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Should we be avoiding semi-metallic brake pads?

Started by bull, April 26, 2011, 01:27:11 AM

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bull

You may know that my original intent with the 68 was to do the bare minimum and get it road worthy while I saved money for the full-on restoration. Part of that plan was to get the brakes working so about six years ago I bought a bunch of stuff to convert the Charger to front disc brakes, including a pair of loaded '73 Challenger calipers with semi-metallic brake pads. Well, long story short, the "run it" plan failed and I decided to do a total restoration on the car so the disc brake parts were taken off and shelved.

Fast forward to today when it's time for them to go back on. I didn't expect this but as I was checking the calipers out I noticed that the metallic properties in those pads has really gotten rusty, which got me thinking: do guys with hobby cars that sit for long periods of time usually avoid semi-metallic brake pads? Is it better to go with ceramic or the common, low-end organic pads so to avoid the potential for rust?

As it relates to your classic Charger, what is your preferred type of brake pad and why?

1969chargerrtse

The rust stuff will grind off day one and that should be that.  
I use always use semi in front and organic in rear.  The one time I put semi in front and rear I almost got killed as my 88 stang conv just did not stop while I was coming to an intersection.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

resq302

Bull,

I have original made disc pads in the front on my charger that still contain asbestos and my rotors have flash rusting on them from sitting inside my garage.  Any bare metal part will start to eventually rust even in the most climate controlled garage.  Like mentioned in the previous post, the first time you use the brakes it will wear off!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Charger-Bodie

Plus the stopping power and heat production is far more beneficial with the semi metallic.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

bull

All right. Thanks. :2thumbs:

Oh yea, and what about calipers that have been sitting around for that long too? Should I flush them and/or run the plunger in and out a few times?

resq302

Main question I have to ask is how were they stored?  Were the holes plugged where the brake line attached with that plastic type of cap and bleeder screw tight?  If so, there should be no way moisture could have gotten in there to rust it.  If the hole where the line connects were left open with no plug, I would be a bit leery and test them out a couple times to make sure that they go most of the way out and back in with no issues.

How long again were they sitting for after being rebuilt?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

A383Wing

the entire brake fluid system should be flushed every 2 years whether it's driven or not...moisture will collect in the master cylinder and will find it's way throughout the system.

bull

Quote from: resq302 on April 26, 2011, 10:58:41 AM
Main question I have to ask is how were they stored?  Were the holes plugged where the brake line attached with that plastic type of cap and bleeder screw tight?  If so, there should be no way moisture could have gotten in there to rust it.  If the hole where the line connects were left open with no plug, I would be a bit leery and test them out a couple times to make sure that they go most of the way out and back in with no issues.

How long again were they sitting for after being rebuilt?

No, I didn't plug them and for the life of me I don't know why. Normally I would have taken better care of something like this but I didn't. I'm thinking of just trading them off for another reman pair.

resq302

Well, try them and see.  I would first see if they are frozen by using a little (VERY LITTLE) air pressure and put it in the brake line hole and see if the piston moves out or not.  If it does chances are it is not frozen.  I personally would put a piece of 2x4 or some other kind of wood in between the caliper and the piston so if the pressure is too much and the piston pops out, it wont damage either the caliper or the piston itself.  If it moves nice and free, chances are you will be in good shape and just when you bleed the brakes, flush out the caliper a little longer.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bull

I'll work them over tomorrow. See what I can see. Thanks.

elacruze

I don't trust reman brake parts. I rebuild my own-it's cheaper (I'm squeaky) and then I know exactly what's in there, and what's not.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

440

I don't like organic pads, they have a softer feel and have a higher wear rate then semi-metallics. The only benefit of organics that I see is that they are easy on the rotors. Every set of semi-metallic pads that I've used has had far better stopping power then organic.

Of course the asbestos pads were the best but they are gone now :(

resq302

Quote from: 440 on April 27, 2011, 08:53:31 AM
I don't like organic pads, they have a softer feel and have a higher wear rate then semi-metallics. The only benefit of organics that I see is that they are easy on the rotors. Every set of semi-metallic pads that I've used has had far better stopping power then organic.

Of course the asbestos pads were the best but they are gone now :(

Not unless you have a stash on hand like myself   ;)
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto