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head light doors

Started by boss429kiwi, May 03, 2011, 07:15:02 PM

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boss429kiwi

Hi

How hard is it to remove the head light doors?
Any tips?
I don't know where to start  ::)

I am wanting to paint the black edging, prior to stalling the new decals.
NEW ZEALAND (aka Paradise)
1973 De Tomaso Pantera GTS widebody
1970 Superbird, 6pack, 4 speed, Tor-Red, Buckets, restored by Julius
1970 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed, calypso Coral, white shaker
1970 Boss 429 KK2457, Concours, Calypso Coral (SOLD)
1957 Chevy truck, big rear window, ocean green, STOCK!.....nice!

nascarxx29

I believe your gonna have to remove the headlight bucket assembly from the nose.If you want only the headlight doors off.The headlight doors are riveted to the pivot bracket
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

pettybird

it's a huge pain in the ass.  I can't overstate that.  Also, you'd have to re-align everything once you're done.  Just remove the decals, paint them in the "up" position the best you can.

Aero426

Quote from: pettybird on May 04, 2011, 11:50:32 AM
it's a huge pain in the ass.  I can't overstate that.  Also, you'd have to re-align everything once you're done.  Just remove the decals, paint them in the "up" position the best you can.

What he said.    Krylon semi flat black will work well.     You want a lightish coat on the headlight surrounds of the nose itself  as you do not want to see a masking tape line under the new decals.   Performance Car Graphics can get you a new set of decals.

boss429kiwi

OK, good advise everyone, especially about the masking edge.

But how do I make the doors stay up?
NEW ZEALAND (aka Paradise)
1973 De Tomaso Pantera GTS widebody
1970 Superbird, 6pack, 4 speed, Tor-Red, Buckets, restored by Julius
1970 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed, calypso Coral, white shaker
1970 Boss 429 KK2457, Concours, Calypso Coral (SOLD)
1957 Chevy truck, big rear window, ocean green, STOCK!.....nice!

Aero426

With the car turned off, just cycle the lights a couple times to exhaust the vacuum supply.    The fail-safe springs will take over and hold the lights up. 

gymratt30

just my 2cents worth......about the "masking tape line" .....its kinda hard not to mask off the area of the nose just above where the decal stops...... if not your overspray will go onto the nose area not covered by the decal,  so you may yet still need to mask off the area, HOWEVER, when you peel the masking tape up, BE SURE TO "FEATHER EDGE" THE LINE LEFT BY THE PAINT BUTTING UP TO THE TAPE ..by using say 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper, you can "take the hard edge off" of the paint so it wont be visible under the decals...... believe me it WILL show if you don't "feather" the paint line down.
"2 superbirds sittin side by side"

UFO

If you haven't removed the decals yet(assuming it's the one in your pic).Why not mask the decal area and mist on a few layers of paint to what's left.

440mop

I don't think the springs are fitted on this car, the lights would never come up on there own!
John
440 4spd Daytona - Sold
Auckland New Zealand

Aero426

Quote from: 440mop on May 06, 2011, 02:38:37 AM
I don't think the springs are fitted on this car, the lights would never come up on there own!
John

Well then the vacuum alone should hold them up long enough.   If not, you can get creative and wedge something in there to keep them up if necessary.  

The idea of feathering or wet sending the tape line with some 600 grit is a good one.   Just don't sand the exposed area.  I would add that you have all kinds of room towards the center of both light openings because the black decal covers so much.  You can spray a little more black towards the center and wet sand it down there with some 600 grit.   It wont take much work.