Inspiration comes in many forms..especially Winged Forms!!!

[nitrometal]

DonC had me post this for him as he doesn't feel comfortable with posting pics yet...



DAY 1 -  This vintage photo and you guys and the cars here in the Aero section have in part inspired me to build my version of this Bird..for the street!
I've pulled my 70 out of long term storage and will soon begin the tear down and build up.
All scratch built...all steel...hammered...wide steelies....flared fenderwells...tin interior....cage etc...just plain Knarly!
Taking suggestions for other features too:)

Here's my plain vanilla 70...

DonC
(Thanx to Phil B for posting this for me)

****************************************

By the way, he's a great metal fabricator.  He just finished a metal hood extension for me to replace the fiberglass piece that the builders were lazy and mounted to the nose.  It's a shame that I don't have time to attach it before Indy.  His next part to tackle is the A-pillar wind deflectors at a fraction of the prices everyone else is asking (just like my hood extension). I have photos if you want to see it.
Phil

[A383Wing]

this looks like it's gonna fun to view the progress as it comes together

[moparstuart]

cool project

[TiMopar]

I can't for the life of me figure out how they got that car so low.

[djcarguy]

 :popcrn:i a  thanks

[nitrometal]

I can't for the life of me figure out how they got that car so low.

I know, isn't that incredible?  And how did it pass tech?

[TiMopar]

I can't for the life of me figure out how they got that car so low.

I know, isn't that incredible?  And how did it pass tech?

Exactly! It's like they dropped the body over the floorpan/ chassis. A friend of mine is also building a wingcar look-alike, with those size wheels and tyres. With 3 inch lowering blocks on the rear and the torsion bars wound down so the front is on the bump stops, the Number 6 car is a good 5-6 inches lower still.

[Magnumcharger]

I can't for the life of me figure out how they got that car so low.

I know, isn't that incredible?  And how did it pass tech?

Exactly! It's like they dropped the body over the floorpan/ chassis.

Bingo! And we have a winner!!

[nitrometal]

Isn't that what Ford basically did with the Talladega all legal like on the assembly line (but not to that extreme)?

[DonC1]

hmnnn...dunno if I'll go that far...I'd like to have the car done by next year.

[BigBlockSam]

 

[DonC1]

One could extend the rockers a couple inches to give the 'illusion' of that stance...

[TiMopar]

I can't for the life of me figure out how they got that car so low.

I know, isn't that incredible?  And how did it pass tech?

Exactly! It's like they dropped the body over the floorpan/ chassis.

Bingo! And we have a winner!!

That makes sense, judging by the height of the steering wheel and how high the driver is. Was that legal to do that? Is this an ARCA racecar?

[Aero426]

The #5 Superbird is one of the last Mopars built by Nichels Engineering.   It was built for the 1972 USAC season and Bobby Unser was the driver.   The car was bad fast at the Milwaukee Mile and set the one lap qualifying record which held for several years after the wing cars were gone.   Terry Nichels has said the #5 Superbird was "the biggest cheater of them all".   It makes most other racing Superbirds look truck-like.   In USAC, you could get away with more.  Changing rear tires on this car must have been fun.   

[Aero426]

Isn't that what Ford basically did with the Talladega all legal like on the assembly line (but not to that extreme)?

Yes, the production Talladegas were built with the special rocker panels.  On the race cars they would cut off that long pinchweld from the production Talladega rocker.  That would leave a shorter rocker panel and get the body of the car an inch lower.   Clever, and legal. 

[nitrometal]

I work with stainless steel quite a bit and can make hard to find pieces such as these parts here...all by hand...door trim, step sills etc
If anybody needs some custom made pieces let me know and I may be able to help.

Here's some photos of the interior trim for a 66 Batmobile replica I did....

And also pictures of the Superbird metal hood extension that I made for Phil (Nitrometal)...

DonC

umcprops@telus.net

[Daytona R/T SE]

I work with stainless steel quite a bit and can make hard to find pieces such as these parts here...all by hand...door trim, step sills etc
If anybody needs some custom made pieces let me know and I may be able to help.

Here's some photos of the interior trim for a 66 Batmobile replica I did....

And also pictures of the Superbird metal hood extension that I made for Phil (Nitrometal)...

DonC

umcprops@telus.net

Don,

PLEASE Make some Daytona/Superbird "A" pillar moldings that actually fit and look correct.

I haven't seen anything currently produced that I would put on my car...

and it's a FAKE!!!

[DonC1]

I'm working on that RT.


Above interior pieces for that replica car I made were done on my bead roller with a tipping die for the curved pieces and offset/stepped dies for the sills...now I wonder if I made a stainless steel bird wing...if that would be too gaudy or not?

[randr]

im second in line for daytona pillar moldings!

[Mike DC]

 
What really gives away the degree of lowering is when you compare the center points of the wheels to the rocker panels.  WA-A-AY below stock. 

[DonC1]

I agree....which makes it all the more tempting to go tube frame......and channel the body over that.

As per the A pillar moldings...anybody have an original Daytona pillar molding they could lend me?

[Daytona R/T SE]

I agree....which makes it all the more tempting to go tube frame......and channel the body over that.

As per the A pillar moldings...anybody have an original Daytona pillar molding they could lend me?

All I have is the fiberglass repros from TeXas.

But you're welcome to them if they'll work for you.

[Mike DC]

I agree....which makes it all the more tempting to go tube frame......and channel the body over that.

Why not just do it the way the originals were done?  Cut apart the floor/subframes from the sides/roof, and then reattach them with the upper part lower than stock.  If you're capable of doing the whole chassis from scratch then this job shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

[DonC1]

Time is a factor...and I wouldnt make my own chassis...Art Morrison makes a good frame...10k for a roller fully equipped....time I redo all the frame work/susp/brakes/ etc etc I'll be spending 10k either way.

And my donor car...lol....I've never bought a car sight unseen before but I did in 09 with this 70 from one Peter Kolenc..member here. I paid a princely sum for for...what wasn't quite as pictured...or mentioned..lol...like the 8" crack in the windshield..the swiss cheese trunk floor..switched wheel and tires and most bs'd of all....the engine as Peter said...(see below)  'LOL! Car last registered in 92' and missing a good portion of engine parts as the brake pedal sunk to the floor. Never again!

From Peter ..quote -  'and car looks better in real life..pictures don't give the car it's true potential...'
(you got that right Peter!)
quote: ' keys in car and all door locks work...you will be please...like i said can get the car running in a weekend if you put carb back etc....
(lol...)

[Mike DC]

   
The Art Morrison chassis seems like a good piece, although it would probably commit you to 17" and larger wheels.  


If you don't need the floors & subframes of the donor Plymouth then I would find a starting point with its undercarriage rusted out.  I hate it when guys hack up solid unibodies just to use the sides & roof.  It's not like a rusty unibody costs more to buy than a solid one.