Ammeter versus Voltmeter - what to do?

[BananaDan]

I'm sending my cluster out to get rebuilt (70 Charger R/T, Rallye Dash, Tic-Toch-Tach).  I hear about a 50/50 split between people having their ammeter rebuilt and kept, versus swapping it out for a voltmeter.  Any pluses or minuses that can help me decide which to do?  What have you guys done when you had your clusters redone, and how/why did you make that decision?

Dan

[FLG]

If you plan on running stock items, and want a stock look, with new wiring a amp meter would be fine.

If you plan on running aftermarket items such as, radio, electric fans..ect your better off with a volt meter because you will stress the amp meter too much as its not designed for it.

IMO id go with a volt meter anyways, simply because its the safest out of the two. Amp meters require ALL the cars electronics run though it in order to get a true amp reading, volt meter simply needs a ground and a hot and no real amperage is flowing though it.

[BananaDan]

I'll only be running stock equipment, with the possibility of a regutted stock AM-Radio with those 45-wall per channel upgrades done to it.  No amps, no subs, no electric fans etc.

Dan

[BananaDan]

I forgot to mention, my mechanic replaced my alternator with a modern OEM-equivalent replacement (ACDelco/Napa type part).  I don't know it's amperage output, but it is likely more than the stock amount.  For some reason, either 45A or 60A stick in my head.  Will I have an issue with an ammeter in my cluster with this alternator?  Can the alternator be strengthened?  Due to this upgrade, would this point me in the direction of going with a voltmeter?  I'd prefer to stay ammeter if I can, but don't want to risk a safety concern if my new alt will put me in the danger zone.

Dan

[Rolling_Thunder]

I would personally use a voltmeter...    but that's me and I dont care much about originality...      the volt meter lets you know voltage...   an ammeter just shows charge or discharge...    so I am just more used to volt meters...       

[BananaDan]

Just confirmed with my mechanic, it's a 60A alternator.

Dan

[Nacho-RT74]

as far you set correctly the power source to extra acc and equipment on to the alt side, keeping clean and tight contacts, nice power  coming from alt at low RPMs will be fine with ammeter.

Mandatory, add some wiring through firewall to help to the load going throught bulkhead

[BananaDan]

You're saying you recommend I pull the ammeter wires out of the bulkhead and run them through the firewall on dedicated wires to the ammeter?  Is that because she's 60A, or because of the historical issues with Mopar connectors burning up behind the dash?

Keep in mind, if it matters, I have completely replaced all wiring on my car with new repro harnesses.  YearOne (dash and rear lights), Bill Evans for everything else.

Dan

[Nacho-RT74]

no need to remove, run parallel and will be done

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

remove just if they were already damaged, but on a new or perfect installation, parallel work PERFECT.

One a damaged installation NEEDING A COMPLETE REDONE run 8 gauge is recomended, but running parallel to the stock, 10 will be FAIRLY enough... even using 12 on parallel you would have 2 12 running. If you do 2 12 is more less what a 8 gauge has in total. But if you want even more "headroom", 10 is fine.

[BananaDan]

I read that thread.  Wow, great information.  So the reason for these parallel lines is to split the amperage load between the alt leg and batt leg from one wire to two, thereby cutting the potential heat load in half on each wire preventing meltdowns?

Dan

[Nacho-RT74]

yes.

and with everything CORRECTLY sourced from alt side, will make on a higher output alt than factory did ammeter barelly sensing the power ( with engine running ) coming from batt, so, discharging.

With 60 or more amps alt, won't get long and high peaks to recharge the batt from alt when throttling like 40 or 50 amps factory did, or at least will get LESS SIGNIFICANT peaks.

Then the double wire will save the "pressure" ( load ) required by the car from runing throug the small "pipe" ( wire gauge )... plus the resitence offered by terminals by default, with maybe added loosen, dirty or rusted terminals.

The ammeter has a small resistence by default, and that makes it to work something like a valve between both sides.

with the added wires You can even source everything from ammeter stud ( black side as stated ) instead run a wire up to engine bay, what you are actually already making, but correctly

I have seen lot of times 3, 4 or 5 extra wires hooked to batt to feed accesories inside the car, when no need for that

I already did it. Halogen headlamps relays are inside the cab ( hidden on back of kick panel ) and the main source coming from amm stud once wires are duplicated

I in fact have 6 relays hooked there ( 2 headlights, 1 heater speed, 3 AC speeds ), true that never will be working more than three, even just two feeding the load really.

There are many ways to make it, but without the knowledgement you will be tied to what everybody makes without know why. With the knowledgement, your imagination ( and the phisical ) is your limit

[BananaDan]

Thanks Nacho, great info.  I think I'll do this modification.  I was looking at my alternator tonight, and I have two plastic female spade connectors from the harness that connect to male spade connectors on the alternator, and there's a post with a thicker gauge wire connected.  The post is what I want to use, right?

Also, so this setup mitigates the risk of burning up the the bulkhead connector.  However, this does nothing to reduce the chance of the ever-so-often burnt up ignition switch harness to dash harness white plug connectors, right?

Dan

[Nacho-RT74]

yes, the post, prongs are to wires coming form ign and regulator ( blue, and green )

will save the ign switch plug ? not directly although will help, getting a better average power fluid, however, relays will do. If you use regulary the Heater or A/C mostly sure thats the reason why melted. Normally this is the reason to melt that plug. BLOWER is the higher consumption device in the car, then the wipers.

If you don't use the car as driver you don't have to worry about. Normally this fail came out form cars ABUSED or with a short somewhere. On a regular use and not abuse, won't appear

[BananaDan]

Thanks.  No A/C for me, and I don't drive her in the winter so no heat really ever used.  I guess I'm good to go.

Thanks Nacho, the electric guru!



Dan