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engine problem

Started by Mrs.Caveman, May 14, 2011, 12:32:59 PM

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Mrs.Caveman

We just experienced the first problem with the charger :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:!it's really frustrating to break down on the middle of the road and can't fix the problem!
when the engine warms up it dies.i was told the carburetor might sucked up some dirt!when it cools down a bit and restart it runs for 2minutes then stops again!what can it be?i guess a lot of things could be!got no one to help us right now and have to wait!we managed to drive her back to the garage but it was a nightmare and i never wanna to do it again!power steering not working when the engine is off was a absolute nightmare!had to start it up then push cuz if the power steering worked a bit the engine stopped!is it cuz not enough gas gets in the carburetor?the fuel pump is brand new!
need help,the wedding is 13away

Veronika

RECHRGD

There may be crud in the gas tank clogging the sock (filter) on the pick-up.   :Twocents:
13.53 @ 105.32

CB

If the filter in the gastank is clogged with debris you can simply remove the unit out of the gastank and clean it up.

Take a minute to read this helpfull article from Mopar Action:

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/roadside.html
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

1970Moparmann

Sure sounds like a fuel issue.   Start with a filter and work your way down the list.   What carb, size do you have?  Fuel lines?  What fuel pump?  Mechanical? 
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Mrs.Caveman

thanks guys,got our first taste of the "old car"issues!live and learn!hopefully a simple problem!luckily we were close to the garage and managed to get in there but took us a long time!

thanks again

Veronika

1970Moparmann

Unfortunately this isn't going to be the last time something happens.  I always drive around with a jack and my tool case just in case.   
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Mrs.Caveman

might be a silly question but i have no idea how to take out the filter unit from the gas tank!never seen it before!can anyone explain it like i was a 5year old :yesnod:  :smilielol:
do i need to take the gas tank off?like i said i haven't got a clue what is what!i know it's a shame but im learning!

thank you

Veronika

rp23g7

No worries.  Its pretty easy on a b body.  You may be able to get it out with out dropping the tank depending on how big you are too.  You need the car on jacks, with the axle hanging for more room.  Get under the car and you will see the fuel line coming out of the pickup.

Do this with at least half the fuel gone, or with the car on 4 jacks with the rear lower, or on a slight slope, so the rear is lower.  Take the fuel line clamp and the ground strap loose.

There is a retainer ring on the unit, you may need to bend the ends down to have it turn.  Use a wood dowl, or a brass punch so you dont make sparks. 

Hit it counter clockwise about a 1/4 turn.  There will be a rubber gasket under the ring.  if its in bad shape replace it or it will leak when you put it back together.

Once the retainer and the rubber gasket is removed, the sending unit will pull right out with a little twisting to clear everything.  Be careful the float may catch on something.

There will be a cloth filter on the end, which may or may not still be there, or it may be all clooged up.

If it looks savable, try cleaning it, if not you may need a new one.  When putting it back in be careful of the float again, remember the direction the fuel line was in so you get it back correctly.

Use vasaline on the rubber gasket because it will want to twist when you put the lock ring back on.

Its only a few more steps to drop the tank to make sure it doesnt leak when you have it all together, just 2 J bolt nuts with the straps hold it on, if your tank is nearly empty it may be a good idea, cant really mess anything up.

Then you can clean the tank out too when its out

When putting the unit in, be careful of the float

Mrs.Caveman

Quote from: rp23g7 on May 14, 2011, 04:52:52 PM
No worries.  Its pretty easy on a b body.  You may be able to get it out with out dropping the tank depending on how big you are too.  You need the car on jacks, with the axle hanging for more room.  Get under the car and you will see the fuel line coming out of the pickup.

Do this with at least half the fuel gone, or with the car on 4 jacks with the rear lower, or on a slight slope, so the rear is lower.  Take the fuel line clamp and the ground strap loose.

There is a retainer ring on the unit, you may need to bend the ends down to have it turn.  Use a wood dowl, or a brass punch so you dont make sparks.  

Hit it counter clockwise about a 1/4 turn.  There will be a rubber gasket under the ring.  if its in bad shape replace it or it will leak when you put it back together.

thanks  alot!you made it look easy but im sure it isn't for the first time!

thanks again

Veronika
woo,thanks a lot rp23g7!you made it look simple but I'm sure it isn't for the first time!

Veronika
Once the retainer and the rubber gasket is removed, the sending unit will pull right out with a little twisting to clear everything.  Be careful the float may catch on something.

There will be a cloth filter on the end, which may or may not still be there, or it may be all clooged up.

If it looks savable, try cleaning it, if not you may need a new one.  When putting it back in be careful of the float again, remember the direction the fuel line was in so you get it back correctly.

Use vasaline on the rubber gasket because it will want to twist when you put the lock ring back on.

Its only a few more steps to drop the tank to make sure it doesnt leak when you have it all together, just 2 J bolt nuts with the straps hold it on, if your tank is nearly empty it may be a good idea, cant really mess anything up.

Then you can clean the tank out too when its out

When putting the unit in, be careful of the float

Mrs.Caveman

messud up the post,sorry!

thanks a lot for your help!i hope this is the problem and nothing major!what an awful experience it was!

Veronika

GunMetal

Other members, Does that year have the ballast resistor that creates so many problems? I would think verifying fuel delivery at the carb would be the second thing to do,... after changing the resistor. Veronika, sorry to hear about the issues, we'll get you guys back on the road! :2thumbs:
Non illegitimis carborundum

stripedelete

Quote from: GunMetal on May 14, 2011, 05:24:29 PM
Other members, Does that year have the ballast resistor that creates so many problems? I would think verifying fuel delivery at the carb would be the second thing to do,... after changing the resistor. Veronika, sorry to hear about the issues, we'll get you guys back on the road! :2thumbs:

Good call.  The fuel issue would most likely occur under a load.  But does the ballast resistor recover/present intermitently before it fails?   It has been many years since I had one leave me on the side of the road.

tan top

did the car just stop with out warning !! ( just like it being  switched off )    or did it splutter sputter , then die
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Mrs.Caveman

just stoped like i was turned off!

justcruisin

Your problem will either be fuel or ignition, you need to establish which before you go tearing things apart. Do this by checking spark at the plugs first as this is the easyest check . If you have spark then check for fuel at the carb and track the fault down from there.

Mrs.Caveman

thanks everyone for helping!
where can i buy from the rubber gasket that under the retainer ring on the unit and the cloth filter on the end of the float!if the cloth filter is savable how do i tell and how do i clean it with?it might seem obvious for you guys but not to me!

thank you
Veronika

elacruze

Hi Veronika,

Look first for a clogged filter between the fuel pump and carburetor; if one is there, it can plug while running then while sitting the crud falls off the filter, repeat. I agree with the recommendations above that it can be also in the fuel tank pickup, but the carburetor end is much easier to check. Usually this is due to very fine rust in the tank from sitting.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Mrs.Caveman

we just got it checked and it's the brand new fuel pump that caused the problem!now we ordered one from rockauto.com and the$30 item with shipping is $90 :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:
now we are gonna clean the fuel tank out put fillters before the fuel pump and not bettween as it is now plus get new fuel line!

resq302

might want to check your ballast resistor.  I had an issue like that back when I first got my car and it did the same thing.  After I replaced the ballast resistor, then the pick up coil inside the electronic ignition distributor crapped out with the same symptoms.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Back N Black

While you have the fuel pump removed check the fuel pump push rod for wear. It should measure 3 1/4 inches.

six-tee-nine

This sound like a typical rust flake or goop in the tank issue.

it goes as follows : car stands still the goop is on the bottom of the tank, when you start driving als the stuff starts swirling around because of the shaking of the fluid when driving the fuel pickup gets clogged and the car dies. so after sitting a while the stuff sinks back to the bottom and the fuel becomes clear again and you can drive off again.

I'm not saying that this IS your problem but it's never a bad thing to clean out a 40 year old gas tank and check the fuel pickup. I'd also check all the fuel hoses for cracks, check the filters and maybe even clean the carb if the system looks dirty.
If it doesn't cure ypur problem then at least you know it will not become a problem in the near future.
Haaaa the joy of old cars.....
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


Mrs.Caveman

Quote from: six-tee-nine on May 17, 2011, 01:29:40 PM
This sound like a typical rust flake or goop in the tank issue.

it goes as follows : car stands still the goop is on the bottom of the tank, when you start driving als the stuff starts swirling around because of the shaking of the fluid when driving the fuel pickup gets clogged and the car dies. so after sitting a while the stuff sinks back to the bottom and the fuel becomes clear again and you can drive off again.

I'm not saying that this IS your problem but it's never a bad thing to clean out a 40 year old gas tank and check the fuel pickup. I'd also check all the fuel hoses for cracks, check the filters and maybe even clean the carb if the system looks dirty.
If it doesn't cure ypur problem then at least you know it will not become a problem in the near future.
Haaaa the joy of old cars.....

now we know we should have cleaned the tank out before jumping in and driving but didn't know it!we learned it on the hard way :brickwall: live and learn i guess!smart people learn from other people's mistake and we learn from our mistake :slap: :icon_smile_dissapprove:
I'm just hoping that she will be ready for the wedding

six-tee-nine

A bride in high heels pushing a muscle car down the street, now THAT would be a nice picture of the week   :popcrn:
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


GPULLER

Ran into a problem like this once on my brothers Super Bee.  It happened to be the ignition coil, it would heat up and car would die.  Might be something to check.

firefighter3931

The easiest way to diagnose a problem is to recreate the symptoms then start checking for the issue. It's going to be either electrical or fuel delivery related.  :yesnod:

Get the car running to the point where it shuts off and check for spark. If none is present then you know where to start. If you have spark then start looking at the fuel system working your way back from the carb.  :Twocents:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs