cam problem solved!!!!

[mpdlawdog]

I have a 68 charger...383 4 bbl....916 heads? (stock I believe).....I had to put another motor in my car thanks to a broken wrist pin.....I bought a short block from a guy......he knew little about the motor other than it had been gone through....anyway I got it in the car...it has a BIG cam in it...I have a new edelbrock 600 on it..

I finally got it together and running...it starts and idles fine...when you go down the road and give it gas..it dies...(I have driven it twice for a short time and it happened both times)  I pulled the plugs and they were wet and there was gas in the oil...I changed the oil....I put a new coil, set the points, and a new fuel pump on it...

I thought putting a hotter spark plug might help..I have champion 14 in it now...I went to autozone and they told me 14 were the hottest?  Ideas?

Im not a mechanic...well basically im an idiot when it comes to motors...any help would be great..thanks!

I forgot to add the engine is also bored .30 if that makes a difference...

[flyinlow]

I am not an expert tuner ,but I will give you a couple of ideas.

Not sure what " gone through "covers ,unless I did it myself or a known engine builder did.  A compression check might be a good idea. Normal oil pressure?

If a "big cam" means the vacuum is low at idle, Eddy carbs can be hard to tune with this condition. Changing the metering rod spring to weaker ones might help.

Dies hitting the gas going down the road could be a dirty fuel filter , cloged pick up sock in the tank or a worn fuel pump pushrod. (should have been replaced if the engine was rebuilt.) Do a fuel delivery test. At idle you should get at least a quart per minute at idle.

Champion J-14y is a warm plug ,normal for 383 2bbl. J-11y was a cooler plug for 383 magnums. So you are allready as warm as you want to go.

[GunMetal]

Fuel in the oil, wet plugs tells me too much gas in to the intake. Could be choke issues (maybe), stuck needle and seat in carb(hummm), sunk float (could be, I've had that happen twice). Others will chime in with more suggestions. Good Luck.

[skip68]

If you have to big of a cam, you probably low vacuum.  Eddy carbs don't run good on low vacuum.   I bet the fumes burn your eyes.   Sounds like to much cam to me. 

[mpdlawdog]

I got a fuel pressure gauge set up to put on it but didnt have time to put it on last night....the oil pressure is good...i put a fuel filter before and after the pump which is also new....I set the choke wide open so it should not be a problem....I have no idea to check to see if the float is sticking in the carb...any help with that would be nice...

It does have low vacuum..My power brakes dont work but the headlights do work    could the brake booster be leaking and causing the problems?

I will try the fuel delivery test tonight...any ideas how many pounds its suppose to run at?  Thanks for all the help so far

[skip68]

I may be wrong but I think about 5 1/2 to 6 pounds of pressure for a Eddy Carb. Better get a second opinion on that but I guarantee 5 lbs will work.  Sounds like a serious vacuum issue.  It's either leaking bad somewhere or your cam just doesn't make a lot of vacuum. 

[skip68]

You might want to post some questions in the performance section since you have a big cam.  More help over there. 

[flyinlow]

Stock fuel pumps run around 5 1/2-6 psi . Pressure is important, Eddy carbs can flood above 6psi. Check the volume. Unhook the fuel line at the carb and push a length of rubber fuel line over the factory line. With the engine idling it should pump at least a quart per minute. Also look for rust from an old fuel tank in the fuel.
If you have an aftermarket high pressure pump you might need to install a regulator.

Power brake boosters need 10-12 In. Hg. or more to work . Take vacuum reading at idle in drive and cruising. Even a Bigger street cam will make enough vacuum to work the booster at cruise if the engine is tuned well. Check the vacuum line and check valve to the booster. A good booster/check valve will  "store" about two brake applications after the engine is off ,assuming it was fully vacuumed down to start. There are cams with enough overlap that they won't work with power brakes but most guys don't run them on the street. Do you know the cam specs.

You don't normally need a filter before the fuel pump.

[mpdlawdog]

Stock fuel pumps run around 5 1/2-6 psi . Pressure is important, Eddy carbs can flood above 6psi. Check the volume. Unhook the fuel line at the carb and push a length of rubber fuel line over the factory line. With the engine idling it should pump at least a quart per minute. Also look for rust from an old fuel tank in the fuel.
If you have an aftermarket high pressure pump you might need to install a regulator.

Power brake boosters need 10-12 In. Hg. or more to work . Take vacuum reading at idle in drive and cruising. Even a Bigger street cam will make enough vacuum to work the booster at cruise if the engine is tuned well. Check the vacuum line and check valve to the booster. A good booster/check valve will  "store" about two brake applications after the engine is off ,assuming it was fully vacuumed down to start. There are cams with enough overlap that they won't work with power brakes but most guys don't run them on the street. Do you know the cam specs.

You don't normally need a filter before the fuel pump.


Thanks for the help....I have a fuel pressure guage I am putting on tonight and my neighbor has a vacuum guage he is going to loan me.....I will post the results....thanks again!

[firefighter3931]

I finally got it together and running...it starts and idles fine...when you go down the road and give it gas..it dies...(I have driven it twice for a short time and it happened both times)  I pulled the plugs and they were wet and there was gas in the oil...I changed the oil....I put a new coil, set the points, and a new fuel pump on it...

I thought putting a hotter spark plug might help..I have champion 14 in it now...I went to autozone and they told me 14 were the hottest?  Ideas?

A hotter plug won't help if there is excessive fuel in the combustion chamber. It sounds like your float level is too high or you have excessive fuel pressure.


Ron

[mpdlawdog]

I finally got it together and running...it starts and idles fine...when you go down the road and give it gas..it dies...(I have driven it twice for a short time and it happened both times)  I pulled the plugs and they were wet and there was gas in the oil...I changed the oil....I put a new coil, set the points, and a new fuel pump on it...

I thought putting a hotter spark plug might help..I have champion 14 in it now...I went to autozone and they told me 14 were the hottest?  Ideas?

How do I check the float level?  If I take it apart it they will not take it back

A hotter plug won't help if there is excessive fuel in the combustion chamber. It sounds like your float level is too high or you have excessive fuel pressure.


Ron

[firefighter3931]

How do I check the float level?  If I take it apart it they will not take it back

Honestly, that is not the correct carb for your application. 

Float adjustment procedure :

To properly adjust the floats in the EPS carburetor, two procedures must be followed. First, invert the airhorn cover (Figure holding the airhorn gasket in place. There should be 7⁄16"
between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float. To adjust the float level, bend the float lever until the recommended level is attained. DO NOT press the needle into the
seat when adjusting the float lever. Next, you should check the float drop (Figure 9). Hold the airhorn upright and let the floats hang down. There should be 15/16" to 1" between the
airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float. To adjust the float drop, bend the tab on the back until the recommended float drop is attained.

Some notes on tuning with low vacuum :

If the engine has a fairly radical camshaft it may require an excessive amount of throttle opening for idle and/or have low idle vacuum levels. Either condition can lead to poor levels of
adjustability and erratic idles.
• Another fix for the above condition is to run as much spark advance as possible at idle. If the distributor is fitted with a vacuum advance unit, connect it directly to manifold
vacuum. If you are not able to employ vacuum advance for some reason, then the mechanical curve should have a low limit, which will allow you to use plenty of initial spark advance.
• Measure the manifold vacuum at idle. If it is below 7" Hg, there is a good chance that the Metering Rods are in the up (rich) position. When combined with a high idle air rate this can
cause the Nozzles to discharge fuel at idle. Use a weaker Step-Up Spring (see section on Step-Up calibration) to keep the Rods down at idle. With some cams, a stiffer spring (pink or
silver) is necessary. Experimentation is the best way to determine which is best for your application.


All of this information and much more is available at this link :

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf



Ron

[mpdlawdog]

How do I check the float level?  If I take it apart it they will not take it back

Honestly, that is not the correct carb for your application. 

Float adjustment procedure :

To properly adjust the floats in the EPS carburetor, two procedures must be followed. First, invert the airhorn cover (Figure holding the airhorn gasket in place. There should be 7⁄16"
between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float. To adjust the float level, bend the float lever until the recommended level is attained. DO NOT press the needle into the
seat when adjusting the float lever. Next, you should check the float drop (Figure 9). Hold the airhorn upright and let the floats hang down. There should be 15/16" to 1" between the
airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float. To adjust the float drop, bend the tab on the back until the recommended float drop is attained.

