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1973 Dodge Charger SE 318 Wiring Issues Coil/Ballast

Started by irish_in_ny, March 08, 2011, 04:00:26 PM

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irish_in_ny

Hello everyone I have posted questions about my issues with the coil overheating and the car cutting off on me while driving because the coil got too hot. Multiple wires coming from the ballast resister have been jointed or cut and a wire running from the coil has been cut and jointed with a wire running somewhere else and I think it is providing too much power for the coil. I got a tester and pretty much both the ballast and the coil are getting too much power. I am no use at wiring/electrical stuff and I was wondering if there is anyone around the New York 10704 area that knows enough about the wiring in these '73 Chargers could help me. I am really stuck on this. I will upload a couple pics of the wiring around the coil and ballast resister. Again, if anyone is in my area and could help me out I would be thankful.

irish_in_ny

Sorry, those two pictures are massively big, let me attach two normal size photos  :lol:

tomfed

look's like a bunch of hot wiring to get to run (coble jobbing)i do alot of wiring on these mopars my 72 RR drag car was like that when i got it. Here's what you do find a good engine harness and you won't torcher yourself.

Nacho-RT74

I think you found the reason for the coil overheating
the + lead of coil must be feeded from the brown wire coming from ballast

WHEN YOU ARE CRANKING this coil is being feeded by the ign switch bypassing the ballast ( thast the reason for the brown wire splice on ballast with the other wire coming from inside ) giving full 12 volts just for start up

THEN ON RUN POSITION, blue wire feeds the ballast, full 12 volts, the brown wire takes the power through ballast instead from inside and feeds the coil with the ballast power decay
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

the yellow wire you have hooked to the coil + lead and spliced to the blue wire must be actually spliced here:

( if you ask me, it's time to get a brown wire piece to elongate that one up to coil and make it on the right color ;) )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

irish_in_ny

Thanks for the comments guys! Nacho, great help as usual, thank you. All of the wiring has been done and changed over the years and was like that when I got it so it is hard to tell what is what. I see on year one they are selling this:
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?hid=112BL9992

Could that be helpful to me?

Nacho-RT74

no, thats just the conversion kit from breaker points ignition system to electronic ignition system, so is just PART of the engine harness, and not exactly the part you actually really need to "repair"
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

FLG

Talk to these guys

http://www.evanswiring.com/

They can make you a new harness for somewhere around 100$  :2thumbs:

irish_in_ny

Thanks FLG, I have ordered the engine harness from them today, spoke to Bob himself and gave me a price of $105 plus shipping. He said he is away on holiday til Sunday but will ship it out to me first thing Monday morning. Hopefully that will solve my issues and I will finally be able to drive my Charger further than 2-3 blocks without it cutting out from an overheated coil and terrible wiring.  :cheers:

irish_in_ny

Ok guys an update on the wiring harness. I received it, installed it, drove the car about 5 miles with no problem and it cut out on me when I entered the Bronx, and usually when the coil cools off it will start again but this time, nothing. When I checked the coil it was smoking hot. I tried multiple coils still the problem continued and I have to leave the car in the Bronx for the night (hope it's ok over there). Thankfully a true gent in a '72 Valiant noticed me and pushed my Charger off the exit ramp. I haven't a clue as to the reason for the problems. I corrected what I thought was wrong and I just don't know what could be the issue now. Is it possible there could be a problem in the ignition? This is starting to get very annoying  :brickwall:

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

irish_in_ny

Guys time for another Update. Sorry, I don't mean to keep raising this thread, I just want to say what I did and what is happening to it.

I bought a new alternator and it definitely makes the car run longer than it usually does and makes the coil not overheat as quickly but it still does get very hot (overheat) after a while to a level where it is nearly untouchable. Also I noticed that the engine plug wires get very hot too. There has to be too much power getting to the car somewhere but I cannot tell where, After a new engine harness and alternator I just don't know.

FLG

Maybe you have a bad voltage regulator?

I live in Williamsburg BK, your more than welcome to come by next week on wed or thursday and we can take a look at it. I have a spare voltage regulator as well.

:2thumbs:

irish_in_ny

Quote from: FLG on March 19, 2011, 03:27:10 PM
Maybe you have a bad voltage regulator?

I live in Williamsburg BK, your more than welcome to come by next week on wed or thursday and we can take a look at it. I have a spare voltage regulator as well.

:2thumbs:

Thank you FLG for the very kind offer. I don't think the car would make it though, it stopped and broke down going from Yonkers to the Bronx a few days ago. As a matter of fact, I found an extra new regulator that I had, installed it, and still the same issues. The car also likes to cut off when it is given gas from a take off position.

FLG

Well where are ya located? Could always take a ride.

Pm me if you want.

tomfed

Did you replace the coil?look's like you got an accel coil on it i've had problem's with them coil's.And the ballaster too should be replaced on it also i see you got a new harness smart. that other harness the way it was wired did some damage and you should replace the module box also new not used.that's the problem when somebody wire's up a car like that i run into this alot on these mopars.

FLG

I stopped by and adjusted a few things, fixed a few wires and we drove it for quite some time. Still needs to work out a few kinks like the tranny kickdown but shes running much better.

irish_in_ny

Quote from: FLG on March 25, 2011, 07:30:33 PM
I stopped by and adjusted a few things, fixed a few wires and we drove it for quite some time. Still needs to work out a few kinks like the tranny kickdown but shes running much better.

Cheers again FLG  :2thumbs:

I took it out driving 3 times since and the coil no longer burns up the way it used to but almost every time I push down the gas, the car either dies out or almost dies out. I'm thinking of doing what you said and get a 2 barrel carb and see how that goes.

FLG

Hmm she ran fine when I drove it  :shruggy:

Ill make a trip up there again and bring my timing light and well get it tuned in a bit better, don't mash the pedal down hard try easing into it.

A nice 4 bbl intake and carb would sure wake it up and assist with tunability.

irish_in_ny

Cheers FLG, that would be great, let me know whenever is good for you.

I took it out after you guys left and it ran fine but when I started it up later on that day (after it had cooled down) it kept wanting (it ended up stalling out twice just going around the block) to stall out even when the gas was applied slowly/lightly.


FLG

Make sure the choke isn't hanging up on ya.

Ill make another trip soon and well get it dialed in just right.

Zoidburg

Hey I had a similiar issue with my 73 and it was the ballast resistor.  It looks like a newer unit but i was wondering if you have checked the continuity with a volt meter to see if that may be your issue.  Best of Luck