motor changed and I can't get a spark

[sixpack_sid]

Long story short we changed 305 motor with a 305 motor from an 82 Blazer both had 4 bbl carbs. Finally got it together and it doesn't start. I sprayed ether in the carb, it cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled a spark plug wire and put a screwdriver in it. Cranked it over and there is no spark. I have new plugs, new wires, new cap on it. I had the ign. module checked and it passed. I called the junkyard where I bought the engine from and he said it ran when he pulled it. He said the firing order must be wrong. I followed the book and hooked it up the way it showed. My son did not mark the wires on the old cap before he pulled them so I am not positive on the order. It shows #1 position is different depending on HEI or contact breaker point ignition. The ign on the old motor is HEI because the pic in the book matches the distributor. Does contact breaker point ign. mean points and condensor? The distributor on the Blazer doesn't look the same-meaning the setup under the cap. Anyway the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. But I'm not sure where #1 plug should go-I followed position for HEI. Would the wrong wiring position cause no spark at all? I would figure even if the plug wires are wrong, you would still see spark when you start it.
Am I missing something? Where do I go from here? I REALLY WANT this done and OUT of my garage so I can get back to my 68 Charger resto!!
Please help!!

[b5blue]

Even wrong you'd get spark and plenty of it...in the wrong holes at the wrong time! Go back to basics with a meter, check for volts where you need it and check all grounds also. 

[femtnmax]

Firing order will not affect whether there is spark.   Can you install the "old' ignition off the old engine?  I assume the old setup worked, if so then put it in and get it running.  Chevy V8 used to have #1 at front of drivers side, with odd # cylinders on drivers side.

[sixpack_sid]

Firing order will not affect whether there is spark.   Can you install the "old' ignition off the old engine?  I assume the old setup worked, if so then put it in and get it running.  Chevy V8 used to have #1 at front of drivers side, with odd # cylinders on drivers side.

The ign. module works. I had it tested. I have the plugs right on the block, but am not sure of the plug wire order on the cap. Does #1 go to the left of the plug on the cap? I think the book says to set #1 on the second terminal after the plug. and the order is clockwise after that 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. So 2 & 1 are on the left side of the plug. Is this right?

[Cooter]

Need to get the engine on TDC compression stroke...THEN, wire engine in correct firing order..HEI will NOT work for very long when wired to the STOCK POINTS ignition wire, it is a resistor wire and HEI needs full 12 volts. Time the Engine, then the distributor...#1 on the cap SHOULD point to the number one cylinder(Tower on the distributor cap), at the front LEFT side I think on a Small Block Chevy. But, this is only for reference as you can start number one at any place as long as the rotor is pointing at number one wherever it may be..When you swapped the cap out, did you be sure and swap the coil in the HEI distributor to the new cap?

[sixpack_sid]

Thats it I had it with this pile of crap they call a chevy. I just got back from towing that pile to the shop. In the pooring rain. I'm soaked but happy to see it out of my garage. Hopefully it won't cost to much. Now I can start on my 68 charger.

Thanks for all the replies


Sid

[Cooter]

Dang, chewvy is one of the easier engines to work on...I hope that Charger goes better for you..

[sixpack_sid]

I got it back from the garage today and they charged my son $275  to change the ign. module and put a used trigger harness on it. He said the ign. module was being shorted out by the wiring. So he cleaned up the top of the distributor and put 3 qts of trans fluid in to get it to move. The garage is about 10 min from my house and the car was overheating and the valves were tapping by the time we got it home! Spent that much $$ and they couldn't even put it on timing for me or make sure the car would even make it home! So we let it cool down and put some antifreeze in it, topped of the trans fluid, checked the oil, which was good and set it up on timing. The car still doesn't sound right. When i looked in the carb, the gas is not steadily streaming through, more like sprinkling intermittently. I'm out of ideas. I'm thinking of getting a fuel gauge to mount on the line before the carb to see if it's getting enough gas to it.  I have one on my Charger. I bought it when I was having problems with that engine. I just don't remember where I got it, it's been so long. Anyone have any ideas, I'd be glad to hear it!
Thanks,
Sid

[resq302]

Hell, if it was doing all of that I would have brought it right back down to the shop and chewed them a new one!

[Kern Dog]

This is always a source of anxiety for me: Starting a fresh engine! I have had "No spark" issues several times on first fire. I'm certain that it has led to cam failures. The hughes engines website had a bit that read... "the engine MUST start immediately because the cam lube gets scraped off after as little as 4 revolutions of the motor."
It makes sense to me.