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Broken Exhaust stud in head **UPDATE**

Started by Skyview69, July 05, 2011, 08:56:40 PM

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Skyview69

I have a broken Exhaust stud in the head  :flame: Any ideas to get it out?  I took it to a machine shop and he could not get it out but it also looks like he didn't even try....he suggested taking it to somplace with a EDM machine but I don't have cash for that.   :shruggy:

Any other tips?

Cooter

I assume the head is off the engine, as you "Took it to a machine shop"...

I have drilled the stud first, then applied a little heat with a torch and gotten them to trun, but it was a LONG, drawn out process..Be prepared for it take a long time if it comes out at all...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

skyhawk61

Quote from: Skyview69 on July 05, 2011, 08:56:40 PM
I have a broken Exhaust stud in the head  :flame: Any ideas to get it out?  I took it to a machine shop and he could not get it out but it also looks like he didn't even try....he suggested taking it to somplace with a EDM machine but I don't have cash for that.   :shruggy:

Any other tips?
      You can most likely get it out with an electric drill and a "left-handed" drill bit. (The bit is designed to work with a normally reversed rotation)
Use lots of penetrating oil and be sure to drill straight. As the drill penetrates, the broken stud will usually back itself right out.  I've done these on the car...had to drill a hole in the fender well, but the broken stud came out. You can get the bit at most machinery supply stores

FLG

Did it break nearly flush??

If so, take a flat fender washer (the washers that have a big surface area) weld the washer to the stud, than weld a nut to the washer. Go slowly, tight first than loose slowly working the stud out. The weld might break, if so just go at it again (the heat will help get things loose) worked for me quite a few times...

:2thumbs:

Rolling_Thunder

been there...     done that.....        Drill and apply heat...     sometime heating it and using wax will help
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Skyview69

Yes the head is off the engine. The break is not quite flush...the stud is a hair below the surface.  I'll try drilling it out with some heat and hope for the best.  Thanks again for the tips  :2thumbs:

FLG

Even if its not quite flush the welding will work, it wont stick to the cast iron

71wrenchhead

ive used that welding a washer and nut trick a bunch of times, works really well!
Got slapped by my wife for keeping an engine in the bedroom........yeah, pretty much sums up my life

Skyview69

The washer and nut sounds like a good option.  hopefully I will get to it htis weekend.  Thanks again...i'll keep you posted  :2thumbs:

Skyview69

I was able to get to work on the head last night.  First we tried the drill routine...man the drill barely put a dent in the broken stud  :rotz:

So we decided to try FLG's tip with to weld a washer and nit to the stud....    :notworthy:

THIS METHOD REALLY WORKS!!!  THANKS FOR THE TIP!!!!  :2thumbs: It took 15 minutes and on the third attempt the broken stud unscrewed with ease.  Thanks man!!

:cheers:

FLG


Charger-Bodie

68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

tan top

thats good to hear !!


that way has worked for me many times :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

john108

Hi
Would someone please post a picture and explain how to do the "weld a washer and nit to the stud"

Thank you

FLG

Just as it sounds,

You take the washer and place it over the broken stud, start welding in the hole which causes the washer to get welded to the stud, than weld a nut to the washer that you just welded to the stud. Than take the correct size wrench and start turning the washer/nut combination you just welded to the stud.

Heres a video i found,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T0qegbNlnY

Everyone has a different technique, as you can see the screw is very small so i would have done the same and welded the nut right to the broken stud. For the larger ones like on the heads i find it easier to weld the washer on there first  (more so if you dont have a helper) because you can tack the big washer on there and than weld it up where as the nut tends to be a bit more difficult at times, but if you wanted you could weld the nut right to the stud.

john108

Thank you FLG
I recently tried that with one of the Harbor Freight wire feed welders.  It didn't melt the Bolt or Nut.  It acted like a solder joint and broke quickly.
Not enough heat. I had about 1/4 in of the bolt sticking out and placed a nut onto/around it, but failed.

Skyview69

We welded the washer first and then the nut to the washer.  We did it three times because the first two tries they broke right off...but on the third try it worked like a charm...i think mainly because the heat finally soaked in and loosened up the stud. Like I said...only took 15 minutes.  :2thumbs:

FLG

Quote from: Skyview69 on July 17, 2011, 08:12:41 PM
We welded the washer first and then the nut to the washer.  We did it three times because the first two tries they broke right off...but on the third try it worked like a charm...i think mainly because the heat finally soaked in and loosened up the stud. Like I said...only took 15 minutes.  :2thumbs:


:yesnod: :yesnod:

It usually takes a few times, get the nut glowing red..all the heat from the welding is what frees things up.