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Spun bearing, I think...

Started by ugly2u, June 10, 2011, 11:14:43 AM

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ugly2u

Sounds really bad. I'm guessing a spun bearing.

Having never replaced a spun bearing, can I just take out the motor and replace the affected parts? I assume that would be the crank, bad bearing(s), and rod(s)?

Or do I need to take apart the entire motor?

Just trying to wrap my head around the work I'm going to do this weekend....

Thx

tan top

whats the oil pressure ??   is the motor noisey all the time ?   or only at certain revs ? does the oil pressure drop then also ??
how was you driving  when  you  hurt something ??  did you shut it down straight away ?

hard to tell with out hearing  & looking inside   :scratchchin: :popcrn:  :shruggy:
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Brass

I'd drop the pan to take a look.  There may be bearing flakes in the oil and the connecting rod cap may be discolored from the heat.  If you remove the cap, you can also inspect the journal for wear and take measurements to determine whether its still round and within spec.  It could probably be pieced together but I wouldn't count on any longevity.  If you spun a bearing its probably a good time for a rebuild.  Especially since metal particles may have been pumped through the engine.

ugly2u

Okay it's a rebuild, I bet. I started taking it out today.

Leave the trans on or take it off? What do you prefer?

While I got it out, I'm gonna replace the cam or grind it...change it to a stroker? Would that help my 1/4 mile time? What else do ya do "while ya got it out..."

Wish list?

ugly2u

It's out, finally....but the bottom end is not showing any obvious heat damage or metal chunks.  :RantExplode:

Had to cut the exhaust to get the driver side manifold out. It's tight in there and I couldn't get a wrench on a flange bolt.

Gonna dig into the top end tomorrow.




elacruze

Loose converter bolts have been known to cause engine rebuilds, too....got any tracks behind the flex plate?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

ugly2u

No tracks behind the flex plate, but I found a bent electrode on plug #3. I have not looked under the valve covers yet. I hope to have some time tomorrow.

All 4 plugs on the driver side are black and have wet oil on them. I have not pulled the other side plugs.

The motor has less than 6000 miles since rebuild.  :eek2:

HPP

Quote from: elacruze on June 13, 2011, 09:34:20 AM
Loose converter bolts have been known to cause engine rebuilds, too....got any tracks behind the flex plate?

I've seen that before.

I've also spun bearings that didn't make any noise before being found.

Definetly need to get into it for an inspection.

ugly2u

pulled the valve covers and valley pan, no obvious damage. push rods look straight, when spun around.

how do I test the lifters?

Any chance the transmission would make a noise like a spun bearing, loud knocking, if it is in neutral. Its a 727.

Looks like Im pulling the heads tomorrow.

elacruze

Quote from: ugly2u on June 17, 2011, 05:47:51 PM
pulled the valve covers and valley pan, no obvious damage. push rods look straight, when spun around.

how do I test the lifters?

Any chance the transmission would make a noise like a spun bearing, loud knocking, if it is in neutral. Its a 727.

Looks like Im pulling the heads tomorrow.

I once had a 350 Chevy that knocked real hard at an idle-the converter had ballooned and worn out the thrust bearing to the point that the crank flyweight was contacting the main journal, but above idle it moved back enough not to make noise.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

ugly2u

Seems like a collapsed lifter, maybe? Pushing down on a few lifters, and there was no movement or spring back, while others had plenty.

How can I verify that theory? Would bad lifters make nasty knocking noise?

Also, #8 plug was oil fouled and the cylinder had about 1/2 oz of oil in it. I'm guessing valve seal.

Looks like I will drop the heads off to be reworked, and the short block to have it checked. I'v never built an engine, but I can follow instructions. I'm guessing I should leave this part to the pros? Any thoughts?