100 amp Alt. Question

[68charger440R/T]

Hey guy i just bought a 100 amp alt and was wondering what wiring needs to be done or if i can hook it up to the stock wiring. Its a 68 318 car btw.
Its a internally regulated tuff stuff alt.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7509RESP/

Thanks

[2Gunz]

The wiring Needs to be upgraded.

Myself, Nacho and others have covered this in detail in other posts.

[Brass]

I'm about ready to purchase this alternator too.  I've searched the threads and I'd still like a little confirmation before I pull the trigger on it.

I'm going to be doing Nacho's parallel wiring upgrade but is there anything else that should be done?

Also, I'm told that this alternator makes 45 amps at idle – or at about 900 engine RPM.  Is this enough?  I'm severly sick of the dreaded discharge blues.  Currently, my 78 amp alternator doesn't make enough juice at idle to run the turn signals with the headlights on.  (Headlights also flash when I depress the brake.)  I'm not even using accessories.

Any input from someone using this alternator would also be appreciated.

Thanks so much.

[Nacho-RT74]

45 amps is fairly enough on a fairly stock car. JUST BEING just being a regulate AC/heater user will show you some SMAAALL discharge readings maybe at nights and brakes pressed geared.

the blower is the BIGGER POWER CONSUMPTION device on cars.

ALL CARS ACTUALLY get some discharge at that point, just that driver barelly will notice due they don't have ammeters and in most cases not even voltimeter, just the idiot light what only says if alt is working or not, but not showing the juice coming out from it or from the batt

[Nacho-RT74]

Its a internally regulated tuff stuff alt.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7509RESP/

actually they are not INTERNALLY regulated, they are REALLY a MOUNTED ON regulator. Like this:

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnod7018.aspx

they are being turned on by the alternator spin by the stator electrical sense, instead from the key and mounted on firewall alternator, thats why the become on "one wire" alternators, and tipically called INTERNALLY regulated, but they are not INTERNALLY regulated into GM therms

[Brass]

I understand - but they also appear to be a pretty easy, viable solution to the discharge problem.  (If not the most economical one - yet still cheaper than the PowerMaster alternators.)   While my current alternator makes good amps, I don't think its excited until the engine is making a lot more RPM's over idle.

To run a Tuff Stuff alternator, would we need to do anything other than your parallel wiring upgrade?  Should anything else be done to help handle the current?

Thanks, Nacho!

[Nacho-RT74]

nothing more really

I'm looking forward on get one TuffStuff alt too, sometime in the future. 100 amps but with stock regulator ( three wires )

I call it PARALLEL wire just because we already have the stock existant wire into the harnesses and bulkhead, but ACTUALLY on more than 60 amps alts MaMopar symply didn't get the power wire into bulkhead and all the load did run by just A THICKER wire but out of the bulkhead. However having already the stock main wire running inside the harness tape UP TO THE BULKHEAD, there is not reason why remove it so just add the parallel one will be doing the same job

[Brass]

Which alternator are you thinking of getting, Nacho?  Could the one you're getting be used with a Wells VR-706 regulator?  I'm wondering why you don't seem to prefer the one-wire alternators...?

[Nacho-RT74]

because I want to keep stock look, thats all.

to add one more thing. I'm overseas. Stock pieces are all around. That "mounted on" reg is not a piece available down here in Venezuela to replace in case of fail

I have electronic reg ( 70s alts setup ) my reg is this: