Engine Break-in. The Good, the Bad, and the potential problems.

[Ranman69SE]

After lurking for many years, I thought I would take a moment to share my recent experiences with everyone, even if it means embarrassing myself just a bit!

The Good:  I somehow found some motivation this winter, and have spent many hours in my unheated detached garage, working on my '69.  My main goal for the first of the year was to install the new engine and get it started.  Because my car is on rather tall jackstands (I actually cleaned, sanded, primed and painted the underside while lying on my back, but that's another story!) I decided to install the 493 from the bottom and pull it up into place with my hoist (I have no suspension or steering at this time, which made this a breeze).  I bolted everything in, installed my cast manifolds for the cam break-in, and hooked up all the electrical to a temporary panel with switches for ignition, starter and electric cooling fan.  I connected a hose to a small 1 gallon gas can for fuel, topped off the radiator with coolant, and then spun the oil pump priming rod one last time before installing the distributor.

Next, found TDC on #1, aligned the rotor with #1 on the distributor cap, and I'm good to go.  Check for spark with a spare plug and .........Nothing.  Double check all connections and try again.  Zilch.  Finally activate the proper brain cells and determine that my little "ignition On" switched is mislabeled (my fault) and "On" is actually "Off".  Okay, not too big a deal.  Switch the label, flip it on, crank and voila!  Spark.  Hoping to see fuel in the bowls of my ProForm 950 soon, continue to crank with pauses to keep my starter from getting too hot.  In retrospect, I should have filled the bowls prior to cranking, but I'm getting oil pressure so I'm thinking that my oiling system is getting fully primed while rotating the engine, which hopefully is a good thing.  Finally get fuel to the carb and now I'm getting excited because I know I'm close.  Prime the motor with gobs of gas and finally it roars to life!  There is no better sound in the world, and I love the smell of fresh engine paint curing with heat!  Set a fast idle, check oil pressure, check timing, watch the temp gauge, and start the clock.

The Bad:  The engine sounds good, the solid lifters are mildly ticking away (another sound I like a lot), oil pressure is up, but I notice that the fuel level in the floats is a little high, and I see gas dripping from the boosters in the primaries.  I obviously should adjust the floats but I can't remember which direction to turn the adjuster to lower the level, and at this point I'm actually wondering if I have excessive fuel pressure.  My exhaust pipes terminate right before the differential which is not ideal, but I have a box fan blowing out from under the car to the outside to keep the air moving. Still, it's getting a little thick inside the garage.  I'm watching the temp gauge, and will flip the switch on the fans when it reaches 185 degrees.  I'm 10 minutes into the break-in, when the engine drops rpm's, sputters and dies.  I'm thinking WTF!  I look into the fuel windows of the carb (nice feature, by the way) and they are dry.  My pickup tube into my little gas can did not reach all the way in, and it ran dry.  Crap!  I add more fuel, get the engine primed again and restart.  Okay back to where I was.  Continue the countdown, wondering how bad is it to interrupt a break-in session.  Hmmm......  Electric fans are on but temp is slowly climbing.  I'm using a special radiator fill device that is like a big funnel that mounts in place of the radiator cap, and it works great to purge the air out of the system.  I make sure that there is always coolant in it to replace any air that burps out.   Engine is running erratically and oil pressure is bouncing around a little bit.  My eyes are burning and this whole experience is becoming less fun.  Temperature continues to climb, approaching 220, but I'm really close to the end of the session, so I press on. 

I'm getting a good buzz off the fumes by this point, but my little brain is asking "hey, doesn't water boil at 212?  I'm at 220 and it dawns on me that I don't have a radiator cap on to hold pressure and suppress the boil.  The revelation hits just as the timer says "finish", which perfectly coincided with the geyser that shot out from my fancy funnel purging device.  I flip the switch to "off", killing the engine, and then proceed to dance.  Not a dance of elation, mind you, but one of getting splattered by scalding hot antifreeze which is showering me and my beautifully detailed new motor:flame:

The Potential Problems:  Okay, I get everything mopped up, then step outside for some fresh air and evaluate my situation.  Instead of feeling really good, I'm feeling like an idiot for not thinking clearly and having a good plan from the start.  I let the engine run out of gas during break-in, my carb was not adjusted properly (in addition to the incorrect float level, I had also turned the idle adjust screws out 1 1/2 turns to start (all four of them) which was way too much and only added to my excessive richness), and I let it overheat.      So I'm asking myself:

1.  Did I mess up the cam break-in by interrupting the session? 
2.  Did my overly rich mixture wash down my cylinder walls and prevent my rings from seating properly?
3.  Did I do any damage when it overheated? 

