What needs to be wired/connected, for initial engine break-in period?

[madmike]

'68 Charger, supposedly fresh 440 build, 4 speed, was a roller that I have basically re-assembled.  The engine and transmission are bolted in, the TTI headers will be installed in a week or two.  Under the hood, I have all of the components installed, as an example:  coil, ECU, starter relay, alternator, voltage regulator, horn relay, etc.  I have a brand new Year One engine harness and forward light harness installed, but not plugged into the terminal block on the fire wall.  My dashboard and dash wiring is not installed, nor the terminal block on the fire wall.

The engine was supoosedly rebuilt when I bought the car, and I have seen enough visual clues that make me believe that it is.  Trouble is, who built it and how well?  I'm not too far away from being ready to fire it up for the first time and running it's cam break-in period.  I'll probably use a remote starter switch to turn the engine over, and maybe a wire directly from the battery to get power to the coil.  I guess my question is:  Do I need to plug those wires at the terminal block into the dash harness or not, for an initail engine run?  I don't want to damage my voltage regulator or alternator, by sending juice somewhere (or run my battery down either).  I don't want to damage the coil or ECU by having something not hooked up either.

I don't want to wait on reassembling the whole dashboard and wiring inside the car, just to see if it runs.  Do you have any recommendations on how I should temporarily connect things, in order to find out if this thing runs or not?  I'd appreciate some helpful tips, thanks!
Mike

[FLG]

 If its fresh you don't want your tti headers installed for initial breakin, the heat is much higher and will discolor the header finish.

Id remove all wiring, put a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook up an rpm gauge, also water temp gauge. Use a switch of some kind (they sell momentary switches just for this purpose, there hand held I remember a thread with one posted) which you can use as an ignition switch.

Id just remove all the wiring for now and use a fully charged battery, or keep one hooked up to your battery charger but for breakin I can't see a fully charged battery not being adequate to keep the ignition system going. This will ensure you don't have any other headaches and you can concentrate on the engine and not worry about if you wired something wrong or not.

Btw are you using an aftermarket igniton like msd or stock mopar? I wrote the above assuming you were using an aftermarket ignition, if your using a stock ignition and will need to use the harness I would again only hook up what's required and not bother with accessories until the engine is sorted out.

[madmike]

So a fully charged battery should keep her running for 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm?  Should I leave all wires just disconnected from the alternator then?  My crank belt runs the alternator and water pump.  I guess I don't want the alternator building up a charge, and having no where to send it to, burning up the alternator.  My ignition system is a Mopar Performance item from Mancini Racing, basically a stock set-up with the orange box ECU, designed to replace the original points ignition that came on the car.

I do plan on hooking up mechanical gauges for oil pressure and water temperature.

[2Gunz]

If your not going to run an alt I would prolly keep the charger on it after its running. At like the 5 or 10 amp charge selection.

I have an electronic ignition in my car and it doesnt run smooth unless it has more then 13 volts or so on it.

Running the battery charger on it should give it that extra little voltage bump.