Update: one-man brake bleeder kit - mission accomplished

[hemi68charger]

Hey gang..
I found this yesterday when I picked up my new master cylinder. Has anyone used one of these? I was going to gravity bleed the brakes, but then I saw this. What's anyone's experience with this or similar kit? I don't have any of my car buddies nearby to help with this before the weekend, so I'm on my own. I wanted to get this done tonight. I have already bench-bled the master cylinder.

[Domino]

I got a hand pump kit from autozone (or one of those places).  I've used it on trailer, ATV and car brakes, and even to pull PS fluid out of the reservoir before removal to avoid a mess....definately worth having on hand.  

For brakes, just keep the master cylinder topped off or you'll pull air into the lines and have to start over.  Also, there's a proper order to follow based on line length.

[68 RT]

I have one just like that. I have used it more than I ever thought I would, it works great for me. The only down side is the small size of the container. But it is no big deal. Just have to empty it more. 

[Troy]

I have that exact model as well and it has always seemed to work fine. I now have a Mity Vac though and it works even better so I switched.

Troy

[hemi68charger]

I have that exact model as well and it has always seemed to work fine. I now have a Mity Vac though and it works even better so I switched.

Troy

Troy,
On the one I pictured, is it as easy as

1. setting it up making sure the bottle is above the actual bleeder screw (as would be the case, starting from the farthest to nearest wheel)
2. pumping the brakes
3. monitoring the level of fluid in the bottle and master cylinder.
I don't put anything in the bottle initially. Fluid and air will fill the bottle and once all air bubble are out, it's done. Now, should I pump the brakes with all bleeders closed in order to "push" the air towards the bleeder screw?

[Troy]

It's got a one-way valve in it I believe so I don't think you even need to position it higher than the bleeder screw (although I usually do). I used to have a similar version without a catch bottle that you could just drop into a jar. I generally open the bleeder screw to the open air and let it gravity bleed for a few seconds first. Fill the master cylinder again and pump the brakes. Watch the hose/bottle for air bubbles. Keep pumping until the air is completely gone from the hose. Empty the bottle when necessary. Leave the hose/valve attached when you do this to keep the air/fluid from going back into the lines. I don't know if pumping the brakes with all the bleeders closed will accomplish much of anything in regards to where the air is. Fluid is cheap. I basically go on the assumption that I want the new fluid to travel all the way from the master cylinder to the bleeder which should carry/push the air with it. As long as the master cylinder doesn't run dry it should be pumping clear fluid so you're just emptying the lines of trapped air (trapped when you gravity bleed it).

Troy

[bull]

I bought one of those hand pump Harbor Freight bleeders and it's pretty much a POS. I've never gotten it to work right.

[Domino]

This is the one I got from autozone. 

You can't "pump the brakes" on a trailer, so you need a vacuum pump to do it right.

[dangina]

speed bleeders work great  - havent seen them for our cars yet
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/brakes.html

[hemi68charger]

Hey gang..
Well, got her done.. I used a combination of old and new. I used the old-fashion way of a jar with fluid and the hose submerged in it for the rears. The jar fit rather nicely perched on the leaf springs. The front, I used the one-man bleeder system I purchased. Worked out great. For those curious, I found some brake fluid used in Formula I racing applications. Being that the engine compartment of the Daytona can get rather hot in the Summer, I wanted the extra protection of durability of this performance fluid. It has a very high boiling point. Last year, the fluid would get VERY hot around the master cylinder.