Upgraded my stereo...Need stronger alternator

[RECHRGD]

What would be a direct replacement from a stock alternator (single field) on a '68 W/440?  Jegs shows a 75 amp unit in their catalog for "early mopar" but very little info.  The stereo is not a ground shaker by any means, buy does have a small amplifier and I added a couple of door speakers.  Maybe 100 watt max. output.  Without the engine running (but battery hooked to a charger) the amp meter gets dragged down pretty good when I crank up the volume.  Thanks Bob

[Nacho-RT74]

any alt able to give you around 45 amps idiling will be a great upgrade. Mostly of newer STOCK replacements alt will be able to give you better juice ( 78 amps ). If you wanta more less stock look on the cheap, those will be fine. You can get from regular parts dealers in $50 rate. They are a little bit wider though, around couple of milimeters, Not a big problem but something to think about specially with block clearence on rear, maybe requiring a longer belt


stock factory alts from 60s barelly gets 25-28 amps, MAYBE 30 amps

smaller pulley as posible will help you A LOT. I have read aparently there are smaller single groove ( 2.6" ) than double groove ( 2.75" ), so if your car is not an AC,  you can get better juice with low RPMs from them ( STUPID, don't you think ?, it should be oposite I think. )

Of course lost of HiPo options like StuffTuff, Powermasters, DBelectric, for those in stock look, over $100 rate

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0112_electronic_voltage_regulator_and_alternator/index.html

actually you don't NEED to upgrade for the lates VR2 reg. You can choose ground one of the brushes and keep your actual mechanical reg OR upgrade for elec reg on same old mech reg chassis, and won't require to mess with wiring changes.

I think that article talks about that

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Nacho!  Good link too.

[Nacho-RT74]

Its on your own what do you want to choose... stock lates or HiPo pieces. I have allways wished a Tuff Stuff alt, but they are out of my pocket at this moment. But using a stock lates 78s amps on an A/C car has been really quite enough, altough still wishing more living on a heavy transit city, lot of times brakes pedal pressed and runing AC on a tropical country. Not quite required more if my city was a light transit

WIRING UPGRADE is mandatory

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

and batt/alt balance is quite important too

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62772.0.html

[RECHRGD]

Just ordered from Mancini Racing.  Part #PWM175191 rated at 80amp.  45amp at idle..60amp at 3500rpm..75amp at 5500rpm.  I have the large (group 27?) battery.  I'll see what it's rated at.  Thanks,  Bob

[Nacho-RT74]

it looks thats "one wire" ?

if so, then you won't need to take care the stock regulator or related wires, since thats a MOUNTED ON reg. Its a regulator mounted on housing and brushes already wired. Just need to hook the stud wire.

You can hide the green wire to bruss and both green and blue regulator wires down the tape. Previous isolation of blue wire arriving to your actual regulator ( thats ign key source )

( remember, will require upgrade wiring up to amm, back and forth )

You'll be fine with the actual batt if you were already using it with the stock alt.

Note that I rate the batts by TOTAL RESERVE AMPS because is how its actually rated doen here in Vzla... I think you in USA actually show the batt specs by CRANKING amps

[RECHRGD]

According to Mancini, it utilizes the stock regulator on the firewall.  But if not, I guess I can make the changes you refer to.  Being a '68, I have an existing one wire system.  I'm thinking of just running a wire directly from the battery (fused) to feed the stereo.  There's no ACC position to get in the way of just feeding it directly and bi-passing the ammeter all-together.  Bob

[Nacho-RT74]

actually I made the PN search ( Part #PWM175191 ) and states one wire what it means not external reg, what actually means uses a mounted on reg, although commonly called internal reg ( what is not true and even imposible on a Mopar alt )

will know when you get and I'll let you know what to do ( if you really want and need ).

BTW you existing alt is two wires, the main to the stud and the one to the brush coming from reg. The one wire setup is just the main to the stud.

Feed from alt side doesn't really mean from acc source, just getting the source from alt side, when amm present, but if you will bypass, doesn't really matters anyway.

[RECHRGD]

Well it arrived and it does have the regulator attached to it.  Mancini was helpful and it's sending out the correct unit today (#17519).  The manufacturer did not recommend taking off the regulator and grounding one field wire.  There is a grey wire from the windings to the regulator that they said would cause me some grief, so I'm just going to get the right one and be done with it.  Mancini is going to change their ad.  The reference to OM wiring and external regulator, they agreed, is misleading at best.   Bob