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voltage limiters

Started by randy73, May 07, 2011, 10:05:33 PM

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randy73

Are solid state voltage limiters worth the extra cost on a 73 charger w/rallye dash?

A383Wing

I say they are worth it...doesn't make any difference what car it's put on....they are around $40-$50 each...steady voltage...saves wear & tear on the dash gauge fine wire inside.

I built my own for my 66 Chargers from Radio shack parts for under $10

resq302

Quote from: A383Wing on May 07, 2011, 10:11:31 PM
I say they are worth it...doesn't make any difference what car it's put on....they are around $40-$50 each...steady voltage...saves wear & tear on the dash gauge fine wire inside.

I built my own for my 66 Chargers from Radio shack parts for under $10


I built my own too and hid it inside the original case.  Damn thing got so hot, I could have burned my finger.  Worried that I would melt something, I ended up buying one for around $45 or so and feel it was the best money I could have spent.  Gauges are nice and steady now and no more worries about frying the gauges if the point style one should peg!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Dans 68

Quote from: randy73 on May 07, 2011, 10:05:33 PM
Are solid state voltage limiters worth the extra cost on a 73 charger w/rallye dash?

Yes.

Dan
1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

myk

Are we talking about the gauge cluster voltage regulator?  If so, I think mine just went out because my gauges are either flat dead or pegging out.  I've been meaning to tear into it to look for a bad ground or this regulator, so if we're talking about the same thing then I need to get this solid state-thingy...

A383Wing

Quote from: myk on May 08, 2011, 05:51:34 AM
Are we talking about the gauge cluster voltage regulator?  If so, I think mine just went out because my gauges are either flat dead or pegging out.  I've been meaning to tear into it to look for a bad ground or this regulator, so if we're talking about the same thing then I need to get this solid state-thingy...

you better unplug it or remove it before it puts a full 12v to your gauges for a time and burns them all out

resq302

Quote from: A383Wing on May 08, 2011, 01:04:14 PM
Quote from: myk on May 08, 2011, 05:51:34 AM
Are we talking about the gauge cluster voltage regulator?  If so, I think mine just went out because my gauges are either flat dead or pegging out.  I've been meaning to tear into it to look for a bad ground or this regulator, so if we're talking about the same thing then I need to get this solid state-thingy...

you better unplug it or remove it before it puts a full 12v to your gauges for a time and burns them all out

I agree.  Burned out my coolant temp gauge that way!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bluegrasscharger

Can someone explain what a solid state limiter is?  Is there a unsolid state limiter?  I bought a voltage limiter for my gauge cluster for like $10 at Autozone.  But it has a little tab on the back of it that the original did not have.  Is the wrong one?  Is this a solid state limiter or what?  Pic attached of the new limiter.

resq302

Solid state means that it has electronic / transistorized guts to it.  Your "unsolid" state is a point style set up that acts just like a set of points on a distributor.  Basically what the points do is open and close at a given rate to take the 12 volts and average it out to 5 or 6 volts that the gauges need to work.  If the points get stuck closed, full 12 volts will go to the gauges and burn them out, if the points get stuck open, 0 volts will go to the gauges and they wont work.  Solid state limiters convert 12 volts down to a solid (unfluctuating) 5 or 6 volts.  The solid state version is more reliable and less likey to fail.  What the solid state also offers is no delay in the voltage getting to the gauges causing inaccurate readings.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bluegrasscharger

Quote from: resq302 on May 08, 2011, 06:33:14 PM
Solid state means that it has electronic / transistorized guts to it.  Your "unsolid" state is a point style set up that acts just like a set of points on a distributor.  Basically what the points do is open and close at a given rate to take the 12 volts and average it out to 5 or 6 volts that the gauges need to work.  If the points get stuck closed, full 12 volts will go to the gauges and burn them out, if the points get stuck open, 0 volts will go to the gauges and they wont work.  Solid state limiters convert 12 volts down to a solid (unfluctuating) 5 or 6 volts.  The solid state version is more reliable and less likey to fail.  What the solid state also offers is no delay in the voltage getting to the gauges causing inaccurate readings.

So is the one in my pic a solid state limiter?  Are the originals solid state?  The original doesn't have that tab on the back.  So I am wondering if it the right one.

resq302

For $10 it sounds like it is an after market points style replacement.  The solid state ones are usually around $40 to $75 dollars Ive found.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

WhiteOnGreen

I installed the RTE limiter 50$ and I am very satisfied with it, the gauges give a more precise reading especially I noticed it in the fuel and oil pressure gauges