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Master cylinder rebuild kit, suggestions

Started by hemi68charger, April 03, 2011, 09:54:54 PM

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hemi68charger

Hey gang.
I was sort of curious on which brand I should try and find and/or which ones I should stay away from. I'm currently on my 3rd master cylinder from Cardone and they are junk.

They:
1. didn't pump any fluid
2 & 3, didn't release pressure, so my disc's slowly locked up and wouldn't release.

Yet, when I put back the original master cylinder that was on the car to begin with, it operates fine. I originally took it off for the back seal was leaking a little. It's on my '69 Daytona, factory front disc brakes...

So, now I'm to the point of getting my money back and getting a rebuild kit and doing it myself...

Thanks for any input...
Troy
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

y3chargerrt


resq302

Troy,

If you have to have it rebuilt, might I suggest having the bore sleeved with something like brass or stainless steel.  This way you wont have to worry about the bore rusting and then tearing the rubber piston cups and causing a leak.  White post is a little more but they do offer a lifetime warranty.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

John_Kunkel


Good luck on rebuilding it yourself, in the last 40 years I haven't seen a well used MC that wasn't so pitted as to make rebuilding a waste of time. Have it sleeved and then it'll be rebuildable.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

femtnmax

If brakes are staying locked up, sounds like the actuation pin length between pedal or booster and MC is not correct.   Did you check this?
Phil

tan top

Quote from: resq302 on April 04, 2011, 10:22:11 AM
Troy,

If you have to have it rebuilt, might I suggest having the bore sleeved with something like brass or stainless steel.  This way you wont have to worry about the bore rusting and then tearing the rubber piston cups and causing a leak.  White post is a little more but they do offer a lifetime warranty.

Quote from: John_Kunkel on April 04, 2011, 06:02:47 PM

Good luck on rebuilding it yourself, in the last 40 years I haven't seen a well used MC that wasn't so pitted as to make rebuilding a waste of time. Have it sleeved and then it'll be rebuildable.


:yesnod: :iagree:

had a look  quite a few drum master cylinders  to rebuild ! , as  my original looked like it had spent 100 years at the bottom of the Atlantic  , but they were all the same to a greater or lesser extent !!  stil got my original , to get sleeved at some point  , but went with a replacement cardone one for quickness,  first one  or might of been two i forget now were crap , third one ok  ::)
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

resq302

Unless I am in a pinch and need the part right away, I have pretty much given up on A1 Cardone reman'd stuff.  They don't last, they are a crappy rebuild, or they usually don't work right out of the box.  I'd rather have mine redone by someone reputable.  Guess that is why I have a wide selection of spare parts ready to throw on the car in case something should happen before a show.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

hemi68charger

Quote from: femtnmax on April 04, 2011, 09:07:22 PM
If brakes are staying locked up, sounds like the actuation pin length between pedal or booster and MC is not correct.   Did you check this?

If I put the original master cylinder that was on there to begin with (had a slight leak out the rear), the car acts fine. So, it has nothing to do with anything from the front of the booster back to the pedals.. It is definitely the dang master cylinder. I took the one I had on the car and removed the rear piston and replaced the seal. I also found a good ole' Wagner reman. that should be nuts-on along with 2 Bendix rebuild kits for future work. I will eventually take the one that's on my '69 C500 and send it off to get sleeved by Brake and Equipment Warehouse and rebuild. I'm not going to go through this again with the C500 or the Daytona. I've talked to some others locally and all agree the Cardone brand reman's are junk. It's a damn shame all those cores they have are useless.
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

Chris, I don't think that NAPA carries the repro any longer.  I tried to get one locally and they didnt have it.  Said it was Repair / Restore only.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: resq302 on April 05, 2011, 06:56:42 PM
Chris, I don't think that NAPA carries the repro any longer.  I tried to get one locally and they didnt have it.  Said it was Repair / Restore only.
Try this thread?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,76390.0.html
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

Both of the napa links you posted there Chris came up with errors at the napa site. :rotz:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

hemi68charger

Quote from: resq302 on April 05, 2011, 06:56:42 PM
Chris, I don't think that NAPA carries the repro any longer.  I tried to get one locally and they didnt have it.  Said it was Repair / Restore only.

At least in my neck of the woods, NAPA carries the God-forsaken Cardome product as well. I've had no luck finding any store who has another quality brand. O'Reilly's sells a "new" master cylinder. I figure, ok, I'll order it (there was no picture online). My guts said something wasn't right. Well, I was correct. I get to the store yesterday after work and sure enough, it's some universal mc that claims to be applicable to both front disc and drum. To top of the total farce of it all, the inlets are on the fender side..... The counter-help (I will forgive him for he knows not what he says) swears it's correct because the "computer" says so..  :smilielol: .

I told him, "Young Man, with all due respect, I've been tinkering with these Dodges longer than you've been alive and there is a difference between drum and disc brake mc's."...  ::)

So, like a good person, I told him to bring up the picture listing of the drum and disc brake mc's. "Take a look"..  :angel:

Thanked him for his help and time and went home. Jumped into the Daytona with the mc I put BACK on and voila, worked perfectly. Hopefully the new seal works fine and no more leak.

Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

stripedelete

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on April 05, 2011, 03:47:20 PM
Troy have you tried the NAPA repro?   Thats what i have on mine....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,30312.0.html

One addition, and for future reference, to the thread Chris references:

Prior to NAPA I ordered a new MC from AutoZone. I sent it back because it was not a mirror image of the one currently on the car (mine had lines out the wrong side).   After more research (and the NAPA experience)  I figured out the AutoZone MC was actually correct.  :brickwall:   I reordered a re-man (cause I'm inherently cheap) and that MC was not even close.  By that time my car was shipped out and Bill took care of it.  So I am unable to conclude that every new AutoZone MC is exact.   But I'm certain that one was.  (circa December 2010)