News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Nice Invention to Attach Deck to House

Started by Old Moparz, May 15, 2011, 01:09:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Old Moparz

It's not car related, but I know a lot of you guys do your own work on your homes & thought you may like to see this cool item I found online today. It's a special bracket to keep a deck on the house from actually coming in direct contact with the exterior wall of your house. This prevents moisture from building up & ruining this area. I have a repair I need to do later this year on one exterior wall because the previous owner's builder nailed the deck framing right over the face of the siding.

http://www.deckbracket.com/printable.html

They're $25 each, but you really don't need too many to attach the deck to the house.
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

Richard Cranium

That looks like a good idea to me, but I'm sure that Mike Holmes would find fault with it.......and your workmanship.  :lol:
I am Dr. Remulac

Iceyone

That looks pretty cool. I may buy some myself, as I need to build a 50' deck on the back side of my house sometime this year.
68 Charger
70 Super Bee
11 SRT8 Challenger
30 Chevy Universal

Alaskan_TA

As installed, the wood behind it is going to rot out.  :Twocents:

HANDM

Quote from: Alaskan_TA on May 15, 2011, 11:23:30 PM
As installed, the wood behind it is going to rot out.  :Twocents:

Please explain, seems to be properly sealed up to me and I've built many a deck using standard practices.

(Remove siding, install rim joist flash over the top, install decking, positive slope on the last board against house, last piece of siding down to deck)

Old Moparz

Quote from: HANDM on May 16, 2011, 12:55:30 AM
Quote from: Alaskan_TA on May 15, 2011, 11:23:30 PM
As installed, the wood behind it is going to rot out.  :Twocents:

Please explain, seems to be properly sealed up to me and I've built many a deck using standard practices.

(Remove siding, install rim joist flash over the top, install decking, positive slope on the last board against house, last piece of siding down to deck)


Yeah, please explain.  :shruggy:

I went back to re-examine the pics & can't see why it would rot out behind the bracket. All the siding in those pics overlaps properly, it's sealed with caulk, & the deck is away from the wall.

Are you seeing something different, Barry?  :shruggy:
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

nvrbdn

70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

PocketThunder

Quote from: Old Moparz on May 16, 2011, 08:06:21 AM
Quote from: HANDM on May 16, 2011, 12:55:30 AM
Quote from: Alaskan_TA on May 15, 2011, 11:23:30 PM
As installed, the wood behind it is going to rot out.  :Twocents:

Please explain, seems to be properly sealed up to me and I've built many a deck using standard practices.

(Remove siding, install rim joist flash over the top, install decking, positive slope on the last board against house, last piece of siding down to deck)


Yeah, please explain.  :shruggy:

I went back to re-examine the pics & can't see why it would rot out behind the bracket. All the siding in those pics overlaps properly, it's sealed with caulk, & the deck is away from the wall.

Are you seeing something different, Barry?  :shruggy:

:shruggy:   Is Barry talking about the wood behind the bracket referring to the rim joist behind the siding?  Or is he talking about the wood siding itself? 
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

Domino

I'd check with your local govt. permits and inspections office before purchasing or designing a deck with them.

The deck pictured probably wouldn't pass here, not enough 1/2" bolts to meet code.

bakerhillpins

Quote from: HANDM on May 16, 2011, 12:55:30 AM
Quote from: Alaskan_TA on May 15, 2011, 11:23:30 PM
As installed, the wood behind it is going to rot out.  :Twocents:

Please explain, seems to be properly sealed up to me and I've built many a deck using standard practices.

(Remove siding, install rim joist flash over the top, install decking, positive slope on the last board against house, last piece of siding down to deck)

2 things I see. Cutting through the sheathing is done to recess the metal plate below the sheathing plane allowing the siding to lay flat over the bracket. When they did this they compromised the vapor barrier and created a ledge to collect water in. That in its own right isn't going to bring the house down but the fact that the instructions don't have the installer replacing the vapor barrier or better yet sealing around it with a waterproof membrane (Ice Water shield) means that any water that builds up at the web portion of the beam is going to leak back behind the siding and collect in the pocket where the bracket is. Over time this will rot out the rim joist. In snow country it will occur faster because snow/ice buildup over the bracket will help feed water into the cracks in the siding. This can be solved with some extra care in flashing though. Specifically, the membrane mentioned previously and even a bit of vapor barrier that is under the bottom edge of the membrane and laps over top of the bottom coarse of siding. This will direct any water that gets in at the webbing of the bracket back out over the siding below.  :Twocents:

One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

Old Moparz

Good point, you're right, there was no mention of covering the wood behind the bracket with a vapor barrier. It would be something I would do without a second thought.
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

Budnicks

I like the looks of the system. The other thing to do is, don't attach to the house at all, on low decks on the first floor, use some concrete pads or drill large post holes & install steel post or brackets or piers with posts or a footing with posts & diagonal bracing then it is self standing all together no water penetration into the main house structure ever. Here in snow country that's what I do, unless it's on the second floor. Then it is too pricey to install that way. It all ways come down to money it seems. You can all ways do it the traditional way with ledgers & lag blots, if flashed correctly it could last 25years depending on what type of wood & how much weather & if it's sealed regularly & properly.   
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Alaskan_TA

I guess I should have expained it some, we average 13 feet of rain a year here & I have dealt with a lot of rot over the years from bad installations by others.

