Need help removing companion flange

[sixpack_sid]

I'm working on installing the drive shaft on my 68 Charger 440 engine. It has the 8 3/4 rear and when I was putting in the bolts, one snapped off. I need to remove the companion flange where the driveshaft mounts to the axle.How do I remove it? I see there's a nut on there. If I take that nut off will the flange come off, or will other pieces come off with it?
Thanks!

[nvrbdn]

if you just need the bolt out, can you "easy=out" the broken bolt and move on?

[sixpack_sid]

I don't know, it was really tight when I was putting it in, it didn't go in all the way and snapped off. The bolt snapped off flush with the flange. That's why I was wondering how to take the flange off so I could work on getting the bolt out.

[nvrbdn]

that is where the easy-out would work its best.being broke off level would make it easier to drill the center hole. i would try that before taking it all apart.

[six-tee-nine]

From my expierience as a mecanic, I dont think the easy-out will work.

The bolt is really locked up in the hole being forced in there......Usually when a bolt head snappes off the bolt is stuck bad....

I'm affraid this is bad news and you will need to pull the carrier and put 2 nuts on the remaining thread and try to get it out.

[Cooter]

If your having problems installing a driveshaft, then I'd be leary of you pulling that flange and getting the Preload on the center section [IE Pinion bearings] Off and never right again....


You need to replace the entire flange with a new one...Either you cross threaded it, or it had rust inside the threads and you didn't clean them before installing the bolt....Word to the wise, NEVER keep on tightening a bolt/nut if it is tight all the way down...You are gonna break it off....You will never get that bolt out of that flange...Trust me.

[sixpack_sid]

Back to my original question then, how do I remove the flange and will any other pieces come off with it? Will I mess up anything inside if I take that big nut off? I do have a spare parts car that should have the same flange on it. Can I swap it out? I don't want to pull it apart and mess anything else up.

[gtx6970]

Yes, if you take the large center nut off, the flange will ( should) slid off.
If the small bolt snapped of due to an interference fit, the chances you going to get it out with an easy out is extremely doubtful
IMO, replace said flange and move on


That said,
IMO, before you loosen or remove anything.

Take a preload measurement on said large pinion nut with a beam or dial torque wrench.

Than  way it can be re-installed with no or at least minumul changes to pinion bearing pre-load

[maxwellwedge]

On a Dana, re-applying the proper torque on the yoke wont cause any problems.

On an 8-3/4........A newer, bigger can of worms could develop.

Drill and Heli-Coil would be my vote

[el dub]

Try some Break Free or CLP, then the easy out.

[John_Kunkel]

The only 8 3/4" center section that needs a preload measurement is the (crush sleeve ) 489, all others can be removed/reinstalled with no other action required.

Whether or not the broken threads are candidate for an EZ-out depends on why it broke; if it was just over-tightened and broke off, an EZ-out should work but if it was bound up and snapped off it will probably need to be drilled and retapped.

[sixpack_sid]

I tried drilling out the bolt, but the bit broke off inside. I am hesitant to try and drill it out again where it sits. I don't want to cause more damage. I'd rather pull the flange. I have the 68 Charger with the 8 3/4 rear, but I was told there were 2 different kinds made-the last 2 numbers on the casting are either 42 or 89.  If it's the #42, I can pull the flange without messing anything up. Like John_Kunkel said, the #89 is where they used the crush sleeve for the preload on the bearings.
I can't find the casting # on mine. I took a wire brush to it, but I only see a #2 on the drivers side about an inch big. No other #s. Does anyone know where I can find the #s? Would the VIN # help me figure it out at all? Is there any other way to tell which rear it is?
Thanks for all the replies!

[John_Kunkel]

A large 2 on the side means it's a 742 so go ahead and remove the flange. Torque the nut to 240 ft. lbs. on reinstallation.

[sixpack_sid]

Ok, I'm going to take the nut off the flange. Can I do it with the rear tires on the ground? Will it roll? I'm having trouble braking the nut loose. The wheels are chocked on both sides but it's rolling a little when I try to loosen the nut. I put some PB on it, it's not budging. This is a right hand thread, right? Any suggestions on how to get it off without the car rolling on me?
Thanks!

[nvrbdn]

i was gona use the joke of " let the wife turn the wrench"  but i wont cuz you need advise not jokes. sorry

[y3chargerrt]

An impact wrench will make you life much easier.

[sixpack_sid]

I went back to trying to extract the broken bolt rather than remove the flange. I tried to weld a washer & nut on the end of the bolt, but the weld wouldn't hold. After like 13 attempts i decided to keep welding on the bolt itself til  I got enough slag on it to get a vice grip on the weld itself and turned out the bolt. I then chased the threads with a tap set and the new bolt went in really nice! 
Thanks for all the replies!

[sixpack_sid]

Here's a pic of the  broken bolt! Sorry it's blurry but you can see where I welded onto it.

[Steve P.]

Great news....  Keep in mind that a good tap and die set is your absolute best friend when working on old cars...  

Oh, and plenty of cutting oil too..........   

[maxwellwedge]

I went back to trying to extract the broken bolt rather than remove the flange. I tried to weld a washer & nut on the end of the bolt, but the weld wouldn't hold. After like 13 attempts i decided to keep welding on the bolt itself til  I got enough slag on it to get a vice grip on the weld itself and turned out the bolt. I then chased the threads with a tap set and the new bolt went in really nice! 
Thanks for all the replies!

The best way to get that nut off is with a hoist and a 300' breaker bar!   

Glad you get it fixed up.   

[FLG]

Nice! Ive used the welding washer/nut method quite a bit