News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

16 yr old's car driving me nuts!! HELP!!

Started by sixpack_sid, March 30, 2011, 06:38:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

sixpack_sid

My 16 year old son has an 81 Camaro that he's been working on. It's been sitting a long while when he bought it. He dropped the gas tank cleaned it out put new gas in it, and put it back up. It ran rough idled fast. He was messing w/it to get it running, gave it a tune up. One day I pulled it in the garage and saw that a gas line was bad, so my son replaced it. While he was under the car he replaced another line, then a wk or 2 later was running it. It barely stayed running. I thought it was the carb, ripped it apart, long story short, he put in a new gas tank new fuel lines fuel pump rebuilt carb and now when he started it, it only stays running if on gas pedal a little. I crawled under it today to look at the lines and noticed the line going to the sending unit was saturated w/gas. The car was shut off and I heard a humming noise in tank. I had my wife undo gas cap while i was underneath it and heard a gush of air. He obviously didn't change all lines, since the one at sending unit was not replaced. Would a leak at the line cause it not to idle right? Or is possible that he crossed the lines when changing them. He's 16 and works on it without me. I took his word for it when he says he changed everything, but starting to doubt it now that everything's been replaced and there's still a problem. Is there possibly vapor lock in the tank? This weekend when I get time, I'm gonna take the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump and put in a gallon gas tank to see if runs that way to rule out the back part of car. Also the fuel pump has 3 lines going to it, not sure what that extra line is for.
Anyone have any suggestions or advice?
Thanks for the help!
Sid
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

Drache

What about something simple like a fuel filter being clogged?

Problem with the carb, maybe the float?
Dart
Racing
Ass
Chasing
Hellion
Extraordinaire

Cooter

Sounds like the tank isn't venting, or the vent is clogged somehow...The Fuel pump will pull a vaccum inside the tank and that will definately cause a fuel starvation problem, but mostly under acceleration...Idle problem could be many things. First off, does it still have the old "SlobberJet" sitting on top of it? If so, I've found these to be as bad as the old TQ from Chrysler. If you get a good one, you better hang onto it. Some have good luck with 'em, but not I...

Has the idle screw been messed with? Does the carb have a vaccum leak around the base? Intake? Need more info...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

4cruzin

Try running it with the gas cap off.  What carb are you running? :shruggy:
Tomorrow is promised to NOBODY . . . .

adauto

Quote from: 4cruzin on March 30, 2011, 09:18:01 PM
Try running it with the gas cap off.  What carb are you running? :shruggy:
4C that was my first thought......  :yesnod:
Never too many! 70 Chally R/T Convert-70 GTX-68-69-74 Charger-68 Dart GTS

http://a-dauto.com/  http://www.facebook.com/pages/A-D-Truck-and-Auto-Parts/67427352555?ref=hl

sixpack_sid

I finally got it to stay running by adjusting the idle screw. The carb is a Rochester E4ME. Now it runs rough and it has a ticking noise on the drivers side of the engine. When you look at the dual exhaust coming out of the back, the pass. side sounds fine, but the dr. side has a sputter and a back fire. I know before when he got it, it was running rough and the timing was off. And when we try to set it on timing, the car shuts off. Does he have a bad motor? Or is it something else?
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

A383Wing

I would run a compression test...ya might find a weak cylinder on the drivers side...

check your power brake hose, make sure it's not leaking...also check your vacuum lines...

bet you find a weak cylinder

Cooter

Quote from: sixpack_sid on April 02, 2011, 06:49:30 PM
I finally got it to stay running by adjusting the idle screw. The carb is a Rochester E4ME. Now it runs rough and it has a ticking noise on the drivers side of the engine. When you look at the dual exhaust coming out of the back, the pass. side sounds fine, but the dr. side has a sputter and a back fire. I know before when he got it, it was running rough and the timing was off. And when we try to set it on timing, the car shuts off. Does he have a bad motor? Or is it something else?

In my experience, all Small block Chebbies "tick"...That E4ME carb should be what's commonly referred to as an "Electronic" QJet, assuming it's a 4 BBL...Junk IMO...Mixture control solenoids and such..I once had one that if I set the carb where the idle was good and ran great, the "Check Engine" light was on, if I set the carb to where the Check Engine light was off, it ran like sh*t..OH and BTW, that third line going to the fuel pump[ should be the vapor return line....There should be a supply, return (Fuel) and a Vapor return. Those year Cars were an Emissions nightmare...Have you checked to see if that old style "Bead type" Catalytic Converter is plugged, Assuming it's still under it?
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

66chargerkid

Just be happy your 16 year old has an interest in cars. Take this as a learning experience for him. I know if I hadn't started working on cars as early as I did I woulda been pretty screwed buying the cars I do. My mechanical ability at 19 has come in handy so much. Don't do everything for him, but give him a guiding hand. Thats what my dad does. Very few times has he physically fixed anything for me, but gives me the parts, advice etc. and any light he can shed on the problem but when it comes to fixing it, it is all on me. Use to really hate that. I wanted it fixed and working properly so I could continue on my way but have found the knowledge of making mistakes, doing it myself etc. to be much greater an asset.

b5blue

Pull the plugs and check the readings of condition. Ignition first then carb (say it 3 times.. :lol:) Check dist function, grab the rotor and see if A: it moves to advance and slides back smoothly and B: move it side to side to check bushings for wear. Plug wires, ground straps check for continuity. Did you check inside the carb for crud?   :scratchchin: 

BlueSS454

The carb needs to be rebuilt.  It's one of those EEC Q-jets.  The TPS switch in them are notorious for going bad causing these kind of problems.  I don't know what emission regulations are where you live but you can remove it and put a NON EEC Qjet on it and ditch the whole computer controlled engine management system.  You will have to change out the distributor too.  Also, when you set the timing on those engines in the original configuration, you have to unplug the timing advance control to the distributor unless it still has vacuum advance, in that case, that will have to be disconnected.
Clogged catalytic converters are also common...quick fix for that, hollow it out  :yesnod:.
Tom Rightler