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well I got the old dash harness out and new one in.

Started by 70charginglizard, May 07, 2011, 10:22:25 PM

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70charginglizard

Got motivated enough today to yank that old piece of poopie dash harness and got the new one in. just have to wait for some work needed on the cluster alt gage and radio ipod line incorp and it will hopefully be back together in working shape in a week or two.  :2thumbs:

Man my back is killing me....



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70charginglizard

resq302

yeh that dash harness can be a royal pain in the arse.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

70charginglizard

getting to it wasnt too bad.


Getting it out and getting the new one in totally sucked.  :RantExplode:



I never want to have to do that again. lol
70charginglizard

Rolling_Thunder

Can always be worse my friend - troubleshooting a dash harness is not something i like doing - usually some radio installer cuts a wire or something and causes havoc elsewhere....      I'm 6'1 and broad shouldered....    crawling under dashes utterly sucks...         

1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Silver R/T

be glad that you didn't have to do it on a newer car
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

y3chargerrt

Taking out the front seats makes working under the dash so much easier.

RECHRGD

Quote from: y3chargerrt on May 08, 2011, 06:58:28 AM
Taking out the front seats makes working under the dash so much easier.

Agreed!  At 63 it's an absolute requirement.
13.53 @ 105.32

BrianShaughnessy

Nice! 

Red Line doing a volt meter conversion ?    :2thumbs:
Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

70charginglizard

Quote from: BrianShaughnessy on May 08, 2011, 09:05:05 AM
Nice!  

Red Line doing a volt meter conversion ?    :2thumbs:

Actually I'm dropping off the cluster to a place called JC automotives to do that. They do it pretty routinely and they said they look over the other gages for me as well on the cluster.

I just hope they get it done in time for me to get it back in so I can make my Cruise to Colby show and cruise. That's the key and that show is memorial day weekend.

I just cant wait to have all this electrical stuff behind me now.  :2thumbs:

They are also rebuilding my original am radio with a pigtail for MP3 usage. That should be pretty cool. They said thats gonna take a bit longer but I dont need the radio in to make the show so no big deal there.
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

can some go out and tell me which side the double pink and which side the white connects to on the stop lamp switch for there brakes. I cant remember. Does it even matter?
70charginglizard

Nacho-RT74

doesn't matter. Mostly sure would have an standart factory setup, but really doesn't matter.

I usually use the fixed prong to the pink and the moving prong to the white
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BrianShaughnessy

I just got a email from YearOne...

25% off wiring harnesses today only.    Code is WIRE1 at checkout. 

Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

70charginglizard

Just got the call yesterday. My alternator gage upgrade on the dash cluster is done so I get to go down and pick that up today and finally get this all back together to see if it all works. hurray.   they also found me the original wire harness and speaker set up for rear speaker option. Cool. I'm gonna put that in for the original radio rebuild im also having them do for me.  :2thumbs:

I'll let you all know later how everything came back together
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Well I got it in. got the car started and everything worked great for a minute or two and then poof. out went the dash lights. I think that new dimmer switch I just bought is a defective one so I'm gonna take it out and have it tested. Grrr. At least I got the car started and running and the dash gages, console and A01 lighting stuff seems to be all working great. Few more little bugs to work out and I should be back in business :2thumbs:
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

Never mind. the dimmer switch is working now. the screw holding it in was loose. Tightened it up and it now works.

:2thumbs:


Only real issue now is that my headlight door relay isnt working with the headlight switch. I may have to go back to my toggle switch setup until I figure that one out later.
70charginglizard

six-tee-nine

You just GOT to show us some pictures of the voltmeter conversion..... I did'nt knew it already existed but I was thinking about that myself but since that is waaaay to far ahead to be concerned about i wasn't really thinking about it. but that's another question answered....
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


70charginglizard

Quote from: six-tee-nine on May 19, 2011, 12:43:53 PM
You just GOT to show us some pictures of the voltmeter conversion..... I did'nt knew it already existed but I was thinking about that myself but since that is waaaay to far ahead to be concerned about i wasn't really thinking about it. but that's another question answered....

There is really not much to see. It looks just like it did before I brought it to JC automotive restoration to have it done other then there being two very nice shinny studs coming out of the back of the gage that now have internal welds holding them in. Much better then factory.  :2thumbs:


Im more concerned about my headlight doors not working now. They were working fine with the old harness and relay. All the sudden with this new harness I have nothing.

I'm thinking that perhaps my cleaner current in the new harness might have fried my old headlight motor. I'm going to test it locally when I get home tonight. Either that or my old relay burned out under the stronger cleaner current.  :brickwall: lol
70charginglizard

70charginglizard

lol...it was just two of the bolts on the headlight motor. I guess the reverb of that 440 loosend them up or something. everything workin now.  :2thumbs:
70charginglizard

resq302

Quote from: 70charginglizard on May 19, 2011, 10:03:51 PM
lol...it was just two of the bolts on the headlight motor. I guess the reverb of that 440 loosend them up or something. everything workin now.  :2thumbs:

:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto