dash, taillights and side marker lighting out.....RESOLVED.

[nascarxx29]

For the dashlights you could remove the 3 amp fuse and do the jumper wire test there aswell and check results. This may help you a color coded wiring diagram.There might be even one online somewere
http://www.classiccarwiring.com/

[nascarxx29]

So are you saying things that were not working before.  The jumper wire test restored all but the dashlights.                One of the cars I chased electrical gremlins from

[67tbird]

I am having exactly the same problem and have started wondering if my dash voltage limiter isn't bad or shorting. you would think if it was the gauges would max, just like when you ground gas tank sender, I'll be following your thread also! Dave   ps just found this http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=electrical&thread=8414&page=1

[nascarxx29]

The dash limiter also known as the instrument voltage regulator converts 12 volts to a pulsing 5 volts into the gauges when ignition switch is turned on .There is a better and improved voltage limiter with no points on the market

Note dash cluster need to be well grounded   
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13944.0.html

[nascarxx29]

Check the contacts and connections on the circuit board
http://www.chargerspecialties.com/gauges.htm
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,79537.msg894206/topicseen.html#msg894206

[70charginglizard]

So are you saying things that were not working before.  The jumper wire test restored all but the dashlights.                One of the cars I chased electrical gremlins from

Yep. Odd huh.   I am trying to avoid a complete rip out of the dash if at all possible although I highly doubt I'm going to get away with that wish.

My main issue is timing. I really didnt want to rip all that stuff out to install a new dash harness right now until I had the time/money to deal with everything else up there. (radio rebuild, windshield wiper rebuild, heater box rebuild, firewall insulation, wiper seals, gage restoration) Unfortunately I'm being pushed into that senerio because the gremlins climbed up there to cause me havic now. I may just do some of it now. The new harness and the heater box rebuild. I know you can get back up there after the fact to do the radio and wiper motor. It just would have been much easier to do it all at once.


such is my luck I supose these days

[nascarxx29]

The way I size up the dash harness to save or discard .To lookover at the underhood bulkhead connection .Underhood where all 3 harness plug in.If its not melted and trashed or butchered .There shouldnt be to many surprises in the dash harness area due to the access.The amp gauge and its wiring should be looked over after cluster been removed .If the amp gauge area shows any signs of electrical issues. And look over the rest of the harness for prior repairs or tampering.And overall condition

[70charginglizard]

The way I size up the dash harness to save or discard .To lookover at the underhood bulkhead connection .Underhood where all 3 harness plug in.If its not melted and trashed or butchered .There shouldnt be to many surprises in the dash harness area due to the access.The amp gauge and its wiring should be looked over after cluster been removed .If the amp gauge area shows any signs of electrical issues. And look over the rest of the harness for prior repairs or tampering.And overall condition

yeah that bulkhead connection point on the dash harness has been a source of my headaches for a number of years now for other ignition issues. This is why if I take that dash cluster out again... the harness will be replaced.

I suspect that the only way to resolve my latest issue with loosing the dash lighting is to remove that cluster to get to the back of everything so I can figure this one out properly so the harness has already been ordered to deal with that.

I was just hoping there could perhaps be some odd way of finding the gremlin without removal of the cluster which its sounding more and more (because of access issues) not a possibility.

[nascarxx29]

But 1st try removing 3 amp instrument fuse and jumper wire both ends of fuse contacts and check results.And grounds are crucial on mopars dash cluster has to be secured to dash frame


There are other ways non textbook ways restore the dashlights that I personally did back in the day.I ran a wire from back of roll dimmer switch connection .A yellow w black stripe wire on the roll switch connector.Down to the headlight floor mounted dimmer switch.You couldnt dim or brighten them but they worked by the headlight or parking light position .Another was either the console shift indicator wire a orange wire tapped into it or the ashtray light which had some orange wire .And ran it to dimmer switch or fuse box key on fuse radio or wipers

[70charginglizard]

It was the stinkin dimmer switch.

Just put a brand new one in from JC Auto Restorations and its all working like a charm 

Thanks again for all of your help.  Now I can put off the new dash harness installation to next year after I have time to save the money to do all the other things I wanted to do then.

I'm sure when I do I'll have all kind of new and improved questions for you all to keep an open ear for me K

Thanks. You guys are awesome