Battery Won't Charge

[holanae]

I just swapped out to a FireCore distributor
17 degrees at idle
35 degrees total

Car really woke up on the lower end just like I was hoping.

Problem:

I have a battery charging issue.  Prior to the swap I never had this issue.  Had to get a jump and bring it back home after driving around for about 45 minutes.  Got it jumped, drove it about 5 miles home, and went to start it and battery wouldn't even click the starter.  I charged the battery and it turns right over and drove it around the block.  Parked it and started it a few more times. 

I checked the voltage coming out of the alternator and it was supplying right under 12 volts (11.7vdc).  The amp meter on the dash really isn't reading much of anything.  I don't think it's the battery, I think the alternator isn't charging.  Your thoughts?  Will a alternator still supply voltage even if it isn't producing good current to charge the battery?

I disconnected the battery before I did anything to the car.

[303 Mopar]

How old is your battery?  Did you change any changes to your wiring? If so check for a ground issue.

[holanae]

Two years on battery.  Didnt mess with anything on the charging circuit. The amp gauge reads directly from the alternator i thought. If its not reading anything then that tells me that the alternator isnt putting out amps. I am just curious that there is something in the ignition circuit that ties back into the charging circuit somehow.

[Gold Rush]

Like any alternator based charging circuit, the battery can be totally removed once the engine is running.   12 volts is NOT enough to charge the battery. 

If your car regulator circuit is like my '74 the "RUN" voltage from the ignition switch is fed to the ballast resistor then also fed to the voltage regulator.  You might want to investigate that..

Good Luck

[Nacho-RT74]

if alt is not charging your ammeter should be pointing out to Discharge side. If not, something into the line of the charging system is "broken" ( wire, terminal )

Check field wires for voltage between then... with key in RUN you shoulkd get 11-12 volts between green and  blue wires. If single field, then 11-12 volts between green and chassis

making an ohm test between alt fields/brushes, it should be reading around 5-8 ohms and completelly isolated from chassis if dual field.  If single field, something similar but this time it gets reading with chassis.

You can full field the alt brushes. If dual field, one of them to chassis the other one to  12 volts source ( it can be the same alt post ). If single field, the only prong to 12 volts ( alt post ).... or straight to batt in both cases

[Nacho-RT74]

if alt is not charging your ammeter should be pointing out to Discharge side. If not, something into the line of the charging system is "broken" ( wire, terminal )

althought thinking better, if alt is not charging and you get 12 volts at alt post, you are reading actually batt there so the line is complete, althought unkown conditions. Voltage is able to pass throught a hair, while amperage which is what actually charges and makes things work needs the propper path to the load in good conditions

[holanae]

Started car, pulled the positive lead from the battery, and car died.  Most likely bad alternator.  Probably burned up while trying to find tdc. Would expect the alternator to be more rugged than that.  Will swap out and hope all is well.

[holanae]

Nevermind, i fixed it.  Voltage regulator was disconnected and i didn't see it. Connector came loose when I was wiring the electronic ecu.

[Nacho-RT74]

aren't great those easy fixes ? LOL

[Gold Rush]

+++

That is GREAT!!!!