This install may be fine in arrid climates, but not here.

That said, they cut through the vapor barrier to install an aluminum bracket.

The house end will always be a hair warmer that the outer end in the cold months assuming the house is kept heated.

So, condensation will form on the back of bracket where it is connected to the house & the rim joist will rot over time.

Aluminum window & door frames do the same thing here.

If installed over a vapor barrier like tar paper or Vycor any water could just run out. I cover the ends of the bolts here with silicone. It insulates them just enough to keep them from condensating inside the house, it also prevents frost transfer on cold days.


Old Moparz

Quote from: Alaskan_TA on May 16, 2011, 07:48:48 PM
I guess I should have expained it some, we average 13 feet of rain a year here & I have dealt with a lot of rot over the years from bad installations by others.

This install may be fine in arrid climates, but not here.

That said, they cut through the vapor barrier to install an aluminum bracket.

The house end will always be a hair warmer that the outer end in the cold months assuming the house is kept heated.

So, condensation will form on the back of bracket where it is connected to the house & the rim joist will rot over time.

Aluminum window & door frames do the same thing here.

If installed over a vapor barrier like tar paper or Vycor any water could just run out. I cover the ends of the bolts here with silicone. It insulates them just enough to keep them from condensating inside the house, it also prevents frost transfer on cold days.



:2thumbs:
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

Budnicks

Quote from: Old Moparz on May 16, 2011, 08:06:21 AM
Quote from: HANDM on May 16, 2011, 12:55:30 AM
Quote from: Alaskan_TA on May 15, 2011, 11:23:30 PM
As installed, the wood behind it is going to rot out.  :Twocents:

Please explain, seems to be properly sealed up to me and I've built many a deck using standard practices.

(Remove siding, install rim joist flash over the top, install decking, positive slope on the last board against house, last piece of siding down to deck)


Yeah, please explain.  :shruggy:

I went back to re-examine the pics & can't see why it would rot out behind the bracket. All the siding in those pics overlaps properly, it's sealed with caulk, & the deck is away from the wall.

Are you seeing something different, Barry?  :shruggy:
A little off subject but I had to ask. Man every time I see that little video of the yellow lab jumping from the window of the moving car, I wonder is that your dog? & did he get hurt? sorry just wondering I have a 13 year old chocolate lab that did kind of the same thing, when he was young, while in the back of my truck with a leash & choke collar, he dang near hung himself.    Budnicks
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

FLG

Bud,

Its been going around the net for some time now...from what i gather the dog had a few broken bones but was otherwise just fine.

Old Moparz

Not my dog in the pic, although the dopey mutt I had, "Tiger", a shepherd-lab mix, did jump out of my Hearse once while I was doing about 25 or 30 MPH.  :lol:

Took him to the vet for a check up & on the way he kept trying to look out the window that I had opened a few inches. He rested his neck on the edge of the glass holding all his weight up & made himself cough, choke & drool all over the side of the car. On the way back I opened the window for him as he appeared to be behaving. I made a turn on the last street before my house & heard a noise, looked over, & all I saw was the dog's ass & tail going out the open window.

I didn't see him land, but he did land on the asphalt pavement. I also saw a woman on her front lawn with a look of sheer horror seeing a big dog fly out of a moving Hearse. She grabbed her toddler that was in the grass playing by the arm, & ran into the house with the kid dangling beside her. She moved so fast I bet the kid bounced off the door frame going in. I stopped the car to get the dog hoping he was okay, & he was fine. I just had to wait for him to finish peeing on the tree he was at.  :lol:
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

Budnicks

Quote from: FLG on May 17, 2011, 03:15:37 AM
Bud,

Its been going around the net for some time now...from what i gather the dog had a few broken bones but was otherwise just fine.
Thanks I was just curious, it's the dog lover in me I guess.   Budnicks
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Budnicks

Quote from: Old Moparz on May 17, 2011, 08:26:44 AM
Not my dog in the pic, although the dopey mutt I had, "Tiger", a shepherd-lab mix, did jump out of my Hearse once while I was doing about 25 or 30 MPH.  :lol:

Took him to the vet for a check up & on the way he kept trying to look out the window that I had opened a few inches. He rested his neck on the edge of the glass holding all his weight up & made himself cough, choke & drool all over the side of the car. On the way back I opened the window for him as he appeared to be behaving. I made a turn on the last street before my house & heard a noise, looked over, & all I saw was the dog's ass & tail going out the open window.