Some notes on tuning with low vacuum :

If the engine has a fairly radical camshaft it may require an excessive amount of throttle opening for idle and/or have low idle vacuum levels. Either condition can lead to poor levels of
adjustability and erratic idles.
• Another fix for the above condition is to run as much spark advance as possible at idle. If the distributor is fitted with a vacuum advance unit, connect it directly to manifold
vacuum. If you are not able to employ vacuum advance for some reason, then the mechanical curve should have a low limit, which will allow you to use plenty of initial spark advance.
• Measure the manifold vacuum at idle. If it is below 7" Hg, there is a good chance that the Metering Rods are in the up (rich) position. When combined with a high idle air rate this can
cause the Nozzles to discharge fuel at idle. Use a weaker Step-Up Spring (see section on Step-Up calibration) to keep the Rods down at idle. With some cams, a stiffer spring (pink or
silver) is necessary. Experimentation is the best way to determine which is best for your application.


All of this information and much more is available at this link :

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf



Ron

What would your advice be....get a smaller cam or a bigger carb?  I love the way she sounds but this is a pain in the you know what!  I didnt get a chance to work on it last night..my daughter had a soccer game out of town.

[mpdlawdog]

OK i give up!!!  time for a new cam...this one is way too big for what I need (0 vacuum= 0 brakes on drums all the way around among other things)....can anyone give me some ideas on a cam choice?  My buddy who works on my stuff said to get a stock 440 six pack cam.....the engine (383) is  bored .30 over...edelbrock 600....stock manifolds.....stock intake...stock heads

I LOVE the way it sounds and shakes the car at idle and it sounds awsome going down the road but I give up and want someting I can drive on a frequent basis.......but would like something that has some lump to it....

any suggestions would help...thanks in advance.

by the way I dont know how big the current cam is...I bought the short block off a a guy who bought it at an estate sale from a mopar engine guy who died

[firefighter3931]

Something like the Lunati 302 voodoo cam should work fine in your 383 

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1578&gid=287


Ron

[mpdlawdog]

Something like the Lunati 302 voodoo cam should work fine in your 383 

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1578&gid=287


Ron

thanks Ron...I also found these...in your opinion who you use any of these of just go with a stock purple shaft cam from mopar?
Thanks Dave
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,81000.msg917288.html#msg917288

[firefighter3931]

Something like the Lunati 302 voodoo cam should work fine in your 383 

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1578&gid=287


Ron

thanks Ron...I also found these...in your opinion who you use any of these of just go with a stock purple shaft cam from mopar?
Thanks Dave
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,81000.msg917288.html#msg917288

If it were mine....i'd use the #302 voodoo cam. Lots of vacuum for power brakes, easy carb tuning and excellent throttle response. Jackson (terrible one) has this cam in his mild 383 and loves it.

As you've seen & experienced the wrong cam can make your driving experience miserable ! 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,78094.0.html


Ron

[mpdlawdog]

yea you can say this cam thing has been a challenge....I ordered the voodoo 302..should be here monday...let the fun begin!!!  I will keep you posted but thanks for everyones help!!!

[mpdlawdog]

Thanks so much for everyones help...with the help of my friend Jan, we got the cam in the car yesterday....it runs awsome and I have power brakes!!!!  Ready for some summer cruising!!!  Thanks again everyone for their help!!

[skip68]

If you have to big of a cam, you probably low vacuum.  Eddy carbs don't run good on low vacuum.   I bet the fumes burn your eyes.   Sounds like to much cam to me. 

I win.  Did I call that one or what.    
Glad to hear it's running good.   
Was I right about the old cam being a mopar purple cam?   Anyway, good job.

[terrible one]

Good deal. How about a video? Hopefully including a burnout . . . 

[firefighter3931]

Thanks so much for everyones help...with the help of my friend Jan, we got the cam in the car yesterday....it runs awsome and I have power brakes!!!!  Ready for some summer cruising!!!  Thanks again everyone for their help!!

Excellent ! 



Ron

[mpdlawdog]

Just wanted to say thanks again for all the help....here is a pic of what cam was in it..I dont know much about them but I should have taken a side by side pic with the new one....this one is much bigger....Here is also a pic after our first burn out...I dont know how to do videos sorry!