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Headlight Doors and pivots.

Started by montana bird, March 15, 2011, 11:29:19 PM

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montana bird

Hi everybody I bought my headlight buckets from Ronnie Kniffley in ky. What a nice guy and his product looks really good. He told me that he made the buckets and then sold them to Gene Gregory and Rick. Then Rick makes the pivots and sells them to gen gregory. So any way I bought Ronnies buckets. The pivots thru Gene as they were cheaper. The headlight doors Thru Dayclona.  My question is I am trying to put the pivots in the headlight doors and they are really snug. The rivet holes in the headlight area do not all line up. 2 out of 3 on each side. So somebodies part is off.  Now the sides of the pivots were the pivot shafts are there are 2 holes for the rivets. In the doors and pivots the are not drilled the same length. I don't know who is wrong and who is correct. How are you guys fitting these parts? I am not afraid of drilling, but there is going to be some tweaking on the 3 tabs in the center of the pivots. How are you guys figuring the angle of the pivot to the lids. If they are wrong will a guy be able to adjust them out in the end. I know there is allot of people on here building there own pivots. I don't have anybody here in Mt to look at the lids and pivots.  Not really impressed with the pivots The pivot shafts are not all welded in true with the brackets they are pointing all over the place. Thanks Nathan :scratchchin:

DAY CLONA

I can assure you Nathan that the mounting holes I predrill in the Fiberglass outer doors are from were the original rivets were removed on the original parts moulded from, the hole/rivet indentations are in the mold, which never changes, the pivot should fit snuggly into the fiberglass door, you may need to smoothen some of the glass inside to do this,....the only critical attachment points are those 2 rivets on each side of headlite frame/pivot/fiberglass door to align the pivot properly inside the fiberglass door

DAY CLONA

Nathan,...confirm the "clocking" of each pivot's 3 tab orintation in the headlite "bowl" area,....I've found in the past some of Erik N. pivot tabs are off in this area, your pivots should look like the pic below, remember there is no left or right to a pivot until it becomes attached to a fiberglass door, the fiberglass door determines were the bulb cup adjusters are orintated, as the pivot frames are identical L/R,....basically only one pivot frame design/shape is used for both sides, they should not be a "mirror" image of each other

montana bird

Thank you Dayclona I figured it was the pivots that were off but i was not sure.  Does any body have some pictures from back and side view of these mounted up.

nascarxx29

Maybe on here Mopar Johns daytona nose restoration http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64519.msg792575/topicseen.html#msg792575

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64519.550.html Headlight bucket and pivot illustrations
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64519.525.html
Or on a certain page of Hemi Geno Daytona you find the picture you need to reference from
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

DAY CLONA

Nathan, regarding the side holes on the pivot frames, and their location, I have no pics avaliable, but I can tell what the dimensions are: measuring from the top of the pivot frame, down along the side, the first hole (center) will be 1.800 inches, the distance to the next lower hole (center), measured again from the top of the pivot frame is 3.400 inches, the center dimension of the holes measured from the face of the pivot to hole center is .350,....these dimensions are for all 4 sides, don't be concerned with the 6 location holes where the lite-bulb cups go, they don't matter, alter if needed, the ones of importance are the holes located on the side of the pivot, as they dictate the location/angle that the 2 assys are joined,......always do a test mock-up of any pcs, even factory pcs, you'll know if the assy is correct when you assemble the pivot/fiberglass door and install it in a bucket and the pivot frame cut-out area between the bulb cups, rests on the bottom of the raised projection area of the bucket (area where the canister bolts too), and the top of the fiberglass door sits flush or slightly below the top edge of the light bucket,.....assembling wingcar nosecone light buckets can be challenging at times, but it's allways best to mock up all your pcs, before finish painting them, even the assembly of factory/NOS pcs require "tuning",...there's no such thing as "bolt-on", when talking about nosecone assys



Just one more note: the lower SIDE hole (bottom/2nd) located along the side of the pivot, should be on the same plane (180 degrees) as the main pivot shaft (center), in otherwords, you should be able to "draw a straight line" between the 2


Mike

montana bird

Thank you everybody. You guys are great. :2thumbs: I appreciate all the info. You guys are what makes the hobby great. The cars are just the glue that holds it all together. :cheers: Now when I get done watching my son I will sneek into the garage and get it all worked out. Thanks again Nathan.