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Another set back for my engine build need some advise

Started by TXcharger70, May 18, 2011, 06:52:13 PM

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TXcharger70

 :brickwall: OK so it has been a long process with my motor build it has been one set back after another. My latest set back is that i just figured out that after putting my engine together and getting my engine ready to fire up we were adjusting my rockers and saw that my pushrods on the intake side were rubbing a bit. I previously had done some grinding to allow for 3/8 pushrods but, i guess i didn't see them rubbing at the time i was test fitting. They are rubbing and the very top when the valve is closed. Now what do i do? I know the correct way is to tear apart the motor again to prevent any shavings from contaminating the motor. I was wondering if there was a way to do some minor grinding on my heads to gain the clearance i need  by masking everything off, or if anybody has had to do some work on there heads while they are bolted on. What are you guys thoughts? It just sucks cause i have lost count how many times i have taken this motor apart and i am tired of doing it just want to hear the dam thing run  :'(


By the way i have 440 source heads
1.6 rockers

FLG

Tough decision...

If you can tape every little thing off completely and get a friend to hold a shop vac to suck up any shavings im gonna say it would be your best bet...but i dont want to say for sure.

How much exactaly is required to come off?

Better to take it apart now and be safe, than ruin it and wind up in a whole mess of crap.


elacruze

Take it apart or you'll regret it. I might leave the valves and springs on, because you can tape them off and wash them afterwards but you sure don't want any iron filings on the cam or in the oil.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

FLG

Quote from: elacruze on May 18, 2011, 10:19:28 PM
Take it apart or you'll regret it. I might leave the valves and springs on, because you can tape them off and wash them afterwards but you sure don't want any iron filings on the cam or in the oil.

I agree, id be concerned with the bearings...and you dont want to get stuck doing a rebuild.

Challenger340

IMO,
might just be safer, quicker, and overall more cost effective time-wise, to just go buy some 5/16" .080" Wall Moly Pushrods ? PLENTY strong enough.
That,
or ?
can you move the Rocker Arm over a bit, by adjusting the positioning of the Hold-Downs ? narrow the spacers & shim the opposite side of the Rocker ?

I've had to fart around on 3/8" tubes on Stealths, thats what I did, albeit using Crane gold rockers.
Only wimps wear Bowties !

TXcharger70

I just bought some custom Lent 3/8 smith brother push rods and I am using 1.6 crane gold so going to a 5/16 would cost me more I would think than just taking it apart again right?. By the way this a 383 (496) stroker build. How far over can you move the rockers over and still be safe?

MSRacing89

I have Crand Golds and 3/8" rods with Stealth heads and I did not experience these issues.  I am wondering why this is happening?  Are all the intake and exhaust rockers in the correct spot?

I suggest you billet aluminum hold downs for the rocker shaft and use a shim kit create the space needed. 

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

TXcharger70

Can I reuse my valley pan gasket if I have not fired up my engine yet

TXcharger70

A friend was telling me I could shim the rockers and put some lash caps on to give the Clearance I need is this correct?