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no spark

Started by cactuswren, July 01, 2011, 01:38:47 PM

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cactuswren

I can't get any spark from the coil.. I have power to the coil when I turn it over, but the light seems weak. I put the mopar electronic ignition kit in but it didnt come with instructions. I'v found some diagrams online and am pretty sure I have all the wires where they are suppose to be.  Any ideas?

Troy

Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

nascarxx29

.Module well grounded wiring to ballast right and black yellow to - coil connection?
Check the pick up with - neg  coil connection to a 12 volt testlight .For any signs of light.
Another way to check pick up is with lead disconnected from distributor.
Check the 2 wires coming out of dist with ohmeter for any resistance reading .None its bad
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

cactuswren

could it be because the battery being too small? Engine does seem to crank slow.

nascarxx29

Cranking slow aside which is a battery issue in most cases .You should have spark
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

cactuswren

Still no luck.. I'v checked everything out. Still have no power coming out of the center of the coil going to distrubutor. The testing light lights up very dim on the positive side of the coil when I crank it over.  Could the coil be bad? I bought it new a few years ago but never installed it until now. Could it have gone bad just sitting unused for that long?

nascarxx29

For the electronic ignition you need the blue yellow wire on the single wire side on the ballast.And a key on dark blue harness wire on +pos terminal at coil .Which should light a testlight at the +coil and at single wire at ballast
And a black yellow wire on coil- terminal for the electronic trigger.
And good grounded module proper set air gap inside distributor.
The only things I can think off that would cause no spark condition bad module bad ballast bad coil .Or a wiring problem.Or distributor rotor not turning
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

cactuswren

Ok, I figured something out. I didnt have the ammeter connected on the dash harness. I connected that and now I have very good power to the coil in run and start ignition position. However now I have another problemnow. The engine will not turn over when I turn ignition to start! So now I know I will have spark, but cant get the engine to turn over. Had no problem turning it over when the ammeter was disconnected. What would cause this?

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Troy on July 01, 2011, 03:38:16 PM
The original instructions are available online:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf
or
http://www.retrorarities.com/images/mpeik.pdf

becarefull with diagrams on original instructions. IT IS WRONG to earlier cars, just valid for 75/76 and lates model, where the ballast bypass takes power from starter solenoid instead ign key
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html