I know I can answer these questions with a dial indicator and a compression gauge.  I've changed the oil, installed the headers, adjusted the carb (I love that thing, and I haven't even had it on the road yet!) and have run the engine since and it appears okay and sounds strong.  I have yet to do any testing but one thing that concerns me a little is I'm seeing a little blow-by coming out of the breathers on the valve covers.  I'm not running a PVC so perhaps this is normal for a non-ventilated fresh motor (or my rings are not seated).  How soon can one expect the rings to get seated?  I know it probably varies, but am I hosed if I washed down the cylinders??    I really don't want to tear into this engine again, I don't have the patience that Per does! (see thread about his GTX engine).

On a side note, my brand new TTI headers are discoloring in a few spots, so now I'm wondering if I'm too lean??  I welcome any thoughts and opinions (paging Ron!).

Randy

[BigBlockSam]

great story  i think your ok. did you find any fuel in the oil? 

[Ranman69SE]

No Sam, the oil didn't look or smell abnormal.  What is the best way to check for fuel in the oil?  The flaming dipstick test?  

[BigBlockSam]

i just smell it and look at it . that's a real good sign 

[firefighter3931]

Hi Randy 

Sounds like you had a few hiccups during the break-in but nothing to be overly concerned about. New motors will run hot until they loosen up a bit. You should make sure the float level is properly set then start tuning the advance curve. I can't remember what cam you're using but whaetevr it is it'll want more idle advance so you'll have to bump up the base timing and possible shorten the mechanical advance 

Did you install baffles in the valvecovers ? In your pic it's showing oil caps instead of breathers ? Some oil misting is normal under high speed conditions. 

If you ran the cam at 2000+ for 20 minutes or more it should be fine as long as you used the proper additive. Make sure you add some additive to the fresh oil unless you're using a high zinc oil. 

The rings might not be fully seated but they'll be close. Loading the motor makes them seat faster. 

I would :

-check lash
-adjust base timing and verify the total
-set the float levels
-install rad cap
-use your vacuum guage and adjust the idle mixture/idle speed after the timing curve is sorted out

If you can give me a detailed engine breakdown with compression/cam specs and i'll have a look at them.



Ron



Ps. As Sam said, smell the oil and look for signs of dilution if you suspect contamination.

[Ranman69SE]

Thanks Ron, 
       My cam is actually a Comp Cams custom grind solid lifter based on your recommendation many moons ago.....
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,35228.msg387156.html#msg387156
(I can't believe I misspelled "Holley" in that thread )

  Here are the specs:
282*/290* advertised duration
244*/252* @ .050 valve lift
.521/.542 lift
112* lsa

I'm using Howards EDM solid lifters, and am running the Comp Cams break in oil, both initially and for the first oil change.  I'm hoping that the combo of the two eliminated any chance of lobe failure.  Comp Cams wanted me to remove a valve spring for break-in, but Edelbrocks only use a single spring.
I believe my compression is 10.5 to 1.  (84cc Eddy heads, 12cc dish piston, zero deck).  Yes, I have baffles in the valve covers, and I replaced the caps with breathers after installing the engine (didn't want to risk breaking one off).  Performer RPM intake (I know the SD is better, but I honestly did not want to have to look at that stupid EGR provision on that manifold.)

My initial timing is right around 20 degrees, but climbs beyond my 35 degree target with revs.  I will need to pull the distributor and install the correct advance limiter.  No vacuum advance.

One reason that my temp got a little high, was that I had laid a cloth over my recently painted radiator support to protect it, which unfortunately dropped down during break-in and restricted air flow
I'm disappointed in myself for not remembering that the last time I broke in a cam, I had a spray bottle full of water on hand, and would occasionally mist the radiator when the temp got high.  It's amazing how well it works, and it steam-cleans your engine at the same time!

Oh, and can you please confirm that the proper float level is when the fuel is in the center of the window (and not at the bottom like a Holley)??  As I get closer to the proper tune, I must say that the excitement is building.  The idle is lopey but not too bad, and throttle response is most impressive. 

