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Cooling system... new ?

Started by grdprx, May 13, 2011, 11:21:25 PM

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grdprx

Been working on my cooling system.  I have a 22" core support and didn't want to convert.  I'd found an old Mopar 22" when I first got my car, but I came to find out it's from a C body.  The brackets on the side pull the radiator about an inch off the core support!   :brickwall:  :brickwall:  Plus that bad boy leaked, had it repaired; but started squirting again.  Found that Champion made a 22" for my Charger, so I decided to go that route.  Got it in there without too much trouble.  Had to elongate the top holes in the bracket a bit, maybe a 1/4" off.

Another problem I've been having, is the temp is reading 230-250!   :flame:  :flame:  But the engine didn't seem to be running that hot.  I was running straight water with the old radiator since it had leaky issues.  I wasn't having any boiling, so I was thinking my dash gauge was wrong.  Got myself a cluster of gauges but could not, for the life of me, get the plug off the water pump housing!   :brickwall:  :brickwall:  Even tried taking a 3' breaker bar to it!  The square started stretching a bit too...  So I was searching around on here, seems there is no other place to tap for a 2nd sensor.  But I saw a suggestion to try a cooking thermometer in the top of the radiator while the car is running, to compare with the dash.  I don't have access to a infrared temp sensor right now...  Anyway, the highest I got the thermometer to read was 175 after 10-15 minutes of idling and putting some RPM in it.  So, I'm guessing my assumption was right.

Any suggestions on getting that plug out?  I'd still like to have that 2nd gauge.

Also, should I still try and check the temp with an infrared gun?

elacruze

Iron plugs can be very tough, they tend to weld themselves in by rust.

You'll have to take the water pump off, or at least pull the pump wheel off the front and get something inside to catch drill chips.
Center punch the plug as accurately as possible, and drill a pilot hole 3/16" or so. (If you don't have high quality drills, you'll want some) Drill progressively larger holes until you see exposed threads in the last largest bit. Then you should be able to use a chisel to collapse one side of the plug and it should come loose all around.
Heating isn't really an option with the housing on the motor.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

firefighter3931

The IR gun is a great tuning tool  :2thumbs:

I like to shoot temps all over the engine & rad to see what's going on. In your case it appears that the temp sensor is shot so it should be replaced.

I'd pull the housing and remove the waterpump....then get some heat on those pesky plugs and remove them to install new sending units  :yesnod:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

grdprx

I agree, I'd feel better about pulling the housing now that I think about it.  No way to get anything in the engine if I work on the housing on the bench.  I'll try a new sensor before I pull it apart, it was a new one, but that doesn't count for much these days..  Thanks guys.

grdprx

Got another problem now.  I had a freeze plug pop out over the winter.  have been using a rubber plug because I can't get a new metal one in with the tight space.  Well, with the new radiator that don't leak, the pressure in the system popped the rubber plug out today on me!  :brickwall:  :brickwall:   Luckily I was parked and the car had been sitting for 5 min.  Sucked big time, got it put back together and back home.

Is there a way to put a brass freeze plug in without pulling the motor?  I tried for 2 weeks without success before someone recommended the rubber plug.

HANDM

I had to remove the whole drivers side motor mount and bracket assembly on mine to get to the popped one on that side, wasn't all that tough, just a pain in the ass.
Wound up replacing them all as the ones installed when I had the engine rebuilt were not brass and had a real shallow shoulder.

Same thing on the passenger side

grdprx

Quote from: HANDM on May 18, 2011, 12:43:00 AM
I had to remove the whole drivers side motor mount and bracket assembly on mine to get to the popped one on that side, wasn't all that tough, just a pain in the ass.
Wound up replacing them all as the ones installed when I had the engine rebuilt were not brass and had a real shallow shoulder.

Same thing on the passenger side

I may have to give that a shot.  What did you use to seat the plug?

Cooter

Word of caution...NEVER run straight water in a cooling system...Even when there's a leak...NO rust inhibitors to keep scale down...As for the freeze plug out, depending on where it is, I use an extension and old scocket to get at it then knock 'em in...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

elacruze

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

HANDM

Apparently I was mistaken when I said that I did the plugs on the Charger.......musta been the polara.

I found this out by putting water in the radiator and discovered that, get this........ALL MY FACKING FREEZE PLUGS POPPED OUT!!!!!!!!!!
Now I'm looking at tearing the whole damn thing apart to get to them!

IT! UCK! AMMIT!




grdprx

Quote from: HANDM on May 18, 2011, 05:29:12 PM
Apparently I was mistaken when I said that I did the plugs on the Charger.......musta been the polara.

I found this out by putting water in the radiator and discovered that, get this........ALL MY FACKING FREEZE PLUGS POPPED OUT!!!!!!!!!!
Now I'm looking at tearing the whole damn thing apart to get to them!

IT! UCK! AMMIT!






Damn!  That sucks man!   :brickwall:   I feel your pain.  Anyone know if any of the parts stores rent the tool?  I'll see what I can do without it, but it'd be helpful to have.

HANDM

I just got through re-installing the drivers side plugs, sucked, but really not that bad. Had to jack the engine up completely to remove the whole mount assembly, thank god the one behind the starter is fine, I wasn't looking forward to yanking the header.

After tracking down a couple new plugs, I'm planning on throwing them in tomorrow, put the passenger mount back in and water test........

Oh, and I hear that I should use loctite on them.......
That sound right? Sounds like a good idea to me  :shruggy:

FLG

Nothings required on the freeze plugs, to be safe i just used some gasket shellac (the one in the small brown container)...they havent leaked  :2thumbs:

Rolling_Thunder

your problem is you have a generic GM style sensor - so your stock gauge will read hot....       they use a different ohms range --   I discovered this when I installed an autometer sensor and hooked up my stock gauge...    pegged but never had symptoms of overheating -
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

grdprx

Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on May 20, 2011, 01:32:44 AM
your problem is you have a generic GM style sensor - so your stock gauge will read hot....       they use a different ohms range --   I discovered this when I installed an autometer sensor and hooked up my stock gauge...    pegged but never had symptoms of overheating -

Got the sensor from Napa.. Do I need to go to the Dealer?