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72 Charger - Long Awaited Update...

Started by 72Charger-SE, March 12, 2011, 09:38:39 PM

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72Charger-SE

Photo of the car off the rotisserie...  test fit the fenders and hood...  some adjustments required but ok for the most part!!

Yep... I am EXCITED!!  According to the Fender...  It's got a HEMI....   I didn't even know!!!  :) :lol:

72Charger-SE

Aligned the fenders and doors...  still a bit of work to do on the latch area gap on the driver's side...

72Charger-SE

Took a couple photos of the car while working on my 06 Dodge truck (the driver's side wheel hub/bearing had to be replaced).

I really like the 'rake' and 'seeing the 'red under the car (suspension & calipers)...   Looking forward to continuing with the body work...

72Charger-SE

Lower look different angle...

72Charger-SE

Fiberglass filler & sanding...  and sanding... and... sanding...    :2thumbs:  All about progress!! 

72Charger-SE

I had a single sheet of 18ga sheet metal left so...   Here are a couple photos of the hood scoop I added this weekend.  I still need to finish up the fiberglass.  I am waiting on a friend to assist as I have no idea what I am doing...

ACUDANUT

Is fiberglass better than bondo ? I thought you use fiberglass on plastic bodies ?

72Charger-SE

Fiberglass to shape the contours and the body filler to smooth it out.   Or at least that is what I am doing.  I am not sure if it is the right way but it made sense to me.   We wil see. 

71_Charger_R/T

Yes,  fiberglass is stronger because of the longer strands of glass within the resin.  You will probably still end up with a crack in the future as hoods are very prone to flexing, twisting and bouncing with all the opening and closing. Just the very nature of their size (especially this hood) and distance spanned between anchor points causes them to bounce and flex while driving down the road. Your best bet is to weld the whole contact perimeter of the scoop. Warpage when welding though, is a big concern on a long flat panel like this. Especially one you are always looking out over.  If you rely on mostly fiberglass with some tack welds or rivets to hold it on, It WILL crack!  Take your time and weld a short little stitch and cool it, then go to the other side, do a short stitch, cool and then back to other side and so on/so forth until the base is like a continuous weld. This will minimize the warpage and give the hood the most strength to give you the best chance of keeping bondo and glass from cracking. :Twocents:

72Charger-SE

Here are a couple photos of the 'sanding & paint booth we 'stapled up tonight'.  :)  Thanks to my youngest son, Nathan!  :2thumbs:

cudaken


I could do with out the scoop, but it is not my Charger. Now a power bulge hood?  :2thumbs: Either way you have came a long way.

          Cuda Ken
I am back

72Charger-SE

Quote from: cudaken on April 30, 2014, 08:05:17 AM

I could do with out the scoop, but it is not my Charger. Now a power bulge hood?  :2thumbs: Either way you have came a long way.

          Cuda Ken

I would agree that a power bulge hood would be awesome...  Maybe I'll get one in the future when funds permit.  I didn't like the flat hood look so I decided to add a hood scoop.  Once I had it fab'd I decided to make it 'functional'...  so that is what I am at now...  I can see having two hoods in the future... :)


72Charger-SE

Hood Hinges from 4 Door 72 Coronet - Mine were 'sprung' and would not 'close properly'...

Also filled the remaining 'vinyl top trim' holes as I am not putting a vinyl top back on...



72Charger-SE

As recommended by several users here I did a full weld on my hood scoop so as to limit cracking of the filler in the future.  I also decided to forgo the upside down V and make it a Capital M for Mopar...  I plan to add a green LED light behind the M at some point... 


72Charger-SE

Capital M for support...   I did not have a small enough tip for the 90 air tool so I could not grind down the welds yet...  More to come on this...

72Charger-SE

Body work on passenger side continues...   a little filler needed for a couple dings and 'low spots'...

Short video of new upper door hinges added... Now the door closes as expected without having to lift it into place.   

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202826179113450&set=vb.1170388573&type=2&theater



72Charger-SE

So...  I thought I was done with the welder...   I was wrong...   had to do some 'spot' repairs on the deck lid....  NOW we can move onto the rest of the body work and eventual primer & paint... 

72Charger-SE

More...

72Charger-SE

Need to do a bit more grinding to smooth out the edges...   almost done...

72Charger-SE

Photos of the new 1 1/4" front sway bar in the box...  and installed...

I have the rear bar as well but did not have time to install that tonight... maybe this week sometime?

chargd72


          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

72Charger-SE


chargd72

Did the front sway bolt right up to those control arms?  Or did you have to fab the sway link mount?

          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

72Charger-SE

It bolted directly to the new control arms.  No fabrication needed.
:2thumbs: