shade of B5Blue. This will not be a show car and I'm resigned to the inevitable nicks, dents and scratches. My supplier suggested it as reasonable @ around 250 give or take per gallon.    

[jaak]

Its pretty thin, takes a lot to cover well. I have also used Nason (Dupont's cheaper brand), and I think it covers better than OMNI does. Another thing about cheaper brands like OMNI, Nason, etc. is the color match isn't perfect, but if you are doing a complete job, that isn't a big issue.



Jason

[moparguy01]

I've used omni with good luck. I personally feel it covers much better than DuPonts paint. But I've also seen color match issues.

[bill440rt]

It sucks. Worst paint I've ever used. I'd use a cheap single stage acrylic enamel such as DuPont Centari before using Omni again.

I used it on the underside & inside the trunk floor, etc on my '69, took 5 coats of Sublime & it STILL didn't cover in some areas 100%. However, I also did the white on the inside door frames in Omni, which was admittedly better but I wasn't wowed about it.

Both colors were piss thin. I guess if you're doing black or white you'd be OK, but there are other paint alternatives which are probably better.

[Kern Dog]

I have had decent luck with Omni products, but for a little more money, I'd go PPG. Much better.
Another consideration: If you intend to shoot B5 blue, go with a 2 stage paint. As a hobbyist, I'm guessing that your skills are probably like mine. NOTHING I paint is perfect. There are often dirt, drips, runs, orange peel or a stray bug that ends up in the paint. I have to cut and buff every paint job to make them look right. No problem with sanding and buffing single stage UNLESS it is a metallic. The metallic particles that are suspended in the paint get disrupted when they are sanded. The result is often milky or cloudy appearance or swirls that will not buff out. Not good. This is why metallics should be done in basecoat/clearcoat. The clear can be sanded and buffed, leaving the color underneath undisturbed.

[AKcharger]

I used Omni when I did my back in '70 in 2003, went on fine, and still looks great 8 years later. Only thing we did diffrent was install the rear stripe then lay 3 coats of clear over it.

[GPULLER]

It's great paint, have painted several tractors with Omni.  I feel its real easy to work with, and is very durable.  Wouldn't have a problem using on your Charger.  Actually Omni is about the only PPG line LL1 for my Charger can be mixed in so when it comes time for a paint job it will be Omni base/clear.

[dodgechar]

dupont imron  polyurathane,   holds up in the long run,  sun, chips, door dings,ect.   dont know about match thou, or price,   covers well metalic or solid,  do it once, not again down the road with more paint under to deal with.   old school i know.

[jaak]

I have had decent luck with Omni products, but for a little more money, I'd go PPG. Much better.
Another consideration: If you intend to shoot B5 blue, go with a 2 stage paint. As a hobbyist, I'm guessing that your skills are probably like mine. NOTHING I paint is perfect. There are often dirt, drips, runs, orange peel or a stray bug that ends up in the paint. I have to cut and buff every paint job to make them look right. No problem with sanding and buffing single stage UNLESS it is a metallic. The metallic particles that are suspended in the paint get disrupted when they are sanded. The result is often milky or cloudy appearance or swirls that will not buff out. Not good. This is why metallics should be done in basecoat/clearcoat. The clear can be sanded and buffed, leaving the color underneath undisturbed.

I also agree with using BC/CC if you have little experience with single stage metallic paint.

Jason

[b5blue]

Hey THANKS for the input guys!   
The plan is to get it derusted and prepped with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. When ready to shoot I'll be bringing in a hired gun so a single stage urethane should do. (It's gonna spend some time semi gloss black.) For now I could live with some blemishes and light orange peel.
I see many clear coats failing around here (Factory and repaints) and think it may have something to do with Florida's relentless sun and humidity. I'm hoping a few years down the road to replace the quarters and much of the back end so then would be the time I get really serious on paint.   

[Silver R/T]

Like it's been said before, if you're painting whole car with it, Omni would be fine. Personally I'd go with base/clear system. You want to use appropriate sealer under the color ie gray under dark blues, white under lighter colors (whites, yellows, oranges) Sealer provides better color hideout so you're using less paint.

[elitecustombody]

Look into Matrix,same or better price,has amazing coverage and easy to apply,been using it for long time and would never hesistate to use it even on high end cars,I guarantee my work for life and use it all the time.

[b5blue]

Thanks! 

[Cooter]

Think "Omni" doesn't cover well? Just wait until the water based, EPA Mandated, paints come online throughout the country...

It's already here in some bodyshops and this stuff is hard as hell to shoot...Like painting a car with candy coat entirely...