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Voltage Regulator Getting Fried

Started by MoparMotel, June 05, 2011, 03:11:33 AM

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MoparMotel

Amp gauge started bouncing around from -20 to +40. The car has done this 3 times now. Pulled voltage regulator off, its fried. It is the $70 Echlin Napa points style regulator. Got so hot part of the metal points melted together. This is the 3rd regulator in 1,000 miles, what is making them go bad? I just replaced the alternator today because it was making a grinding noise. Started up car and checked voltage at 1000-1500 rpms, 17 volts. I immediately shut it off.


What regulator should I buy that will last and not go bad? All of the regulators I've bought have been the Napa Echlin points style regulators that are around $70.


I'd like to pick up a new regulator for the car tomorrow from one of my local autoparts stores ( Kragen, Napa, Autozone )

Is there an electronic style regulator I can purchase from one of these stores and will it plug right in?


Thank you!
1968 Dodge Charger

MoparMotel

Did a little research, Looks like I can get a VR32 Echlin from Napa for $68 which is the points style and the one I've used the last 2 times, or the VR706 from Autozone for $25 which I believe is the little silver electric one.

My question is I would like to try the VR706 electric one since the points one does not seem to be working. Is there anything I have to change before going to an electric regulator like the VR706? 

The car has a brand new battery and I just put in a brand new alternator today....Just waiting to pick up a regulator this morning to get her fired back up.


Thanks!
1968 Dodge Charger

covet66

Picked up the silver electric one for our 66- no good out of the box, switched over to a new points style one and it works fine.

MoparMotel

Did the silver one plug in without any modification?
1968 Dodge Charger

tan top

just out of curiosity , are you running a single or duel field alternator :scratchchin:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

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 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

MoparMotel

I'm not sure, this is the alternator I just put in the car yesterday:

BesTest - Alternator
Part Number: 01-0657X
Line: BTE

    UPC: 631002008628
    Remanufactured
    With 2 Groove Pulley
    60 Amps

Warranty Info

1 Year Limited Warranty
Detailed Description

73-70 Chrysler


Here is a photo of the old one that came out of the car:



And here is the new one I put on yesterday:


1968 Dodge Charger

MoparMotel

I'm going to head to Napa and get a VR32 since that is what I bought before and can get it replaced for free, but also I am going to go by Autozone and pick up the VR706 as well.

Can I just plug in the VR706 and be good to go or is there anything that needs to be done?

1968 Dodge Charger

Charger-Bodie

You should be able to just plug it in a go.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

MoparMotel

1968 Dodge Charger

y3chargerrt

Its listed for a 70-73 so it should be a dual field one. If there is a second field terminal youi have to groud it.

tan top


Quote from: y3chargerrt on June 05, 2011, 02:30:09 PM
Its listed for a 70-73 so it should be a dual field one. If there is a second field terminal youi have to groud it.
:yesnod:






where is that mauve wire running to from the  alternator out put stud ??? that should be going to the horn relay  :scratchchin:
:popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

MoparMotel

Quote from: tan top on June 05, 2011, 03:30:13 PM

Quote from: y3chargerrt on June 05, 2011, 02:30:09 PM
Its listed for a 70-73 so it should be a dual field one. If there is a second field terminal youi have to groud it.
:yesnod:






where is that mauve wire running to from the  alternator out put stud ??? that should be going to the horn relay  :scratchchin:
:popcrn:




I have no idea, I had a local shop rebuild the motor and put it back together, now I am trying to fix the problems that he couldn't. Where would the second field terminal be on the back of the alternator, I basically took the old alternator off and put the wires back exactly where they were on the old one.
1968 Dodge Charger

MoparMotel

Just picked up the VR32 Napa regulator and VR706 Autozone silver regulator. Going to try both and see which one gives me the best results.
1968 Dodge Charger

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: y3chargerrt on June 05, 2011, 02:30:09 PM
Its listed for a 70-73 so it should be a dual field one. If there is a second field terminal youi have to groud it.

it is already grounded... the prong cut it looks without the isolation washer... I would insert a metallic washer there to be sure about a good contact.

its already a round back BUT dual fiel, modified ( partially ) to work like a single field. Add a washer to check if you get some difference
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

MoparMotel

Thank you all for the help. Put the VR706 from autozone in yesterday. Car now idles at 13.8 and 14.3 at 1500-2000 rpms.

Amp gauge now reads right above 0 all the time now.
1968 Dodge Charger

Plum Crazy 68

I just went through this with a dual field alternator that was put on my car over ten years ago.  Thanks to Nachos old posts and diagrahms the problem on my car has been resolved.  Before I was just running on battery power and never drove it enough to charge the battery.  Now the car starts right up and produces a constant 12 volts.  Rebel horn sounds better too.  Thank you Nacho!  Your car looks great on my calendar too!
Brad

440

From my understanding a reading of 12 volts means the car isn't charging, it should be 12v engine off but as soon as you fire it up should read somewhere around 13V - 14V

nascarxx29

The voltage should jump up when its running .Do you have key on power to the alt fields.Use a 12 volt testlight and check for power
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: MoparMotel on June 06, 2011, 08:56:37 AM
Amp gauge now reads right above 0 all the time now.

actually not really normal, it should be centered unless slightly discharged batt where alt should be recharging being that the reason why the needle is above the center.

Unless you have some accesory or relay taking power directly from batt, where the charge reading it means really the source to that instead an empty batt.

quite often on an initially discharged batt, the needle takes couple of days to a death center needle. All allong the days, the needle goes back and forth but thats normall according with the accesories requirements and the alt output given by the RPMs

Quote from: Plum Crazy 68 on June 07, 2011, 01:30:30 PM
I just went through this with a dual field alternator that was put on my car over ten years ago.  Thanks to Nachos old posts and diagrahms the problem on my car has been resolved.  Before I was just running on battery power and never drove it enough to charge the battery.  Now the car starts right up and produces a constant 12 volts.  Rebel horn sounds better too.  Thank you Nacho!  Your car looks great on my calendar too!
Brad

you're welcome...

Is TRUE... it's June, my car is there now LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html