Lube both ends of the torsion bar?

[bull]

I understand that the rear mounting pocket for the torsion bar was lubed with what looks like wheel bearing grease but I don't recall seeing any lube at the front end where it plugs into the LCA. Is that how it's supposed to be?

[John_Kunkel]

I've never seen any evidence of grease at the front but I always do apply a thin coat of grease.

[Charger-Bodie]

I agree. I usually rolok the paint off and apply some anti-sieze.

[bull]

Rolok? 

Never sieze is a good idea. Why not in the back too?

[Charger-Bodie]

Rolok? 

Never sieze is a good idea. Why not in the back too?

Rolok (sp) is a 3m surface prep disc for a die grinder. As for roloking the paint off both end .I usually do.

[bull]

Rolok? 

Never sieze is a good idea. Why not in the back too?

Rolok (sp) is a 3m surface prep disc for a die grinder. As for roloking the paint off both end .I usually do.

Oh. As for "the back too" I meant what do you think of filling up the rear socket with never sieze instead of grease?

[Charger-Bodie]

Rolok? 

Never sieze is a good idea. Why not in the back too?

Rolok (sp) is a 3m surface prep disc for a die grinder. As for roloking the paint off both end .I usually do.

Oh. As for "the back too" I meant what do you think of filling up the rear socket with never sieze instead of grease?

I think regular grease is better there. If you've ever seen a can of never-sieze after it start to dry out? it gets kinda hard and globby when its not in a tight place of friction.

[b5blue]

  I greased both ends quite a bit and had I not been constantly running out money would have put a boot on the front to cover and seal the lower control arm cup. We get lots of rain and fairly deep water on the roads, these parts shift around slightly in use and where they rub the paint away may rust over time, my old bars had witness marking to that effect. I don't think it's an issue unless the car is seeing heavy regular use.    

[bull]

I'm having a hard time with this drivers side torsion bar installation. I believe the LCA is clocked right but I had to back the torque adjusting bolt way off (and eventually I took it out) to get the LCA into position. Now I'm not sure if I was able to get the bolt back in straight because it turns freely for about 3/4 of a turn and then gets very hard for the other 1/4.

I have those stiffening plates on the bottom of the LCAs or it would have been a lot easier to get that bolt started. Maybe that LCA anchor pin is too tight in the k-frame.

[John_Kunkel]

You did leave the anchor pin nut loose until the car is on the ground?

[Charger-Bodie]

You did leave the anchor pin nut loose until the car is on the ground?

And even then sometimes you need to help the socket turn with a big channel locks or similar. Just remember to protect the surface so the pliers dont leave marks.

[bull]

You did leave the anchor pin nut loose until the car is on the ground?

Yes, I made sure the nut was loose before starting this procedure (I had to loosen it to get the LCA pivot to turn) and yet the pin wouldn't turn inside the k-frame until I tapped the end of the pin back out of the k-frame a little ways. I finally got it lined up and tapped the torsion bar into the LCA socket but by then I had removed the adjusting bolt to get it to the point where the LCA tab wasn't running up against the threaded adjusting bolt base. Even then it would barely fit. I'm sure the problem is the position I mounted the LCA pin to begin with and now it's kind of stuck in that tapered hole.