I know you may be disappointed to hear this but I went with FlowBastards for mufflers!  I'm sorry but I think they sound great, especially at idle!  I'm running Dynomax welded mufflers on my Goat, and they are okay and the car performs well, but I wanted the Charger to sound different.
I'm looking forward to getting some Hell's Angel wannabe on his POS unmuffled Harley behind me, I'm going to give him or her a 3 in. double-barrelled dose of Super 44, 8 Liter Mopar Thunder.  I'll finish it off with a Radial T/A smoke show when the light turns green

Here are my rocker arms, also your recommendation!

[firefighter3931]

Ok, it's all starting to come back ! 

The XS282S solid on a 112* LSA with an RPM intake manifold will make for a super sharp throttle response and Killer Torque ! The stock Eddy springs are fine for the breakin and with the EDM lifters you're golden. I like those Comp Pro-Magnum rockers with flat tappet cam spring pressures. The roller to valvestem sweep pattern is allways perfect with those rockers and E-heads. 

The base timing is good but you'll have to limit the mechanical to 15-16* to dial in the total. The newer MP distributors have an adjustable advance mechanism. There are torx screws that need to be loosened off so you can move the "stops" which will limit the mech advance.

Not sure what plugs you're using but i like the NGK BCPR6ES with E-heads and pump gas compression.

Once you get that dialed in throw a vacuum guage on the carb and ajust the 4 corner idle. Keep leaning it out until the vacuum starts to drop off. The screws sould be no more than 1-1.5 turns out and they should all be equal. The fuel level should be 1/2 way up the site glass. 

I'll forgive ya on the FlowBastards....this isn't an all out race build so they won't hurt that much. Poor Harley guy won't know what hit him when you drop the hammer 

Let us know how the tuning turns out. 



Ron

[redmist]

Using the OP's post for a question. I am going to be running my engine in with an XS 282S camshaft, and stock E-heads (to include the E-springs)  From what I read above, I don't need to take the little inner spring out for break in??

Nice build man!!

[firefighter3931]

Using the OP's post for a question. I am going to be running my engine in with an XS 282S camshaft, and stock E-heads (to include the E-springs)  From what I read above, I don't need to take the little inner spring out for break in??

Nice build man!!

The "stock" E-head springs are a single spring with a dampner so there's no inner spring to remove 

No worries with the RPM springs, just use good oil with a break-in additive and follow normal procedure. Use a quality lube afterwards (Brad Penn 20/50) 


Ron

[redmist]

Perfect!!! Just saved me a bunch of time and thought.   

[Mick70RR]

I use the same carb and set the float level just below the middle of the sight glass on the primary but set it a little lower on the secondary to stop fuel sloshing when I brake. I have never needed to unscrew the mixture screws more than 3/4 of a turn from seated. All I have done to the carb is open up the IFR's from 0.036" to 0.038" to get rid of a lean spot when cruising on a very light throttle.

[Ranman69SE]

Mick, I agree.  Around 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn on each idle adjust screw seems to give me the best idle.  My initial 1 1/2 turn was too much!
I will fine tune with a vac. gauge just as soon as my wife quits giving me chores to do........

[Kern Dog]

I was a little concerned when I read about you cranking on the motor to fill the carburetor. All it takes is 4 or 5 revolutions of the motor to wipe the lube from the cam and to begin the metal to metal wear. I hope that this didnt lead to cam failure.
I'm not your papa and I cannot presume to know more than you, so I will just tell you what I know. You would do yourself a favor to fill the carb some other way, either by adding gas into the vent tube or by pressurizing the fuel system. I put a rubber grommet against the fuel filler neck and blow compressed air into the tank through a small hole.  It takes a few seconds and a few attempts, but as long as all your clamps and seals are tight, it works.
An easy way to test for spark is to pull the distributor. Take a plug wire off of the motor and install a spare plug in the wire. Rotate the distributor shaft and watch the plug for spark.
Finally, an overly rich condition is terrible for the rings. The excessive fuel washes away the oil on the cylinders and rapid ring wear will occur. Once this begins, there isnt much you can do. At that point, its time to pull the motor to deglaze the cylinders and put in new rings.
I am not trying to piss on your birthday cake. I only write this because I JUST went through a 493 in my Charger that had worn out/damaged rings at 3000 miles from some of the things that you described. Hopefully you will  have better luck than I did.