charging blues

[Patronus]

Thanks for your help Nacho. Its not the alternator, I just put the last one we used for test back in and it checks 13.8v
I have some misgivings about the fusible link from starter relay to bulkhead connector. I should replace it. I've seen no real way to remove it from the connector though.

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let me add fusible link to the list...

[Patronus]

Read this: "Basically, a wire is added to the second Field brush on the alternator. On the orignal alternator, this brush is grounded to the case of the alternator, so you'll need to either change the alternator to a 1970 or new style, or adapt the newer brush set to the old alternator. The brush set costs about $5 at your local parts store. The second field wire is connected to the outside plug on the newer voltage regulator. (two plugs, one is in the middle, one is on the outside). The original field wire that ran to the "FLD" plug on the original regulator (green wire) needs to be connected with the wire that ran to the "IGN" side of the original regulator. This wire (both the old FLD and the old IGN) need to be connected to the center plug on the newer regulator as well. One other important thing is, the new regulator must have a good ground (-) signal to its case. Mount the new VR to a fender or the firewall and be sure to sand a little paint off the fender and the case so you have a good ground. If there isn't a good ground to the new regultor case, the charging system will not work properly!" This says the IGN "AND" FLD wire run together to the new VR, not just the GRN FLD. So then the blue wire from new VR runs by itself to the other prong on alt. correct? Nacho, you have it drawn IGN to BLU, FLD run alone.

[Nacho-RT74]

Blue wire of RUN circuit feeds EVERYTHING on engine no matter the model. You have a main splice to feed everything from there under the harness tape on later models due the several devices added allong the years OR running splicing wires from terminal to terminal due the lack of devices, like on earliers where you have just the regulator and ballast to feed, thats all.

This includes BOTH regulators requiring 12 volts from ign switch ( earliers and laters ) and also the brush JUST on laters 2 fields. The laters VR doesn't send the signal to the field on blue wire, just turns on the regulator to makes it work. The field on alt being feeded by a blue wire just get full 12 Volts + lead from ign switch same as the VR itself

The the GREEN wire is the REGULATED source coming from regulator itself, no other source, no matter if + or - lead. On earliers with a grounded brush and old kind regs, the signal on wire is POSITIVE. On laters with both brushes isolated and flat laters reg and rubber plug, the green wire is NEGATIVE, regulated, but still negative

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A little update: got another alternator from Summit, a one wire with internal regulator. Pretty nice, 75 amp. I have it hooked up and have 13.9v at the battery! FINALLY!!    It was going good and then the new 8g fusible link I soldered in from starter relay back into the bulkhead connector blew, it was only a 20amp fuse though. I have the alt. wired with a new 8g wire to battery with a 50amp inline fuse and the original black main power feed from alt. to original harness. So what amp fuse should that fusible firewall connection have? Should I be worried about too many amps now for the o.g. wiring??

edit: 20amp is holding for now

[Nacho-RT74]

which alt you got ? TuffStuff? Powermaster ?

The fuse link ( 8g ? are you sure?  ) blew due the low charge on batt and suking all the power alt was giving at certain RPMs, what FOR SURE was more than 20 amps LOL.

in line fuses are not recomended for automotive use on main line unless you overrate them to hold peaks ( very tipical on cars ), so fuse link is my advice. 14 Gauge is more than enough ( original is 16g )

the extra wire you fit to starter relay its bypassing the ammeter, now the main splice into the cab is being feeded from alt AND from BATT by both sides, two bulkhead terminals, and load being shared. Not my fav job, but helps, yes

the original wiring even without the new wire will hold the load since once the car charge is balanced and alt is able to feed the car, barelly will get high load peaks, untill you begin to add accesories.

remember you can get A 300 AMPS ALT if you want, but if car demans just 50, the alt will feed JUST 50, so the extra amperage able to give the alt won't be used EVER. Just if batt dies, could be increased

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Powermaster 74091. Good to know on the fusible, I will switch it out. Finally drove it, first time in 2 1/2 years, with the windows rolled up, cruzin at night, super clear new glass, ah man it was beautiful...