I didn't see him land, but he did land on the asphalt pavement. I also saw a woman on her front lawn with a look of sheer horror seeing a big dog fly out of a moving Hearse. She grabbed her toddler that was in the grass playing by the arm, & ran into the house with the kid dangling beside her. She moved so fast I bet the kid bounced off the door frame going in. I stopped the car to get the dog hoping he was okay, & he was fine. I just had to wait for him to finish peeing on the tree he was at.  :lol:
I've had a couple of dogs do that stupid stuff. I have had Labs for years, 1 was going after some geese he saw & another after a squirrel I think, they were young & just being stupid, the older dogs never tried that stuff. Thanks for the answer, I was just curious.  It's just the dog lover in me I guess.  Budnicks
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

69rtse4spd

I was wondering the same thing about the dog, had a Saint Barnard jump out of my truck one time. Was only going about 5 m.p.h., landed in the grass was fine, dog lover to.

bsakal

Since I'm a building inspector, aluminum in direct contact with pressure treated wood is a problem I see all the time. Here's what is listed in their frequently asked questions...Very important...

There has been concern about PT wood on the Maine Deck Bracket being made of aluminum.  The problem is the copper content in the treating process and the reaction between dissimilar metals.  It has been recommended by both the treating people we talked to and the aluminum manufactures is to simply staple felt paper, poly, or other material that would not allow direct contact with the wood, to the wood where the Bracket contact point would be before installing.  This should eliminate any problems with he use of the Maine Deck Bracket and Treated lumber.

Here's another building product that I'm surprised hasn't been used around here yet....
http://redifooting.com/
69 Charger SE - 66 Chrysler Newport 383

PocketThunder

Quote from: bsakal on May 18, 2011, 08:28:17 PMHere's another building product that I'm surprised hasn't been used around here yet....
http://redifooting.com/


Well would you look at that....  But, you still have to go thru the not so fun part of digging the hole in the ground.      :eek2:
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

Old Moparz

Quote from: PocketThunder on May 19, 2011, 08:45:10 AM

Quote from: bsakal on May 18, 2011, 08:28:17 PM

Here's another building product that I'm surprised hasn't been used around here yet....
http://redifooting.com/


Well would you look at that....  But, you still have to go thru the not so fun part of digging the hole in the ground.      :eek2:


Good point about the reaction to the aluminum, I knew it didn't agree with steel, but the pressure treated lumber is new to me.  :2thumbs:

That plastic deck footing looks like an awesome product.  :2thumbs:

There was a company in the mid to late 1990's on Long Island in NY that was using recycled plastic, the same type as a milk bottle, to make "plastic lumber" for docks & piers. I had contacted them when I was planning my garage since the first floor is constructed like a pole barn (post & beam). They were making different sizes, but the 6x6's I wanted weren't scheduled to be done for several months. Not sure what the reason was, but they have since gone out of business.

By the way Pocket Thunder, get the kids to dig holes, kids love holes & tunnels. That's what me & my friends did when my Dad wanted a drywell. We dug the hole, then a 25 foot tunnel. :lol:
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

Budnicks

Quote from: Old Moparz on May 19, 2011, 10:02:01 AM
Quote from: PocketThunder on May 19, 2011, 08:45:10 AM

Quote from: bsakal on May 18, 2011, 08:28:17 PM

Here's another building product that I'm surprised hasn't been used around here yet....
http://redifooting.com/


Well would you look at that....  But, you still have to go thru the not so fun part of digging the hole in the ground.      :eek2:


Good point about the reaction to the aluminum, I knew it didn't agree with steel, but the pressure treated lumber is new to me.  :2thumbs:

That plastic deck footing looks like an awesome product.  :2thumbs:

There was a company in the mid to late 1990's on Long Island in NY that was using recycled plastic, the same type as a milk bottle, to make "plastic lumber" for docks & piers. I had contacted them when I was planning my garage since the first floor is constructed like a pole barn (post & beam). They were making different sizes, but the 6x6's I wanted weren't scheduled to be done for several months. Not sure what the reason was, but they have since gone out of business.

By the way Pocket Thunder, get the kids to dig holes, kids love holes & tunnels. That's what me & my friends did when my Dad wanted a drywell. We dug the hole, then a 25 foot tunnel. :lol:
I don't think they would approve that "redifooting" here in Calif... I could be wrong... Especially in the snow country, here in the Sierras. When I lived in Palmer Alaska in 1982-85 things were much easier to get through the building dept. than they ever were here in Calif...
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

bsakal

I attended a seminar that was run by Simpson about 2 years ago. They said that even powder coated hardware wouldn't last with pressure treated wood. That one I can't figure out, except for the fact that they want to sell more products. We did our own little test at work with PT wood. We installed a 2x into a standard galvanized Simpson joist hanger, and used regular galvanized nails, and did the same with Hot-Dipped Galvanized hardware, then left them sit on the roof of the building for a year. We took it apart and the standard galvanized joist hanger had started to rust in the pocket, it wasn't visible on the outside until you removed the joist.  :o
69 Charger SE - 66 Chrysler Newport 383

Patronus

You'll all be long gone by the time a properly installed and flashed ledger rots out. And I also strongly recommend against using any treated pine, except where load is involved. And if it is, is a flawed design.  :Twocents:
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE